ke70dave

yeah it will spit out water and carry on. just keep filling it up so you can see the level, and keep idling it. i did this exact same process on my mates s13 yesterday, we had coolant all over the ground by the end of it, and used probably an extra 1L of fluid, but we got all the air out. we idled it for about 20-30mins. watched the thermostat open and close a few times. then when you reckon youve got all the air out, fill it up to the brim, fill up the overflow bottle, put the cap on the rad, and take it for a spin.

edit: altezza is quick! yep pull it off, if you are only using a gasket (no silicon), it shoudlnt need time to set before filling up with coolant? when you pull off the thermostat housing, make sure both surfaces that the gasket is going to be touching are VERY clean and FLAT. i usually do this with a flat file, rub the surface back and forwards to make sure the whole surface is flat. Any imperfections on the surface and it wont seal with a gasket and just leak again.

mmm i like treble, if its nice and smooth treble. but generally its harsh horrible treble. no thanks! yeah ive seen PC3 a few times before, all been simliar, but a few times on a much bigger stage (and i much further back). mmm well they had no problem with the snare drum on saturday, few SM57 microphones took care of that.....once again CRANKED through the PA. competing with the bass guitar, and apparently turning them both down wasnt an option. yeah could be the ipod thing, i guess when you are using the AWEFUL headphones supplied with ipods, the only option to attempt to make it sound better is to crank it.

that is some pretty impressive work there, and some very impression destruction! i would be inclined to get a cheap 2nd hand aftermarket ecu, run the factory 4age distributer, get a few coils from somewhere (even use the factory one perhaps?) then get the ignition tuned on a dyno. i know people have success with these little ignition boxes or running fixed advance. but its not ideal, and you arent in complete control of the ignition curve.....and i don't like not being in control... depends how good you are at the electrical/programming side of things.

So i have started this thread, to get everyones oppinions on the current trends associated with live music. First off, i consider myself to be an enjoyer of music. From classical music to alternative rock, i enjoy a bit of every genre. I always have music going in the car, at home, the ipod is the first thing packed when going no train or plane trips. I Just enjoy music. I also consider myself a bit of a snob when it comes to audio gear and audio quality, i just hate low quality sounding music. i have some nice audio gear, headphones etc, and am currently building up a decent set of speakers for home use, coupled with a decent amp should be nice. I have also done a reasonable amount of sound mixing for live productions, admitedly amateur stuff (christmas/easter concerts and musicals at church, using a 48ch digital mixing desk etc), so i do consider myself to have an ok ear as to what i think sounds good and enjoyable when mixing instruments/voices together, though I'm sure some disagree, but i don't get too many complaints! haha. Now we are done with the background info, what is going on with live music? A few examples. I attened a concert on saturday night just gone, a very popular christian pop/rock band, "Paul colman Trio" is the band. Hit up the youtube if you want to give them a listen. Been around for around 12yrs. concert was alright, except for the unbelivable level of bass. I was about 2/3 from the front. The bass was sickening, the roof was shaking, my ears were shaking, my stomach was shaking, i was not enjoying the concert at all. now if you have a listen to a few of their youtube vids (the song "dip" a good example), they are relatively mellow sounding - i guess softish rock, but the sound guy managed to kill it with a rediculous level of bass. It was cranked. Another example, went to see U2 at the end of 2010. the support act was 'Jay Z'. Was at the sydney olympic park stadium, we were a fair way back, probably 2/3 from the front.. the bass from jay Z's sound was so loud that i walked out of the stadium (to the merchandise area) and asked everyone i could (including the medical staff....) if they had any ear plugs. Of course none had any. And i belive i am now a little bit more deaf from that ~30min set of horendous noise. howeever when U2 came on, the sound was fantastic. loud yes. But balanced. Just enough bass to make it sound awesome. The problem with excess bass seems to be even more evident at music festivals where the smaller stages are perhaps inside smaller buildings or marquees. Where no matter where you stand in the marquee, the noise is just completly excessive, and the bass level seems to be about 6x louder than the rest of the noise spectrum. and midrange sounds seem to be non existant. Now I'm not saying i don't enjoy loudish music, i don't mind it at all. but i enjoy good quality, well mixed music that is enjoyable to listen to, and wont make me deaf. Not loud music that wil make your ears bleed and you can't even hear the backup singer over the bass guitar. so my question to everyone is, why does live music have to be so damn loud, and more specifically so damn bassy? what happened to producing high quality sounding balanced live music, which is just enjoyable to listen to? and doesnt mack you cringe everytime they reach for their bass guitar. or alternatively, do people agree with me? or are you happy to put up with the current trend of horendously loud, unbalanced, bass heavy, mid range lacking loud music? rant over!

