Taz_Rx

With an auto you probably want 3.7:1 or 3.9:1 What do you currently have?

Never really heard of a K timing chain fail. Remember most timing belts are rubber/canvis, so they're a bit easier to snap. You obviously need a new chain, but also get yourself a new tentioner and timing gasket set (maybe $80 for the lot). Take a little care pulling it off and you'll notice there is some dots on the crank, cam, gears etc that'll all line up. Yeah always do your valve clearances at TDC on EACH POT, not just TDC for #1. I always just wind it over with a 19mm, watch the intake valve open and close and give it anothe 1/4 turn or so. Valve clearances are 8 thou - inlet, and 12 thou - ex, while the engine is hot. :P

Have you ran toyota to find out if you can get a genuine oversize gasket? I was pleasantly suprised recently to find that a genuine 5k HG was only $40!!! :P Worth also mentioning that I'm running a 5k bottom end, 3kbp head, and a 5k head gasket! The bigger gasket still seals fine on the head, so maybe you could just use a 4k HG if the bore size is closer than a 3k! :(

I used to fly RC plane when I was in high school. I've got an OS 0.55 or 0.6 can't remeber, kicking round somewhere if you're intersted?

Sorry......I'll send her home then. :P

:P

Saturday 18th. Gates open 12pm, "qualifying" starts at 2pm, dinner break normally between 6-7pm and racing starts at 7pm.

Johno FTW stands for "For the win", no relation to.....

Been hanging to see some on-track footage of this car!! :P http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=JaAKOrOWV7Q&...feature=related http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=XQP9J1PPEqA&...feature=related Sound even better when he hold the throttle on a bit longer than the previous burnout vids. :(

:P :( :yes: Speaking of Lada's, there is actually a 'newer' one... http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=RqRxzIv8KZg Wouldn't mind if they test drove this one!! :D http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=k9m1zEU989U&...feature=related http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=TtU-w9f420o&feature=user http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=oEGKkUGECxU&NR=1

I'm heading out for Tar's EFI deput outing on the weekend! :P Anybody keen to come out and race or watch???

Do you own a tape measure!? Shouldn't be too hard to find a VL or R31 to see for yourself!! :wink: I'd imagine an RB30et would have about the same power output, if not less, than say an SR20DET. Which one of those 2 do you think will be more freindly towards your front suspension setup!? :) Its not just how much power/torque it put outs that you need to consider. Also other factors like "what do I want to use the car for"!!! :D

:wink:

Bigger needle and seat is not nessecary, but advised. Bigger jets will drain the fuel bowls quicker, so being able to refill the bowls just as quick is a good idea. :D Main jets were soldered and re-drilled a couple of times while on the dyno, so a little bit of mucking around but well worth it. Air correction jets also needed a little bit of attention. IMHO the $260 I spent on this dyno tuning session was WELL worth it. :wink:

Rx3 diffs are not very strong at all, they also have offset centres IIRC! If you wanted to upgrade to a mazda diff to retain the 4x110 then the strongest option would be a 13b RX4 diff (they're bigger than a 12a RX4 diif), but this would most likely need to be shortened a bit. I can measure an rx4 diff for width if you want as I put a 13b diff in my originally 12a RX4, but PM me if you want me to as I'll probably forget to check this. :wink:

The box wasn't nessecary, it was just the easy way out. Equal pressure on both sides of the carb, so I didn't have to really worry about sealing it up well. So yes you can just use a top hat, but re-kitting the carb would be a good idea. The 32/32 DTMR-A I was using was one I stole off my brother Fiat 128 sport L, which also shares its engine with an X19 (little ferarri looking things), but I also believe these were on some Alfasuds and other euro cars of the time. Jets were re-drilled with some dyno tuning, and the neddle and seats was swapped for a much bigger falcon weber one. Thats all that was done to that carby, which FYI has twin brass floats.

Get an MSD 6AL, and use the limiter as launch control. Mind you they are a 'soft touch' limiter so you probably won't get the fire balls you really want. :wink:

Your mate is not fully correct. :D Yes the floats can crush......but only under very high boost pressures (like over 20 odd psi). I have personally ran over 20psi on a 32/32 weber and not even had a problem!!! Solex what? Weber is your best bet. :wink: Also worth reading this..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418

I'm assuming this is all in your Bro's (Casey's) car not yours?

Yeah I'm deffinately keen for another one, just need a little more notice on a suitable weekend. Your electrical trouble is most likely the "on" power to the coil - through the ballast resistor. It runs on "start" because it has a seperate 12v circuit, but you might fry your coil pretty quick running it at 12v. Should be pretty quick and easy to diagnose with a test light. You might have even snapped the ballast resistor, as its just a spring like coil inside that ceramic.

Ah, I for got about the power strap that goes from the main motor terminal to the solinoid. If your starter motor doesn't have this them the red one is probably another permanent power for the solinoid only!

Started watching a bit of Bathurst at a mates house yesterday. Decided it was too nice a day (aparently 24o - for the first time since like march/april) to be sitting inside watching TV, so me and a mate went finishing......again! 3 time this weekend! hahaha. Took tar out for one of its first long drives, ran faultlessly all day!! :D Made it back to Launy from Bellingham in just over 30 mintues!! :) ....I love advans. ;) Drags are on this weekend. Wanna do a few passes with this turbo befor I upgrade very shortly and see where I'm at. Took a guy for a run Friday night, his response to a run through the gear was ".....what is 13's"!!! (double jepardy) :wink:

Which car is this? ke30 or ke55? To tell the truth I've never had a corolla with 3 wires to the starter motor! :wink: Mazda only has 2 as well. Are you sure one of them isn't for the alternator?

You'd you go? Break anything else? hehe

Again.....its good you already know how a realy works. Starter motors have an internal relay. The big wire which should be the red one is infact a direct power from the battery, and always has power - for this reason its best to disconnect the battery befor working on a starter motor. The other smaller black/white wire is the "start" position trigger. There is no earth wire as the starter motor earths itself through the gearbox/engine block, but it doesn't hurt the have another earth strap somehwere in this area to the chassis. When you turn the key to "start", it triggers the SM's internal relay spinning the main motor, while also powering the solinoid to through out the gear. If the small black/white wire is broken disconnected then nothing at all will happen. If the big red wire is broken/disconnected you should still hear the click of the internal relay and solinoid, but the motor will not spin. :wink: