ke70dave

Possibly a bit of dirt stuck in the idle jet.

Hah, apologies didn't read your post properly. There's nothing wrong with crazy ideas bug there has to be some feasibility done. Simply asking "has anyone done this" doesn't really help you because in the end if you decide to do it you are going to be the one who has to figure it out. Crazy engine conversions are all possible if you have enough skills and cash.

Anything is possible. But have a think about how a fwd (!!!!) geabox from ~2005 is going to attach to a rwd engine from 1990? All of the gearboxeas in this thread that are at least half feasible are going to require a custom bellhousing adaptor and custom torque convertor. Not to mention does it even fit anywhere near the gearstick hole. Your talking Id guess upwards of $3k to get it bolted to your engine properly. Then you have to create the custom gearboxe mount and tailshaft. Suddenly an OEM supra 4 speed auto isn't looking so bad;)

How do you intend on bolting any of these oddball gearboxes to your 1jz?

Out of curiosity why did you choose an s14 radiator? As mentioned I reckon will be far too wide for the opening in the ke30 front. Which is basically wasting half the radiator

That is awesome. Time to make some carbon fibre things to replace heavy things so you can be lighter!

What needs to be done? Mechanic costs will add up quick.

Not sure about the red engine bay (mainly cause it doesn't match the exterior...) But I can't say I've ever seen an 18rg with go fast bits in a sprinter. Very cool Indeed. Interior looks fairly complete too. Even better.

You are massivley over thinking it.... - Connect all engine loom grounds (brown ring terminals) - There's a Maine wire in the engibe loom that powers the coil and a few other items, it's quite thick, on mine it was orange. This needs ignition 12v. It usually connects to the fuse box in engine bay. - find the pin out for ecu and connect the +12v and give that ignition 12v. It's prolly one of those plugs you are lookin at. - wire up fuel pump using circuit opening relay and ecu output. - start signal not 100% required. But connect it to the start solenoid. Done!

No my "easily" was meant to be in relation to litteredspirits first post. You can fit any engine you want, it just won't be easy. Best bet is to just fit the same engine as before.

*easily.

yeah mate, back in Australia as of about 6 weeks ago. Lookin for my next project.

Very nice. I have a smootharc stick welder and it really is a smooth arc.

Great video. I too am interested in your front tyre wear.

Not much. Take all the bolts.

Have you seen this calculator before? http://www.not2fast....urbo_calc.shtml there are some good instuctions on how to use it. Essentially you need to get the compressor map for your chosen turbo, and have a look at particular rpm values to see how the pressure and flow of the compressor interact. remember because turbo is a centrifugal pump that flow and pressure are sort of independent, and if you start asking a turbo to add more pressure outside of its design limit you will just heat up the air instead of adding more flow. and similarly if you ask a turbo to push heaps of air but at not much pressure the impeller does not like that either and you'll end up with compressor surge. The engine needs to eat the air at a rate that keeps the efficiency of the compressor as high as possible to get best results. You really want to try and maximise your compressor efficiency in the rpms that you are going to use all the time, which on a street car is probably say 3000-6500. you got a compressor map of that PE turbo?

I ran my 4age without them for a few yrs, no issues. If you have them chuck them on, but i think its probably ok without them.

Potentially. It's possible you may run the compressor wheel to fast though and get all sorts of issues. I'd say alot of people do stuff because alot of people do it. If you really want to delve into turbo selection it gets very sciencey quite fast...and I don't entirely understand most of it. Depends where you want to make your power too. If you want a huge kick up the mid range with the downside being not as high peak power that will be a different choice turbo than just going for a high hp figure at max rpm.

Sr20=2L,4age=1.6 In not sure it's wise to compare the two.

What does that last sentence mean?

Does the car run with the coil you have?

Every time you bend a pipe, you add additional pressure drop and you ruin any sort of laminar flow inside the pipe. On the first point of "additional pressure", a normal straight pipe has pressure drop across it, and when looking at bends often books talk about an "Equivalent length" of pipe of a bend. Ie, how much extra pipe is that bend worth in pressure drop. The amount of pipe is related to the diameter of the pipe though, so the "1 meter" is probably correct for a certain diameter of pipe, but its not a general rule. http://www.katmarsoftware.com/articles/pipe-fitting-pressure-drop.htm if you look at that, in section 3.1 it gives the calculation for a 90deg bend as 13 = Le/D where Le is the equivlent length, and D is diameter. if we assume an internal diamter of 1.5" (guess) that gives the equivelent length of 13*1.5 =19" so essentially its like adding 19" of pipe. As for the ruining flow, that is probably more of an issue with the bend, as you are then starting to talk about the "extracting" properties of an exhaust, not sure how you calculate the effect of a 90deg bend though. How much difference is this going to make in the real world on a tiny K motor? i would say close to zero..... If you were making an exhaust, sure don't put a 90deg bend. But if that bend is not leaking i wouldn't worry about changing it until you get some nice extractors etc. This was an interesting video from the roadkill boys on dented headers, gives an idea on how much difference it makes.

Man those wheels look cool. Those R888 tyres? look sticky.

if they are just specs of paint that have landed on an already shiny surface (ie shiny clear coat), you might have some luck with a clay bar. no chemicals required... bit like this guy

Thing to remember is that vacuum is high on closed throttle scenarios and very quickly goes to zero (or close to atmospheric pressure) when the throttle is opened. So the vacuum advance mechanism works under light throttle conditions, and like you say this helps with fuel economy and it also helps with throttle response as higher igniotin timing makes things a bit snappier. If you are not getting a very varied vacuum signal with varying throttle from whatever port you are measuring then I'd say that's the wrong port. Been quite a number of years since I've even seen a 4k carby so I'll leave it to others as to where the vac advance port is, but you want a port that gives you pure vacuum, no dashpots etc. Which I think was the lowest port, but not exactly sure.