Taz_Rx

Nah wasn't overly loose. I was half expecting it would rattle its head off, but didn't at all!

He's not talking about the jack point. The sill has been dragged along something that has pushed it in, you can see a couple of scrapes there.

Nope. #3 not pulling its wieght probably explains it not running very well though! :P

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ABW-8-Way-Slide-Ham...A1%7C240%3A1318 :P

That bit with the 2x hose coming out of it is the ICS (idle control solenoid). If you're using an aftermarket computer then YES you can remove it (AM ECU probably won't run it properly anyway), then just crack the throttle like 1% percent to make it idle and re-calebrate the TPS. :P This is what I did with my 7ke TB, and just made a little plate to cover it.

Its an OH&S thing. We have the same issue with not being able to buy second hand scissor lifts, they all have to be brand new - which are obviously bloody expensive.

Surely you must beable to find one that's only 2"!?

Tried this on dirt last night. Got her hot, did a comp test and found 150, 150, 100, 150. Bumped the clearances up to .35 and .40 and did another comp test....... 160, 160, 100, 175!!! So yes it did give me a little bit more compression, but number 3 is obviously pretty un-healthy! :P Doesn't even rattle btw!

Fair enough! I just wish I could buy "my missus" a hoist for xmas, so thought he might be the same. :P We're sort of looking at houses at the mo, and she knows any prespective needs to have an adequate shed with the roof height required for a hoist. I'd ideally like a pit too, as sometimes its handy to be able to work under a car while still having it sitting on its wheels. Heavy gasses ......don't spoke in the pit! Water ........fit a bilge pump! Rodents ........buy a cat! :)

Good to hear you're getting her out a bit more then. :P Handling is probably the only thing I can have over you if we're not comparing straight line runs! :y: Have you done anything about brake upgrades yet? Thats the only thing really holding me back from having a good go on a circuit. Only really need to stop once in the box at a motorkhana! :)

Are you using etch primer on the bare metal? :P

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/efi-toyota-corolla-...A1%7C240%3A1318 :P Oh and 4ke and 7ke setups are completely different. 7ke is much better....that's why I'm using it. Pretty much any ECU could run either if its wired and tuned correctly.

Yeah the D5 is fine it the fact that it "works".......but have you noticed how you adjust it FFS!? And its fuel only, so getting something that will also control your ignition with boost retard will make a bit of difference.

Honestly the best person to talk to about an ECU would probably be Nick! He buys digi's off ebay all the time, so he might have something left for you.

Nah you're right....I make him look faster!! :) I love the sound of GTR limiters too. :P

Cool. I don't think there would be any point in making the TB any bigger than the piping you have, so yeah maybe look around for a 2" throttle body off something. All you would need is the TB with a TPS, or you might even be able to mod the 4ke one onto another TB. No big deal either way as they're easy to wire and calibrate. Just have a hunt around the wreckers one day with a tape measure and find something good, but cheap. Actually do you know if it uses an ICS (idle control solenoid)? gimme a pic of the throttle body area and I should be able to tell you. The first thing that I would up-grade in that setup though would be the ECU. Go up to atleast a Digi 1 or 2 with ignition control. :P

ID = Internal diametre OD = Outer diametre :P Also, what's the diametre of the piping between TB and SC, SC and inlet?

What have you currently got on it, just the 4ke one? Can you measure the ID of it?

Can't talk "dress-up" without a naughty nurse!!!! :P

If you mean the oil smoke in the other motorkhana, then thats actually a different car!! Thats "Dirt" the old NA shitter. :D Only tyre smoke comes from this car! :P

Try removing the vacuum hose of the brake boost, get somebody else to push the brake pedal in (push really hard) for you and hold it there while you put your finger over the inlet to the boost. Once you've sealed it with your finger they can release the pedal and this should create a vacuum in the booster, hence once you remove your finger you should get a pop/hish as air rushes into the vacuum. Try this a few times leaving your finger on it for a bit longer and this should give you some indication as to weather the booster is leaking. :'( Oh, and you have got your one way valve in the right way yeah?

I hate to tell you darl, but he's not buying YOU a hoist!!!! :'( ...but if the hat fits!! :P

3 times isn't too bad!!! :P Ausrotary had it re-posted about 15 times!!! :'(

You'll have to undo the join between the solid and rubber brake lines first, where it comes through the guard. Then when you try and get the rubber bit out of the caliper the whole rubber line can untwist itself. I'd also highly recommend getting yourself a proper brake line spanner. :P They are a 10mm ring spanner with a slit in the ring to get the bundy tube through. 8/10 times it you try and do it with an 10mm open ended you'll round off the head. :'( Here's a link so you kno what I'm talking about....... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AMPRO-FLARE-NUT-WRE...A1%7C240%3A1318

The valve sealing properly. :P I have a Camtech 609 in Dirt with stock valve clearnace!! I might try doing this today if I get time too! :'(