Trev

When you say that they have a fwd gearbox is this because they also came out awd? Love the pics above especially African AE82's.

Madness, I love when Africans join, cars are always slightly different to what we have here.

I have worked with a lot of big name ecu's (link, apexi, motec, haltech, adaptronic, greddy & microtech), If you want a good reliable ecu that is easy to deal with and is not overly expensive then go for the Haltech, if you have a fair bit of money to throw at an ecu then go with a motec. I wouldn't bother with any of the others but that is my opinion.

You should never let a car idle for long periods of time with the radiator cap removed, this allows localised boiling to happen sooner, 10 minute bursts should be efficient to remove air from the system. If it comes to it getting to hot then put the cap on and turn the car off for a while.

Just buy an Estima :P

I loved this in Gran Turismo 2.

I would rather pay for towing fees then another engine after an accidental stuff up. I had to pull the engine out of car (owner is on ae86dc, well his brother atleast) after it's first dyno run because when they built it they used the wrong oil pump gasket and then engine was knocking, turned out to just be that they stuffed up doing the flywheel bolts up and the flywheel came loose. Shayden: You are going to have new cams that will need to be run in, best thing to do is to let the tuner sort it all out for you, he will put it on the dyno, set the loading to 2000rpm which will load the engine bedding in the rings and the cams.

Raven on here was doing a memorial build but I think he sold it.

I have never done it but from the info I have seen you need to use the AE92 GTZ rear mount. The standard 20 box would have been the C56, the C56 has a shorter ratio then the E58. EDIT: gear ratios for your convenience:

I love when people do this sort of thing :y:

Fixed your link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_Cc9gQ2vC0

After spending that much money I would be just getting it towed and leave it all up to the tuner to do.

12a bridgeport.

He might have blown it up if it never worked for him.

So you are going to try to drive it untuned? JASMA? why not, I have one of their turbo manifolds and the work is very impressive, sure if you have $1000 to spend on cams then get some HKS shafts. Before anyone says 'but JASMA is an exhaust regulation' I am talking about JASMA and not JASMA

PICS...

Early bigport will go fine with no o2 sensor or cold start injector. Have you tried doing a diag on it to see if any codes come up? Hard to say without looking at it but I would say electrical.

You get a new pod? I didn't even notice the wheel, I looked and thought 'hmm wheels are the same' Will have to get the hub off the other car and get it onto this one or get another wheel stud. Just let me know when you need me over there.

The problem you are going to face right off the bat is that you have an engine with no tune so it will need to be tuned before you can do anything with it but this also comes with a positive, the dyno tuner will lightly tune the engine to 4000 - 5000rpm and will do most of the run in on the dyno for you, you will then be required to drive it around for approx 1000km to let the engine settle in and then take it back to have it tuned to make power. When I build an engine I generally keep it under 4000rpm, try to labour the engine as much as possible and keep it off boost, a few pound won't hurt but don't go giving it to it. Also to mention, new cams will need to be run in, who is building the engine? As for cam choice, I was going to buy HKS shafts but I have recently been looking at these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JASMA-Camshaft-264-272Deg-Levin-Trueno-4AGE-4AGZE-16V-Stage-2-/120774641075?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1ebac5b3#ht_2361wt_952

Nothing wrong with a 4ac, if the one in the mrs car didn't let go then I would still have one in there, best upgrade is a set of extractors (can be quite costly for them and rare, only set I have seen IRL was a set I had), another carby if you think it is necessary as the one on them is fairly good and give it a good service - plugs, fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter. Also check out the ignition leads, cap and rotor to make sure they look good, another thing to look at (if you have the standard air filter) is to see if the cold air intake switch is working, when the engine is cold vacuum is applied to the cold air intake valve on the filter intake, the air filter then takes warm air from the hot box on the exhaust to aid in cold starts, when it (the engine) warms up the switch 'should' close up and allow the valve to bring in cool air. Get the engine up to temp and pull the vacuum hose off and see if it is sucking, if it is then the switch is buggered. Let me know if you are unsure what I am talking about and I will post up a pic.

Just realised you have a KE, thought you meant the original A series auto, you will need the AE71 A40D.

The original auto is a direct bolt up and yes it will need some beefing up.

Nice edit.

And here we were being told that there is no such thing as a purple monkey dishwasher...

Put a light weight oil in it, you can buy a straight 50 gear oil that will suit it, mine use to only crunch at rpms over 7k so I just learnt to drive it a bit slower.