Felix

i would have thought that for cruising the car would go into closed loop mode and run off the o2 sensor readings, and trim the mixtures to stoich. is the o2 sensor working ok? was there an air temp sensor in the old airbox which is now disconnected? tested the ecu for error codes? i have a nova/ae92, it is only a 4afe, but it has a temp sensor in the airbox.

not totally sure. mine has the center console, an under dash tray, radio, trip meter, the brown rimmed (fake woodgrain wheel), deluxe badges, and fancy embossing on the front seats.

hey Trev. ask your mate if he'd want to part with it in a while. not overly in a rush to buy a motor yet. have other bills coming up of more importance, also want to get my Nova going. crap i have laying around i could use for this thing are: kings low ke2x springs, HD front shocks, rear 1 1/2" lowering blocks, some new urethane bushes for the leaves. healthy worked dished 4k with high lift 256 deg 3k-b grind cam, 4-2-1 extractors. SC14, blowthru 32/34 DMTT weber, modded holley blue fuel pump (good for 30psi), malpassi rising rate fuel reg, modded bigport head. also have carter fuel pump, twin aisans, and twin SU's. electronic 4k dizzy, MSD. selection of diff ratios...4.2, 4.3, 4.5. mazda 13" steelies, yoky A539s (from SJ's ke25), ke30 discs, ke55 discs. plus also other stuff i have probably forgotten about. pretty much the most important things to concentrate on are the bodywork, paint, windscreen rubbers, dashpad, and hoodlining.

Pinky lives!

i think that may be Demuires (Fooks) old ke55. he converted it to round headlights, and a tacho dash amongst other things. it had like a pink pearl over the red body colour.

think i have seen that recently actually. stands out, but i can't think of exactly when i saw it. yours?

not so sure about the flares and rims thinking about it to start with. that can always happen later on after it is on the road. maybe i'll just use up some of the crap i have laying around. :P tuesday arv while the missus was out picking up the kids etc. i got a phone call from her boss....he says he had a customer in at their work who wanted to know who had the corollas he'd seen parked there, as he had one he wanted to get rid of. i got the guys number and gave him a call. he says the thing is just cluttering up his shed and he needs it gone. he thought he'd rather it go to someone with an interest in corollas than the wreckers. i went around not expecting much, but was pleasantly surprised. cost me a tow. :P

if you have the original factory rebuildable oil filled struts at the front you can dismantle them and experiment with thicker oils. you can use motorbike fork oil and hydraulic fluid of varying weights. normally with after market shocks, the original strut innards are tossed when new inserts are put in. the original style ones are probably not that commonplace but some cars still have them.

LOL, the gash pad is a bit screwed. thinking maybe a 2t or 2tg for starters? already have a set of mikunis with manifold to suit a pushrod 2t. not sure yet. plenty more room to fit something bigger than a K series in compared to a ke1x. wouldn't mind a set of te27 flares, then bug my mate to get my old neales wheels back, 15x7 and 15x8's. fat levin style exterior, stocko interior. see what happens. it's not to bad, the guards are the worst of it. shouldn't be to hard to repair. i didn't find it, the car found me. :)

yesterday i acquired a ke25, it is a 73 deluxe auto. it came as a rolling shell with no motor or box. the shell is pretty much rust free, with the only rust i've found being in the bottoms of the front guards and a bit on one side under the radiator support panel. the bottom of the doors and rear guards are excellent rustwise. needs a bit of panelbeating and a paintjob. the interior is pretty good. needs a hood liner, dashtop, and carpet. otherwise it is pretty overrated. anyway here's some pics:

i'd be too scared to drive a flashy car hard. not to mention scared to let my kids near it. keyers.... ever seen what a kid on a pushie with crapped out handle bar grips can do?

go buy an old EH holden or something. they will damage their doors before yours. LOL. when we had our EH, the place we lived at had a besa block shed. one day my missus stuffed up reversing and hit the door frame, she cracked the wall and only put a minor dent in the bumper. geez it made some noise. :) we later sold that car to my brother. he rear ended a new magna, destroying it and writing it off. the EH was a bit battered and dented, but he drove it for another 18 months or so after without even touching it after the accident. didn't even break the headlight. :S it did crack the indicator lense though.

go find someone who does porting in conjunction with a flow bench.

maybe the shocks are screwed? decent shocks slow down the onset of bodyroll. urethane D and link pin bushes for the swaybar are a good upgrade for anycar.

