ke70dave

e30 = bmw e30, from the 1980s. the software and firmware is on the haltech website, http://www.haltech.com/downloads-2/previous-products/ With the latest update there are alot of new features compared to the earlier ones. As for your loom, Depends how much you know about EFI? and/or how much you are willing to learn. ive been reading for weeks and weeks and I'm starting to get a grasp. loads of information out there, but alot of it is buried, and sadly alot of forums are starting to shutdown (damn you facebook), so some information is lost. it can get fairly complicated, especially when trying to diagnose intermittent faults. of all the engines though the 4age would have to be one of the simplest. how you wire it up will depends on which cam sensor you use. If it were me i would be trying to run the engine in full sequential mode. that is an individual spark and fuel injection for every cylinder. the e8 can run a 4clr in this configuration (4 ign outputs, and 4 injection outputs) I can't remember all the details, but the first generation 4age "16v bigport" ran in batch mode on the fuel injection (all injectors firing at same time). Its not exactly bad, i had one and it ran great, but full sequential is always better. To get full sequential you need to tell the ecu where the crank is and where the cam is, the cam sensor is often called a "home" sensor. I belive the later 16v "smallport" 4ages have both these sensors built into the distributor, i am unsure of the exact details though. you'll have to research this, and also find out what the 4agze CAS is, cause the 4agze doesn't have a distributor so i think it might be full sequential. If that is the case the 4agze sensor is the one to get. As for wiring all of this up, its certainly a challenge. You are probably better off buying a haltech super long gineric loom, and buying some plugs and making your own complete loom. You never really know what is going on inside a 30 yr old loom. If you were closer id come around and have a look, but byron bay is like 4hrs away!

E8 is super versatile. Make sure you upgrade it to the latest firmware and then use the appropriate halwin software. Be aware there are different versions of halwin for the different firmwares. And they arent compatible. Mine was sold as "broken" for this reason and i got it for $200:) Other than that no different to any other ecu. Same rules apply. As for the t50s. I can't remeber which is which but the t50 from the ae86/ae71 has a different spline count to the t50 from the ta22 celicas.

E8, good choice. I am currently wiring an e8 into my e30.

But the entire internet is convinced it gives better pedal feel! What say you in rebuttal to this? I'm convinced that the only reason people feel any difference with the lines is that their brakes needed to be blead before anyway, and since they had to bleed the brakes when they installed the lines suddenly their brakes are awesome and they put it to the lines, not the nicely blead brakes. Impressive you are doing Brisbane to Melbourne trips in this thing!

Also depends on which 4age you are running too, trigger setup changes across the 4age series. I'm not even sure you can buy a 4age patch loom, its not listed on their website, http://www.haltech.com/product/accessories/plug-n-play-patch-looms/ You are probably better off making your own patch loom out of a generic "flying lead" haltech loom, which aren't too expensive. There arent too many wires on a 4age.

I was very jealous of your workshop until i saw that snow......is your workshop heated?! If not do you freeze to death working on cars? haha. I lived in Canada for a year and put up with some cold, but we merely walked in the cold to and from the pub! Not worked on cars. Great updates, keep them coming, enjoyable to read.

Following on from Altezza, big question is why do you want do it?

I've also not come across a carby fuel pump that isn't annoyingly loud......

If you are tech savy an aftermarket ecu opens up sooo many options. I'm playing with an old haltech E8 at the moment which must be 10yrs old now, but the amount of options are insane. all kinds of crazy things you can do with analogue and digital outputs.

locking up for no reason? how on earth? so you just drive along and the brake locks up without touching the brakes? or when you apply the brakes the brakes "stick" on that particular wheel?

Have a chat to your local engine rebuilder. they will be able to get all the good brands, ACL etc. If it were me doing the job i would disassemble myself. clean myself, then take the block, rods and crank to a shop. get them to measure it, machine if necessary and then supply pistons/rings/bearings to suit the machined components. keep everything inline as Banjo says. You can measure etc yourself, but for the peace of mind i would get the guy who is machining to spec the parts. Then if you are keen you can do the assembly yourself, or if you got some spare cash get them to assemble to bottom end (which i would be tempted to do) and just drop the head on yourself.

bugger eh. I was just reading above about the water/meth injection. we ran water injection on a mates old rotary turbo, i don't believe we made any major changes to the fuel map. it was more of a prevention against knocking (and thus allowed a few extra degrees of ignition advance). we used a spare digital output on the ecu (megasquirt at the time) and triggered it on boost pressure and TPS i think. Water only, never any methanol. My mate came up with an injenious solution of pressurising the water storage container with the turbo, just a line from turbo with a 1 way valve. no need for an electric pump. We injected it pre turbo, straight into the turbo fins after air filter. technically this should erode the turbo fins, but after a few months we didn't notice any major damage. He didnt have the system running too long though, by then he had gone e85.

