Trev

Bit hard to tell by the pics but they look like MK2 cortina doors.

Yeah the end is definitely chewed away, I got you a pic today (Chery shaft so same same but different):

No, they are slid on (sometimes requiring a hammer and punch) and a circlip on the end of the shaft holds it, the section that has the cut out goes onto the shaft 1st, got any pics of the shaft?

All depends what car it is, some require it off, some require it running in park or neutral and others want it running and in gear. Which joint, inner or outer?

ok, where are you located as I work at a cv joint.

Was this before or after the other ecu install? I don't know if the avalon has a BCM but if it does then I would say it would need to be reset by toyota.

Anticlockwise removal, better off undoing the hub from either one of the locations on the bottom (ball joint nut or ball joint bolts), turn wheel to the left to get more outwards room on the hub and pull it out and off of the cv joint. Now turn the wheel to the right so that the hub is out of your way. Now you can pull the shaft out, (if it is a manual you will lose gearbox oil, auto's are normally fairly good unless someone has ovr filled them) if you have the 6 bolt flange then undo that, if you have the splined bell then do the followin - put a pry bar between gearbox and driveshaft bell and force it out. What is the reason for needing to pull the shaft out?

The 4k uses 2 rocker cover breathers, the one at the back of the engine goes to manifold vacuum, the one in the middle goes to before the throttle body preferably as close to the air filter as possible.

$800 to reco your gearbox and you think it is expensive?

Yes, a worn centre bearing can make the shaft bounce around.

Also toyota red.

I hope the car is the only thing that gets cut :lolcry:

Why hasn't anyone mentioned to remove the gasket and use silicone instead? Are you sure it is coming from the sump and not comeing from the oil filter head and making it's way around the sump?

Holden Astra etc.

Check the radiator level.

Mrs 82 was doing the same thing but it was more so when you put it into reverse, I ended up finding that the insulation on the power wire from the EFI fuse was worn away from the pod and every time it would go into reverse the engine would jump forward and short the wire between the pod and earth. You may have a faulty sensor on the engine, maybe take it somewhere and get it scanned.

How? The starter is driven onto the flywheel which the clutch engages on, if the clutch is stuffed then the started won't matter. I bet that the radiator or trans cooler was never replaced with the auto change, when n auto shits itself it normally sends filing all the way through the oil passages (radiator and or oil cooler), if you replace the auto and none of the other components then you risk contamination. And don't forget that a lot of the internal components are submerged in the fluid so any servo's or pistons will get metal contamination.

This is supposedly an 86 vertex kit fitted:

Build looks good. Also don't get why people think that Lloyd started a trend, 1uz's have been going into corollas for years.

Yeah true man.

No worries man, just glad to see it is all sorted. :2thumbs:

2ac and 4ac are the same, 4age is different.

No it is having alternator troubles, battery went flat.

It does and you can make it a lot cheaper if you go to a welding shop and buy MIG earth cable.

Yes, ke70 K50 and the A series T50 has a different base to what you have and only a single ball but are you sure that is the reason for the slop?