Super Jamie

aaand from what i can find, turbo engines are totally different. the larger the exhaust the better, as the turbo wants as little backpressure as possible, so it spools up quicker. the way most people talk, it will make little to no difference if you hang a 3" or 4" exhaust off the end of a small turbo a supercharged engine is just to be treated as a larger capacity n/a engine. say a 2" pipe is good for a given size n/a engine, supercharge it and you could be looking at a step up to 2.5" or 3" (depending on the amount of boost you're running and the size of the engine in the first place) and they're hot when you touch them, so don't do it thats most of what i think about exhausts. google "exhaust theory" and draw your own conclusions :P

show them your thermofan shroud. it's the best i've ever seen

and as i have stated elsewhere, mufflers make an exhaust quiet, not the size of the pipe. i have a 2" press bent exhaust that is noisy as a motherf@$ker, and fook has a 2.25" mandrel exhaust that's actually very quiet, probably within ADR-compliant levels. my mufflers are probably empty

there's no general formula. because every engine has different flow characteristics. the intake is different, the manifold is different. the head is different. the combustion chamber and pistons and bores are different, the valves are different, so there's no exacting way at all you can say "this is how exhaust gas exits an engine". this is why getting tuned-length extractors made is somewhat of an artform, and expensive to have it done right, and to your requirements your "making a pipe wider" comment is correct, to a certain extent. if you put a 4" exhaust on your corolla, the gas would expand and cool and slow down and the engine would actually be working against all the slow dense gas sitting in the exhaust pipe, and your exhaust would flow like a pile of crap the trick is to find an exhaust size that allows the gas to flow freely throughout your rev range without making it too big to hurt power at low rpm or too small to hurt power at high rpm have a read of this http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcor...xhaustsizes.jpg

wow, it almost looks as good as project gotham racing, or as i like to call it, black-car-at-night-racing!!! seriously, that car looks gross

realistically, a piston or rod or rod bolt is going to give way long before a crank

its an oil longevity thing

i have a 2" exhaust and it's loud as f@$k. mufflers make an exhaust quiet, not the size of the pipe

one exhaust guy i talked to reckons the best thing you can do for your exhaust is to heat wrap the whole thing, this will keep temperature in the pipe and allow it to expel gases quicker, hence it will flow better bends are also a big no-no for exhaust. it's said that a T pipe in an exhaust (such as at the back of a mazda6) is as restrictive as THREE METERS of straight pipe as a general rule, "an exhaust is only as good as its first 4 feet". so spend your money on things like good extractors, dump pipes, catalytic converters, bends to under the floorpan, and the first muffler, don't worry about the rest of it so much, and things like exhaust tips

depending on who you talk to, backpressure is a good thing or a bad thing. david vizard (and old v8 and mini tuner, god of head porting) say the best exhaust is one with NO back pressure realistically, the hotter an exhaust can run, the better it will flow, as higher temperature particles move quicker than lower temperature particles. you make temperature higher by making the exhaust small, so the particles of air don't fly too far inside the pipe (instead of out of it) and maintain speed. but if you make your exhaust too small, it won't have enough volume to flow the maximum amount of air your engine can draw in, so you'll restrict the power

most of this is controlled by the exhaust manifold. a stock one doesn't do much, it gets the gases out so you don't choke, and is quiet so manufacturers can sell cars a tuned-length exhaust manifold (called headers or extractors) times the exhaust pulses into a collector so they help each other get out of the manifold quicker at a certain rpm, or more generally in a certain rpm rev range shorter manifolds are designed for high rpm applications, they give little torque as there is less backpressure in the exhaust manifold before the collector (into the rest of the exhaust). longer extractors are designed for torque, but they can restrict top end as there is alot of gas in the exhaust manifold (too much backpressure) at higher rpm

naughty nick 1 Engines 13:5

4 weeks after he "demonstrated" a "light" compression lockup, I did that one on the gold coast highway remember?! 5th gear back to 2nd from 100kph in a low geared ute - cause I thought it was first (Hey I was on my learners :P ) HAHAHA that's awesome, i did the same on my Ls, but from 4th to 2nd

no that's my hairy palms. i mean! um doh :P

i hope you want a windsor, not a cleveland

it's pretty well known that a factory engine fan and properly mounted shroud will cool better than any thermo fan. make sure all your hoses are going the right way, check the water pump isn't f@$ked or the belt slipping or too loose? a street motor is sposed to run a coolant temp of around 90C

and besides, how much boost do you want to run? stock pistons will take 6psi happily, 8psi for short periods of time, and 10psi kills them fairly quick

never checked other aftermarket manufacturers. when my engine machine shop couldn't work out my compression properly, they wanted to dome-grind the tops of my flat pistons down, so apparently that can be done but it's expensive. and you'd destroy your quench area which would suck

and i want a written report on my desk by tomorrow morning! :P http://www.users.bigpond.com/vidore/toyota_4age_engine.htm

we're serious. if you've ever driven a car with decent brakes you'd agree too. as stupid looking as they are, the brakes on a citroen berlingo are some of the nicest stoppers i've ever used, they must be huge

i know - we did this test in high school where you stop a ruler falling down a wall with your foot and put the measurement into a formula to get reaction time in seconds. everyone else is getting reaction times of like 0.12 to 0.13. mine was like 0.3something :P

set your timing to 10 or 12 on PULP, adding octane booster isn't going to help unless your ignition timing is advanced to take advantage of the slower burn of a higher RON fuel. some guys on oldcorollas reckon their cars go faster on regular unleaded with stock timing, than on premium with advanced timing

where did you get them made? surely not ray billeau?

except it's in england. and it has an anti bomb device, man the amount of times i've needed one of those :P hehehe. there's a century that gets around here with 20s and stuff, it's so pimp i love it

i'd forget the 3k bigport head and use a 4k head, you won't be able to get the low compression you require to reliably turbo such a motor, and a 4k head is newer and likely to be in better nick so you have to spend less reconditioning it, and the metal will be stronger acl don't do dished pistons as they were japanese import motors, not australian made there ARE motorbike forgies which can be made to fit a K motor. what they're from however, I have no idea. get the piston specs you need from the 3k/4k listing in the acl book and start trawling motorcycle piston catalogs