It's the same as any engine.....get air in and get it out. 4ac-powered.forumotion.com/ This had some good info, though I don't recall it all being private..

does it have a cold start injector?

i hate to admit it...but i watched "brides maids" the other day, and the main character drives around a trueno ae86 coupe, comes up quite a bit.

ive driven an 86 with VERY low springs and sierra shocks absolute GARBAGE. not even for a drifto mobile....rubbish. for springs around the 4-6kg range, on the cheap, i recommend the wagon commondore shocks (KYB part number 343113). very good shock and a nice length, keeps the springs captive but allows for a good amount of suspension droop. also check this out on ebay atm: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/used-Toyota-Corolla-KE70-AE86-Sprinter-Koni-Yellow-suspension-Struts-Brakes-/180785015990?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a17a06cb6 those konis are the good stuff, check the lengths etc, but they might be a bargain at that price, would need a rebuild though.

hmmm well...the reality is....you gave no information on what you want, no indication on what you had already discovered from your research (have you put "ke30 engine conversion" into google?), no indication of how much cash you can spend..... you could spend 200 bucks and put a 4k, which will give you a few extra ponies.... 600 or so bucks on a 5k efi and get a pretty neat little car... or you could spend 10,000bucks+ and put in a highly strung 3sgte with the brakes and suspension to match.... see what i mean? a few more details and we can help. you will find that most people will put about the same amount of effort into their reply, as the starter of the thread puts into the first post....

so you mounted the throttle cable to the chassis? whats gonna happen when the engine moves around? isnt the throttle gonna move? i'd undo that mod...

Ring the engineer tomorrow, and get a definite answer. Don't stuff around....

Save your cash and buy a rego'd not so rusty runner.... I bought a junker as a project car for 400bucks, masses of work and a lot of cash (+~700) to get rwc. Should have just spent 1100 on a rego'd one and then done mods from there... It sounds great buying a project car but its only a ke70 corolla they are all the same, so at least buy the best base you can afford. Edit- just had another look....not as bad as I thought. Might be alright.

Mmmm internal clutch slave is cool. Only down side is if it needs attention the box has to come off.....but surely that can't be very often if you do it properly the first time. I never had an issue with the oem extractors.....

young People (generally born around 1990-92...) who feel a need to have their own personal sound track to their life, that everyone can hear, emitted from a mobile phone with excruciatinglevels of trebel, whilst in public places such as public transport and shopping centres. what makes them think that i want to hear this? or the rest of the people going about their own business. in supercheap auto yesterday, some muppet walking around on his own, with his mobile phone in his pocked blaring away some rubbish music, then joins the line in front of me (prolly 10ppl in the line) phone still blaring away while BEING SERVED.....and then walks out...to his own soundtrack. i just wanted to go up to him and say "hey mate you know your phone is rinning yeah?", but thought the better of it.... Even if my phone legitimately starts ringing in a public place (ie the checkout line) i try and turn it off/answer it as quick as possible.....there is enough noise polution in this world as it is!

nankang ns2's are surprisingly ok for the price. had them on the s15 for a while, i mean there was no grip when you put your foot down they are not a performance tyre ta all, but there was plenty of grip for normal driving especailly in the wet. plenty of places sell those crappy tyres, "bosman tyres" at archerfield is another one. i had some cheapo things on the rear of the ke70, epicly slushy side wall, felt like was driving on jelly! but at under 90bucks each (195/50R15), not bad to get me out of trouble when needing 2 tyres for cheap. i think alot of the time its a very simliar tread patten to decent branded tyres so they look good!, but they use rubber that has the road adhesion properties of a thumb tack.

