Taz_Rx

No its not fully disenguaging, this is why you can't get it into gear.

The 2" speco guages I have in Tar are like $20-$40 each from Bursons Leigh! :y:

Are you building a draw through SC setup? If so, why are you using a surge tank? As you don't need to!

Tiny turbo will cost you under $100. Fitting it will be at least another $500. :y:

Thats not a clutch!.... this is a clutch! :( Thats the next step up from yours - HDCB

Wouldn't use that T3 if I were you. :P Do you wanna be restricted to under 14psi?

Well mazdas have 4x110 like a ke10-20, not 4x100.

Just tuck a thermo into the '20 fan shroud. :P You can actually sometimes feel the increase in power (from reduction of mechanical load) from removing an engine fan and fitting a thermo. I know I did in my mazda anyway. When the thermo switches on there is then more electrical load on the alternator, but thats pretty much only in town when you can't use much power anyway.

KE55 and KE70 Girlock calipers are the same. Don't quote me, but I think '70 struts are also a bit longer.

:P Thought you might have a ke70 one as they're a bit different, but its not! That must be a really early one maybe!?

No worries mate, Happy to help. :P

That exact one was for an example. I bought a different (yet very similar one) that IIRC was for advertised as for a silvia. Fit my 7k fuel rail as well as at mates 20v fuel rail, so they're probably all much the same size.

Wouldn't know. Just get the to pull an oil filter off the sheft (or take one in) and get them off that. :y:

What heater hose in/outlets does it have where?

...not to mention that bolt on spacers are illegal in most states. :y:

Why? Much better wheel choice in 4x114.3 :y:

Yeah but if he swaps the pump - pulley and all he be right. If you try and cross over pulleys thats where you hit trouble. :y:

haha I've lost my lock nut befor. Well and truly shagged a couple of sockets getting the bastards off!! :y:

Was just about to say exactly that!! :y:

Start a wanted add for the cap and i'll reply there. :y: As for removing the fuel stain on the paint, just give it a cut and polish.

Umm,........and he may cause you some greif too!!!! :y: What Mikey has told you there is not complete correct, although he slightly touched on the problem. T series T50 (from TA22 and TE72) have a forward shifter position (like a ke30/55) and a 20 spline output shaft. A series T50 (from AE71 and AE86) have a rear shifter position (like a ke70) and a 22 spline output shaft. So if you were to put the T series T50 into an A series car you would need to change the spline on the tailshaft, and cut the hole in the trans tunnel further forward - possibly causing a world of greif with the lower dash!! Alternatively - Track down another A series T50 and it'll bolt straight in with no extra work. :y:

Yeah like duggy said ask for an "oil cooler sandwich plate". I've got a couple from bursons for $80 each. I think they're actually for a chev, but have the right diametre and thread pitch for a K - incase your parts man needs some help. :y:

Yes you could fine tune a little more with a aftermarket, but not neccessary unless you're boosting it really. Fit it where ever it'll go in the engine bay, needs to be on the return line from the fuel rail, and you'll have to remove the stock one and adapt something to run a hose off - like this.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SARD-Fuel-Pressure-...A1%7C240%3A1318

Yes just swap the dizzy, water pump and alternator over to the 5k. Just pull the dizzy out befor removing the motor and sit it on the guard. Just make sure its not 180o out when re-fitting.

K's don't really need oil coolers,...until you start pushing lots of power out of them or by heating the oil with other means, ie turbo. You can get an adapter plate which screws on under your oil filter, the one I have pictured below also has an inbuilt thermostat.