Taz_Rx

You DON'T need to swap the STRUTS. Only the calipers and rubber brake lines. Some NEW discs probably wouldn't go astray either. :y:

CT12 is the stock TWIN turbo from a 1ggtte CT12a is the stock TWIN turbo from a 1jzgtte Not too sure what a 1ggte turbo is, maybe a CT20!?

Cool cool. Wonder if I can get a copy on DVD before Targa..... then I can get him to sign it for me! :)

Anybody seen this yet? If so did you enjoy it? Have seen adds on monday nights (during top gear) for it for a couple of weeks, looks ok. A client just sent me a couple of free tickets for it so I might as well go have a look. :)

I think you're going to confuse the poor boy and there is a little mis-information here also. KE30 and KE55 calipers are interchangable. So remove sumitomo caliper and directly bolt on the Girlock. Disc diametre and offset is the same. Brake lines are slightly different though, so you have to swap them too. '55 has the flair in the end of the brake line, '30 has the flair in the caliper. You don't need to swap the backing plates. Towe001 - He's not looking at fitting '55 brakes to a RA60 strut like I think you thought he was. :) I'd also agree the RA60 strut/brakes would be a better option than '55 brakes. What are the issues preventing you from fitting these?

T3 (RB20) will be FAR too big for it. As too will the 13bt turbo - you'd never get boost with that. :( T25G is great for bottom end/torque. T28 for bit better top end. WRX TD04-L turbos are also a great option, thats why I had one. Good mid-range and top end flow, still using a small housing so bugger all lag, and steel wheeled so no restriction in boost like a T2X. :)

Great to see the old girl going again mate. :locked: Getting it on the strip again soon too?

Good day. Cruise out to bellignham turnoff was fun! :yes: As too the drive back home. .....just a shame all cars didn't make it home!! :locked:

$90 second hand, but un-used. :locked: Apparently $160 a set new.

I just bought some Tomei chrome moly pushrods!! :cool:

Is that your doing?

I don't think twishing the chassis either way would be a terribly great idea. The adjustment is probably more so to make it fit perfectly!?

Maybe you can elaborate a little more for us instead of acting like gods gift to rollaclub then!! :cool:

That thermo is going to do 2/10's of f@$k all!! You need to mount it hard up against the radiator cause at the moment it'll just be pushing air out between the gap. :cool:

Not as much as you might think. 5k would drive a hydraulic pump which does all the heavy lifting. They are only small forks. :cool:

Highly doubt it as the strut towers are further apart in the E7.

2x [posts above, his username is Josho. :cool:

Something I was email from Wolf AEM, thought it might be slightly relavent so chucking it up here. :cool: Hi Guys, We all know that increasing fuel pressure means you get more fuel per squirt right? Well that is mostly true. The first problem is, that as we increase the fuel pressure (using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator), the extra amount of fuel coming out of the injector does not necessarily increase proportionally. And this only gets worse as you keep increasing the pressure higher, and higher. The higher you go, the less of an increase in fuel flow you are achieving. The second problem is that you can end up with the fuel pressure on the back of the injector making it harder for the injector to open. This can cause idle problems. This is especially true with high impedance injectors where there is not a lot of injector opening current to overcome the fuel pressure on the back of the injector. Thirdly, you can have other problems such as less efficient injector spray, and injectors leaking when the engine is not running, but there is still fuel pressure in the rail. Now, this all depends on the type of injectors you are using, but the general rules apply. So, what is the answer? Make sure you have the correctly sized injectors to cope with the amount of power you are trying to achieve. DON'T just screw the pressure up more and more. If you are getting fuel pressure up to numbers like 55-60 PSI at idle, that may end up being a lot more by the time you are at atmospheric pressure, or even more under high boost pressure levels. Maybe take some advice from someone in the industry who has experience with a project like yours. It's far better to ask and get some solid advice, than it is to go the wrong way and end up with a substandard result. OK, that's it for now.

Would've had a passenger seat for you too buddy! :|

Here is the "Malaysian"...... actual location is Singapore whoops. http://stores.ebay.com.au/designguu I had a momentary brain laps though cause he has tail lights, don't know about wagz taillights though. If you want more info on the re-pro guards talk to Quinton, he fitted some to his ke30. They don't have any holes in them so its not a direct bolt on job. And while we're on the subject of poor replies Ed - your own flat-mate's username is Josho!! :|

Guy who owns it came round and asked me about turbo K's earlier in the week.

What have you got now Ed? Get Daim to bring the cressy too, he can race Casey on the way out! :|

If you considering new slugs then full balance the bottom end while you're at it. :|

SEARCH!!!!!!!!! This sort of question comes up at least once a month. Get some equations happening and do the math!! :| And for the record unless your 4k is a "twin squish" it would have flat tops to start with.

The Buick V6 of 4 cylinders!! :|