ke70dave

Something wrong with your car if you are getting bad fuel economy in a 2007. A cold air intake wont help.

Have a look at similar weight cars that are slightly more modern. Ke70 recommended 26 all round I think. I'd start there and see what it feels like.

Ah yup, when you do the math it doesnt look that much different Interestingly i have a 3.45 ratio in the BMW, and i was thinking of swapping it to a 3.7 or 3.9....My gearbox must be much taller ratios as with the 3.45 at 100 km/h i'm only at 2100 rpm.

if money is no object go for it, If it were me id ring some wreckers and pickup a second hand hood. being a relatively young car you might even find one in your color in usable condition that you can just bolt straight on. To answer your question, most aftermarket hoods i have seen have bolted to the factory hinges.

ah yup. Will be interesting to see how you like it with a longer ratio.

What ratio was in it when I drove it?

Says the guy who lives in Hobart!

Most people don't bother with AC when doing engine conversions, and here is why.... Once you start talking custom you can put your AC compressor anywhere you like, and where you like is going to be where it fits. AC gets very expensive very fast, even just fixing oem stuff. just got a quote to fix the work ute AC and it was almost 1500bucks. Even just a re-gas was $350! Also the compressor is just the start of your troubles. here is how i imagine the install going: -fit 1uz and gearbox, make exhaust fit as well as cooling system, make the car drive on 1uz power. -find a place to put AC compressor -make sure your chosen place allows for the pulleys to line up and a suitable length belt to be used. make sure your pulley ratio is the same as what the compressor came from. -see if you need to make a belt tensioner while you are at it -figure out weather you can reuse an existing bracket, or make something totally new -figure out if the AC condensor from the ke70 will work with your chosen AC compressor -figure out how to mount the AC radiator -figure out how to mount the accumulator -figure out how and where to get custom hard piping made up for all of this, All your items need to be mounted very robustly, so the new piping doesn't move and get damaged. have a look at an OEM AC install, lots of beutifually made hard piping with very nice bracketry to go with it. you do not want the piping moving or touching anything. -figure out where to mount your expansion valve, make sure it is going to work with your franken AC. -Wire it all up -get it filled with gas and enjoy AC. I would buy new AC components unless you pull them from a running working AC. AC stuff does not like sitting around. On a side note, it might be worth looking into what aftermarket AC systems hot rodders put in their cars, jay leno is always talking about "vintage air" on his videos which is some american mob. I'm sure someone in Australia does something simliar for the hot rods here. All of the above is still going to apply, but you might be able to buy a kit that all comes with it. I believe it replaces the whole fan box in the cabin too.

Haha, I didn't get any car things..... But someone is going to see Jerry Sienfeld live in August...... me:)

Hey who you calling over 30! I got another 6 months before i fall into that category. I got no legal issues with my car (although the rear tyres are getting close, few months left), but those party lights really do make you feel like a guilty criminal.

That might be a good option. A nice modern CAS to get things reliable. I also had evil thoughts of looking out for the 2.5L engine, loom and ECU and doing up the 2.5L from the 325i. the later model (88-1991?) engines run a motronic system which is a digital ecu (ooooh modern), as well as a different distributor that allows the spark to be ecu controlled (similar to the 4age bigports). Basically a bolt in afair and to the uneducated the engines basically look the same. just a more modern design overall. This is all dreaming stuff as i got no room for that yet. but the 2.5L on oem ecu factory power is ~20hp more than my current setup but they don't come up for sale too often and people want a few bucks for them. For the time being the 2.3L is suiting me fine I had a highway patrol police car pull an illegal u-turn last night and pulled in behind me. I was waiting for the party lights, but they never turned on. Followed me for a few blocks and i could see her checking stuff on the computer. Followed me for maybe 10mins through suburbia, then i checked the mirror again and she was gone! must have pulled down a side street. Guess i'm too old to harass now:(

The big question is how does littleredspirit live with the start bar at the top of his computer screen?

yeah i think id be better off with windows xp, but i just don't have time to be stuffing about with windows xp! both my laptops already have windows 10. If i was to buy another ecu id probebly want to get one that can do full sequential for a 6clr, which would be 6inj outputs and 6ign ouputs. although to do that i would need to put in a cam sensor, which has been done many times before on the m20, just a bit of a stuff about again. Least if i want to use it on another 6clr engine in the future i would have the option anyway. Drove again to work, all kinds of fun, AC so cold my sunglasses fogged up stepping out of the car:)