New exhast fitted! ended up putting a y-piece in down near the gearbox to convert the 2 x 1.75" into a single 2.25"with 2 mufflers. Didn't want to go any bigger for fear of drone.... Sounds alright, a bit louder than expecting, but pretty good. pretty quiet on cruise, but does drone a bit when your foot is down at low rpms. Sounds wicked at high rpms though. I also got a wideband bung put in just at the collector. And i purchased a wideband as well. Hopefully get that in next weekend. I've done about 600km now, no issues at all, super happy! here are some pics.

Haha, god poor ke70s get neglected and "modified" by morons. Enjoyable read:) I hope you're putting a rotary in that 323.

Nice write up! Keep the updates coming, we like updates:)

Well nothing too much to report form the weekend, which is a good thing! Drove it around all weekend and drove it to work first time this morning, no issues, just cruised along nicely. Up to about 150km of driving since rebuilt. A/C works super good, does take some noticeable power out of the engine though. I do have a bit of a noisy gearbox it seems. "low frequency rumble" is probably the best way to describe it. Its not really that loud at all but the interior is so quiet on the car i can hear it. Based on the fact that it goes away when stopped but only when the clutch is depressed and in gear tells me its probably the lay shaft bearings. Google suggests its quite common on this box, with alot of people putting up with it for years.Gearbox itself shifts fine. I think for now i will ignore it:) Starting to push the suspension and brakes a bit more, and revving the engine a bit. Certainly has some pick up to it, great little engine. Although i think there is more to be had with some better ignition timing. Apparently the ignition timing on the dizzy is really setup for smoothness, rather than outright power. And it certainly is smooth, but i want more power!

And it just made it all the way to springwood without exploding! Ok its only 20mins on the highway but still!! 2100rpm at 100km/h, engine just ticks along.

A 4age conversion is bolt in but only when you have tracked down all of the parts, and these days you can't just go to the wreckers and buy them all. they just crush old corollas these days. Took me like 18mths to find all the parts for my 4age conversion and this was like 5yrs ago...

updates! -Accelerator pedal fixed - i had the cable attached to the part where the optional cruise control would be fitted. swapped Accel cable to the other point which has more leverage, and pedal is silky smooth and nice and light. -Headlights adjusted - now i can see at night. -Jerkyness at low rpm seems to have been helped with the proper accelerator cable installation. dunno how, but it runs much better now, but not perfect. -Brakes are at around 95% now. pulls up hard and straight and has some nice initial bite to the pads. -Did find a small coolant leak in one of my radiator hoses, tightened it up which hopefully should have fixed it. -Still haven't driven it very far from home base as the engine destruction still haunts me haha. Going to go for a long drive on the weekend, with a mate who can help push if needed! Just need to build confidence in the car. -Car desperately needs new wiper blades - top priority!

If the gears are not totally destroyed you might be able to get away with lapping them, which would make them close to new. Need a proper gear shop to do this. Then just replace the bearings, set the pinion depth properly (!!!) and you should be motoring.

ah k, yeah mine is just a reconditioned OEM one. Only other thing is that the speakers in the car are terrible. I think the front two speakers are wired out of phase, sound ok when your ear is right up to them but sound weird when listening normally. Might look at putting in some replacements. Will keep an eye on something cheap on ebays. Oh and one other thing. Fuel pump seems to go continually when ignition is on (i'm using a different loom and fuel pump relay then before, old setup the pump prime worked and then stopped until engine started). I don't think its supposed to be on continually, but this loom and ecu is potentially from an earlier model. The fuel pump relay is where the system prime timing circuit is, which wouldn't surprise me if it was on the blink. But haltech will soon control fuel pump anyway so I'm not going to do anything about it at this stage.

Interesting. The clutch pedal is actually nice and light on this one (everything is brand new though) Will give the tapping a go next time i bleed.