i think you are getting way to obsessed wtih fuel economy....... you can't expect less than 7L/100km from a 20yr+ old engine. keep your foot off the loud pedal and any engine will be fuel efficient. FR vs FF drivetrain losses.....bugger all difference. FF they have a gearbox and differential as well you know. FF higher compresion ratio? what? forget diesel, too slow, and sound bloody aweful. 7k EFI is a good choice.

you could go with a remote resevoir setup on the clutch master. you will still need the piston on the firewall, but mount the resevoir up out of the way, just make sure it is higher than the clutch masteryclinder. this is about the only decent photo i can find. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/forum_images/TechExchange/dazecarsHydroClutch/pic7.jpg you can see the clutch master under the brake master, and the clutch master resevoir over to the left with a pipe attached. edit: the VT commondore uses a remote resevoir, here is a photo http://www.onlinebrakeparts.com.au/images/Cylinders/OBP-HCMC9640.jpg so perhaps compare the internal diameter of that master with the S13 one, and if its pretty close use that and get a resevoir from the wreckers to attach to the master. buy a brand new clutch master, or get a 2nd hand one reconditioned. shoulndt cost more than 100bucks total.

something i forgot to mention....i don't know how much truth there is too it.. but there was a rumour going around that K series crossmember + rb20 (r32 skyline) engine mounts is a bolt in for the Ca18. another rumour was that this worked but made the engine sit quite hight... link to rumour. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/14051-nissan-ca18sr20-det-into-ke70/page__st__30 and look i even posted in that one, in 2007!

edit: read 7shades post.... hmmm could be a bitsa.... if so it takes all the good bits off all the cars, and puts it in one package... quad lights, full chrome non "smile" (ta22) style bumpers. come to think of it the quad lights do look set back a far way in the front end, sort like my old ke70 was with the hacked in quad lights..... i know where it lives now, so ill drop past again this arvo for more photos :P

so the original photo i put up. is an RA24 with the full chrome bumper? (no plastic engine caps). the original car also has full chrome rear bumper, no plastic end cap. damn never realised there were so many variants. WTB: RA24 with full chrome bumpers.

so this is a ta40 (awesome looking line over the back wheels (simliar to the TA22), and smaller rear quarter window, and 4 x round lights) http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3261/641/8150320021_large.jpg and this is a RA40? (ugly as front end, boring rear quarter window, normal looking rear wheel arch) http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/98479796.jpg/sr=1

yeah you would need to replace the dizzy with some sort of electronic pick up device (ie a crank angle sensor, maybe even use the standard pickup in the dizzy, and cut the rest off....), then a minmum of 2 coils (for wasted spark), an iignitor of some description (you could make one using some high powered electronics, or use one off another car), then someway of getting the signal from the ecu to the ingitors telling the coils when to fire. and if you can get all this to work with the factory ECU you would be doing very well. maybe could be done, but would take alot of thinking, and probably just alot easier to buy a 2nd hand aftermarket ecu... alternatively weld a box into your firewall for the dizzy to sit in. or you might be able to beat it enough to make it fit......

really? i just googled ra40 coupe and all i find is ugly quad square headlight'd cars.... exhibit A: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/36939-ra40-celica-coupe-1980/ or are you saing those roundlights arent factory to that particular car? it looks really cool driving along the road, i want it.

on the fuel efficency front... the only way a 1.3L carby or 1.6L EFI engine is going to have bad fuel efficiency, is if it is stuffed, isnt tuned correctly, or there is a stuffed sensor that is causing the EFI system to crap itself. all efi systems go rich when there is a problem, because rich is safe. my stocko 4k got less than 10L/100km my 4age got less than 8L/100km, ALOT less on the highway, was freakin' awesome fuel economy for the power available. the 4afe is not a bad engine, and would suit RWD perfectly...if it didnt have a distributer hanging out the back of it. somewhere in here is a 4efe rwd conversion, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/37105-greenmacs-other-ke/page__st__555 very simliar to the 4afe, as it has the distributer out the back as well....