28/36 DCD webers are very good. i ran one on a warmed over 4k with a 25/65 cam, extractors and exhaust for 3 1/2 years in my ke15. went really well, gave 35mpg and upset dozens of v6 drivers. my DCD had 25 mm primary and secondary venturis in it when i had it on the 4k. the venturis are replacable, making the DCD the most tunable 2 barrel asynchronous downdraft carb out there. 26mm primary and 27mm secondary venturis work well on a warm 5k. the foam filters are fine so long as you look after them and change the filter element if it dries out. usually you will get 2 years of use before you need to replace the foam. make sure you wash it out with soapy water. do not use petrol or it will rot prematurely. i know from experience. DGV weber filters are easily adaptable to a DCD with minimal mods.

had a similar thing happen recently to our ke16. the blinkers were playing up and the high beams refused to work. ended up that there was a heap of brass/copper dust through the combo switch from the horn button contacts. compressed air and a bit of a cleanup fixed it.

not 2mm..... there is a 5mm difference in pin height between K and A series. at TDC a 4AGE piston would sit 5mm down the bore from the block deck. most likely would need longer rods. look at the ACL website for piston, ring, bearing, and gasket catalogs.

was a simple bolt up. i used 4k rocker gear. the 3k pushrods if anything are a touch to long and the adjusting screws originally just touched the underside of the rocker cover with a .400" lift cam. 5 minutes with a dremel remedied it.... i have a set of k (1100cc) pushrods (about 2.5mm shorter) to put in one day when i can be bothered. no i didn't, neither did Pete who had the lifters in his engine. if you look at the normal k/3k/4k solid lifters you will see that they have large oil feed holes in them. another alternative would be to get the lifter bores of a 5k sleeved down to take the earlier k/3k/4k lifters. this would be good as the earlier lifters are cheap, lighter and far more common.

yea, i know where you are coming from. what you need to do is get a set of guards and cut out the wheel arches, lower them and weld them back in with a filler panel above. a bit of rooting around, but it would make the car look a lot lower, but enable better handling at the same time.

a 4k and 5k crank are the same. with the lifters i wouldn't bother changing to solids unless you want to make peak power at 8grand or more. all you need to do is get the rocker posts skimmed by the reduction in the radius of the base circle diameter when your cam gets reground to maintain hydraulic lifter preload. that said, i have converted solid lifters in my 5k. by converted i mean they were hydraulic originally, but had the circlip removed and the guts ripped out. then the upper pushrod seat was dropped down to the base of the emptied out lifter. this cost zero dollars, and worked for at least 2 years in a mates club engine before they found their way into my street 5k which has been going strong for about 18 months now without a problem. i run a ported 5k head with 3k pushrods. most of the guys who have converted to chev solids seem to have had problems of sorts (i can think of at least 3 guys offhand) and have had time off the road and had to spend extra $$$.

when i had my ke30 i cut the springs on it, but not quite to the extent of yours. i used to get them to rattle quite a bit, but then again i was a pretty wild driver. used to kane it on dirt roads and get it airborne on a regular basis. :jamie:

don't your springs rattle? they wouldn't be captive, or do you have them cable tied in?

you guys sound like a bunch of pathetic primary school girls. :D

for 20 grand i could paint my ke15, ke16 and 2 x ke10's, with new rubbers. also i could do brakes, interiors and suspension on all of them. plus i could further upgrade all the drivelines.... that is 4 cars.

unfortunately there is no point having a flashy car unless you have the insurance policy to match....