Alright big weekend! Had a mate around from about 4pm Saturday arvo and took it for a drive at 1030pm on Saturday night! Engine works very well, fired straight into life once we hooked everything up properly. runs beautifully with good compression on every cylinder (who would have thought?:P) Very smooth power delivery, drives nice and straight. I've never really driven a straight 6, they are nice and smooth that is for sure. Even one that is like a 40yr old design. Issues to work through: - It idles too low when cold and too high when hot. (500rpm cold, 1300rpm hot). Started wiring the haltech and my electronic ICV so that will hopefully sort that. Looking forward to removing the painful vacuum system on it. - Accelerator pedal is quite stiff, interwebs suggest they are always stiff (Cable looks newish), perhaps i will get used to it, it is kinda annoying, but perhaps my hyundai accel is just very light. accelerator pedal is pivoted from the bottom, so sorta gotta put your whole foot on the pedal, sit heal of foot at base of pedal, and push at the top of the pedal, bit different to use, and quite weird at first. -new brakes and discs work alright, I did the 60-0km medium braking to try and bed them in (as the box suggested). I'm almost there, but they are still a bit spongy. They pull up good and straight but it just feels a spongy. I did flush the brake fluid and bleed it before driving (no bubbles at all), so unsure, perhaps they need to be bled again, or i need to greese the caliper slides. -AC and powersteering works well apart from no idle up on the AC. I'll get some new belts all round soon enough, unsure when they were last replaced, they look alright but cheap insurance. -Need to check ignition timing, i think it might be set a bit conservative. Unsure how to do this because i have removed the normal harmonic balancer with the marks in favour of a late model 60-2 CAS wheel. It runs well so i might just advance it by ear. -Slight annoying surging at very low throttle or even just cruising at say 1200rpm (ie when parking or crawling up driveway), can be fairly violent surging as you slow down and pull into driveway. possibly need to adjust TPS (its not a linear tps, just a idle switch and a what switch). -Throttle body has some small plastic bushes in the linkages that are quite worn, and my spare throttle body is the same. I don't think you can buy them anymore, might have to machine something up out of a bushing material. needs to be very low profile else i would just use a bolt. -Probably should change the differential oil, its got a leaky seal or 3, only weeping it seems as no oil on the ground. I'm on the look out for a shorter ratio and an LSD. it is currently a 3.45 ratio which is great for cruising, but something like a 3.9 would wake it up. the 325i came with a 3.9 and LSD was an option i think, see what i can buy from USA as there are loads of them over there. -External of car needs a wash badly! Planning has begun on haltech for ignition. Plan is to run the car on wasted spark (as my haltech only has 4 outputs). The commodore ecotech run a bosch wasted spark system using 3 coils with 2 coil posts per coil, cheap enough from a wrecker, and reasonably cheap brand new. I Just need to track down a tripple chanel ignition module, i think the ecotech coil setup comes with one but it is a "Smart" ignition module that controls the coil dwell itself. haltech will control the dwell so i just need a "dumb" module. might have to buy from overseas as they seem to have come on later model volvos or something weird. Alot of the ECU manufactures sell them but the are just bosch ones with a different sticker and twice the price....

Gotta remember that the main reason people go coilovers and a weld on sleave is to use short stroke shocks. Your oem shocks will be super long and if you want to lower the car you will most likely bottom out your shocks as the shock body is too long. A secondary reason is so that you can use a spring with less diameter so you can add some front camber if you desire. So you really should be designing your coil over system around a particular shock absorber that you want to run. Ie one that fits in the tube and is shorter. All of this needs to be planned out in regards to where you want the car to sit and more importantly where you want the shock absorber to sit in its travel when you are at static ride height. gotta think about how much bump and rebound travel you want. Generally you want it around 1/3 rebound travel and 2/3 bump travel. most cars with coil overs you see getting around bouncing all over the road don't have enough rebound travel. Then you cut the shock tube to suit the new shock absorber length, re weld the gland nut thread back on (so you can hold the shock in). Then you weld on your coilover kit in the right spot so that you can set your desired ride height. I'm afraid i can't really comment on the ke25/te27 shock setup, on my old ae86/ke70 setup i used some MR2 rear shock absorbers that happened to suit my shock tube and my height requirements.

The threads would be ateel and only the spinning nuts alluminium?