Taz_Rx

Yeah mounting bracket for a holley is pretty ordinary compared to a carter, its very similar to that on your coil. As coln72 illuded to, I personally would pick the carter as its self priming. If you want to force induct your motor (saw sc thread) you will need to do a bit more research into what pump to use. :)

You can modify a k series A/C bracket to mount a SC. :)

Nothing could be further from the truth!!! You'd be better off with a stock cam for a slightly worked motor. Duration is more inportant in a forced inducted motor. If you have too much overlap it'll just blow it all out the exhaust. Deffinately do yourself some research mate. :)

How come this one doesn't have a P then?... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=24113

....and you know what, the drivers side is the easy side I reckon! :hmm: Passenger side you've gotta stuff around with heavy guage wires for the starter motor and alternator to relocate the battery.

Are you talking about the "E"? That just means thats its the late square headlight KE55.

Yeah I got the impression that your family are pretty passionate about your cars. :y: Have many other gems have you all got stashed away? :hmm:

Yeah just some sort of cream polish. What exactly you use doesn't matter as much as prep sanding befor hand. :hmm: Clutch is good, I adjusted it a bit today so the release point is a bit further down as it has very little take-up. Is your expensive custom jobbie a button as well or just organic? I'll be hopefully putting my W50 behind my 7k soon, i'll let you know how I go with that. :y:

Think it was about $15 off ebay. They pop up on there every now and then, but normally about $40.

This seems to be a common problem as its happened to a couple of my cars, so I thought I'd do a quick 'how to' while I fixed mine as both were broken... Step 1. Use a dremmel to grind back whats left of the broken platic seat. Step 2. Sit a suitably sized washer over the hole so that its centred and hold it there. Step 3. Glue the washer to the plastic from behind. I'm using hot glue, but sickaflex would probably be better. Step 4. Use a black permanent marker to hide the washer as some of it can still be seen with the screw in. Step 5. Re-fit to car! :hmm:

:hmm: Normally the best turbo cam is a standard cam! :y:

shit I've forgotten you've got a kit too! Let s get to work on it dude! :hmm:

you should be able to use just a weber adapter plate to fit that to a toyota manifold! :hmm: You would have seen OLD-13H's (IIRC) turbo setup on AR.com using one of those injection setups?

:hmm: :y: :lol: at response

Pretty sure they'll be one in the motor as its a factory thing. All rota's run quite large oil coolers. :hmm: h

haha you a brave man admitting to being the creator of that thread!! :hmm: FYI - You have yourself a KE50, not a KE55. :y:

TE278U - You've given him a great description on how to time his motor, but thats not his main problem, as he doesn't actually know where TDC is!!!! 1, Remove tappet cover. 2, Remove #1 spark plug 3, wind motor over with 19mm spanner on crank pulley until you see #1 intake valve open. 4, keep winding it until the valve shut again (the engine is now on its compression stroke). 5, Carefully push a screw driver into the plug hole so it sits on the top of the piston 6, Find the point at which the screwdriver is at it highest, befor it goes back down again - This is TDC. 7, See if either of you timing marks are now on 0o. If not make a new one, and not matter what pulley/timing cover you have it will now be correct. :hmm: Then follow TE278U's instruction on how to time the dizzy. :y:

Among others? Haven't I seen one of you also driving a macco speacial interest Valiant as well?

haha yeah I had to take Daim up there to deliver all his engine parts to the builder. He actually said "...Sturgey lives along here somewhere."

They'll be coming soon mate. :hmm: I'll give the head gasket and clutch etc some grace period and then wind the boost up some more. Hopefully Loupee will want to swap me turbos soon and then it'll get wound up again!! :y:

Good :hmm: gunna take a little getting used to but its bighty as. Won't be too rough with it until I given it the chance to bed in a bit, but it definately not slipping on 10psi like the last one was. Its a bit noisey like the mazda one trying to slip it too.

thanks for the comments guys. :hmm: Ok here's some pics: New oil return line was one of the things done in this stint off the road. Now all turbo lines are speedflow/aeroquip. Can also see dump pipe and K-T bell and reduction starter motor...... In progress pic...... Completed engine bay. Gave it a quick polish, but could be a lot better...... And a couple of other randoms......

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz...¤t=100_2280.flv :hmm:

Diddo on this one..... http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=mSFggmz49Pk&...feature=related and less speed, but just slightly more momentum! :y: :hmm: .... http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=iHPZaJSO92w&...feature=related

If its ECU controlled ignition then the "computer side of things" can't be OK!!! Your timing issue is a mapping issue!!!! :hmm: I'm running 28o BDTC while on boost. We put 32o in it, didn't knock just made less power!