Yah already got discs on the 6clrs. I put new pads, rotors and fluid in when i was doing up the engine, brakes work quite well for oem. Havenet really decided what to do suspension wise. The big issue is is that the sump is the lowest part of the car at the front, and its already quite a low car, maybe ~140mm at the sump. its not uncommon for people to smash the sump on soemthing even with a small lowering. the interwebs suggests that anything over about 1" of drop stuffs the suspension anyway, especially the rear. Rear is a trailing arm type suspension with like -2deg Camber from from the factory. Any sort of lowering greatly increases the camber (well makes it more negative) and i think adds a ton of toe in. and you can't do much about these from factory. I think you have to convert to camber type bolts, and lots of guys seem to weld on new tabs to the sub frame, which is far too much work! Front is just mcpherson strut, but with fixed castor (as it has a triangular lower crontrol arm allowing no adjustment), though it has a fairly generous castor from factory. Ill swap out all the bushes first and see how it goes. It does have alot of body roll id like to remove, but it is very comfortable to drive and I'm old and daily drive it so i don't want to sacrifice that too much, haha.

Well things took a turn for the worst on the weekend and to be honest i gave up on the haltech. I bought new spark plugs, chucked them in and it was still on OEM ecu and it started instantly and ran good. Swapped over to the haltech and i couldn't get the thing to fire, sort of kicked sometimes. So i then swapped to a previous tune file that i know worked, and it still wouldn't fire! So at this stage i have removed the haltech and my loom and i need to do some fault finding in my loom. I've been working 12hr days for the last few weeks and it doesn't look like its going to let up, so i don't really have the time to be able to muck about trying to fix it. And i don't want to just take it to someone either cause that will cost me a fortune! So i decided yesterday to put it all back to oem to get the car back on the road, as after all i'm all about driving it, rather than working on it. Few hrs later i had it all back together and i drove it to work this morning. Driving really well, probably better than it ever has. I did reroute a few vac lines so perhaps i fixed yet another vac leak. So at this stage haltech is in the too hard basket until i get some more time, I've actually put it on gumtree and if it sells i will buy a newer unit at some stage. I have a feeling the software isn't playing nice with windows 10 on my laptop anyway. For the time being I'm going to save my money and buy some new wheels and tyres as well as look into suspension bushes. Basically do modifications that i can perform in a few hours on a Saturday and guarantee its back on the road shortly after.

That has come up quite good! nice work. It was freakin' hot on Saturday, i achieved zero on my car, sat inside in the AC basically all day.

Thanks guys, yah ive toned it down to around 10 cold, see how it goes on that. Looks like ive completely ruined my spark plugs, which i didnt know was possible. Swapped it back to oem ecu last night just to see if it would actually start and all i get is a kick or two, the plugs are black as, time to buy new plugs tonight and try again.

Maybe... once operating idle fuel requirements is around 2.1mS in the fuel map, for a ~13.5:1 idle. there are a few corrections in play under start up. -Injector dead time (basically 1mS all the time) - so the idle is actually around 3.2mS -Coolant temperature compensation (quite high when cold, basically zero when hot) -Initial fuel pulse - first squirt of the injector when the engine starts turning - this was initially set insanely high by default (70mS) I left the initial pulse at 70mS as it seemed to work, but now its playing up considerably, perhaps because ive gotten the rest of the fuel map closer (ie richer, where its supposed to be and now its just far too rich to fire) After last nights efforts (pulled old spark plugs and cleaned them up a bit) it is definitely over fueling on start up, the cylinders stink of fuel when you pull the spark plug. So i reckon next step is to make that initial pulse basically zero, and keep increasing it until it starts properly.

Few pics. don't mind my spark plug vacuum cap. 14mm is an annoying size to try and cap, old spark is the perfect size:)

Ok so one week on. Progress hasnt been as quick as i would have liked Everything is finished installation wise, fairly happy with the wiring, not as neat as i would have liked, but its functional. Idle control valve is plumbed up and working (PWM from ecu wtih target idle), its ready to drive, and i have driven it like 100m or less. Turns out the learning curve on tuning is quite steep. Who knew? I have it starting perfect cold, enrichment on warm up, idle control valve starts the idle at 1100 and drops it to 850 at operating temp. Idling nice when hot, and free-reving reasonably well. But i cannot get it to reliably start hot!!! I have flattened the battery numerous times trying to get it to start hot. it seems to start if left for 5mins. but if you turn it off at operating temp and try and start it again straight away (ie you stalled in traffic) it just refuses to start! I think i have ruined the spark plugs, so I'm going to get new ones in the next day or so. i pulled a spark plug last night and they were quite carboned up, so perhaps they arent giving a very strong spark when hot or something. Other than that I'm kinda out of ideas, luckily i've wired it in such a way that it is about 1hrs work to put it all back to working OEM. Soooo tedius to create a fuel map from scratch, but certainly learning alot.

Replace all the bushes with anything rubber you like. Rrailing arm bushes made a huge difference in my car. Buy the cheapest adjustable panhard you can, no real advantage to anything expensive. The whiteline one you have to take one end off to adjust it. Some people dislike this, i liked it as there was no way it could come undone by itself. And also you only set it once and forget about it. The big thing thouvh with major suspension changes (springs, swaybars, shocks, LCAs) is not too change too much at once. Ke70 is a light car so small changes make big differences. I persoannly would put your wheels and tyres on, change the bushes and panhard rod, fit your springs and shocks and see how it goes. Only then decide if you need LCAs and sway bars. Ideally you want as little sway bar as possible yo keep your independantness. You will often find racecars run no sway bar to gain grip. Its all a trade off and unfortunately there is no one answer.

Not really from that era that are easyish to get. I got defected yrs ago (QLD) for a real nardi, 1point and 60bucks, didnt argue as had the cop looked harder the steering wheel was the least of my worries... unfortunately steering wheels are such a grey area and they are the easiest thing to get a defect for, you roll down your window cop sees a shiny steering wheel and reaches for the ticket book... if you can buy an aftermarket wheel that is definitely ADR approved, has either a stamp on it or some sort of certification, then that is your best bet. Keep the documentation in the glove box. I'm not talking "the ebay ad says ADR approved" i mean some sort of certification from the company. autotechnica says they are adr approved, this is the brand that supercheap sells. http://www.autotecnica.com.au/product/black-poly-steering-wheel/ But i dunno how it can be since it doesnt have a padded centre. that is exactly what the cop told me "your steering wheel doesnt ahve a padded centre, here is a defect ticket for it". If you can get definitive proof from the manufacturer in the form of a letter or a certificate then perhaps autotecnica is the way to go?

Thanks mate! got enthsiastic and went to bunnings, got some loom tube and started making things look pretty. the blue labels are just there so i remember where they go, once ive taped up the loom they will come off. Looks rather good i thought. New bosch plugs are awesome. I'm never playing with brittle second hand plugs again! like 30bucks for 10 of them.

Its alive on haltech! Took the plunge today and installed it and half wired it in I wanted to make sure it was actually going to work so i kinda half temporarilly installed it, the entire oem system is still in place, all i have done so far is unplug the oem injectors and plugged in haltech injectors achievement included - - wired 02 sensor to analogue input and got it interfacing with ecu - i think its a toyota air temp sensor i have, calibrated it and installed it. seems to give decent readings - swapped to my GM 1 bar map sensor -installed all my new bosch plugs with my new crimping tool, painful, but nice result. - started it up! I don't even know what fuel map is in it, some gineric map i installed when i was playing with it. But it started instantly, like proper instantly..... It was quite rich (10:1ish), but i quickly brought that into check and it idles soooo well at around 14:7. I have gone from 2 groups of 3 injectors to 3 groups of 2 running in semisquential. i got it to free rev quite well. And the first thing i noticed was that the throttle response is insane compared to the afm (and i don't even have my variable tps installed yet!) So now that its a proof of concept, tomorrow is tidy it all up ready for hooning, tasks include: -Install TPS - i need to drill and tap a few new holes in the adaptor plate, just m4 holes. -swap out coolant temp sensor for this other one that i have calibration data on, and install that. -Install my idle control valve and wire it in. It should be setup well from the last time i played with it. -see if i can gut my spare AFM and swap it in. be nice to remove the flap and it still look oem. -buy some loom tube and put all wires in it...as well as some self amalgamating tape, apparently its the go on this kind of thing. -possibly install a second relay for the injector wires, at the moment they are just jammed on the battery. Anywho, super stoked, here's a terrible photo of my mess. But it runs!

You're getting quite handy with that welder. Nice work.