ke70dave

hmmmm 17:1 eh. I guess as long as it runs smooth as lean as you can get it is the goal on cruise. Perhaps my engine can put up with that lean. Changed the oil and filter on the weekend its only been 2000km or so but figured worth changing to see if tappets quieten down as i put in 10w40 last time as its what i had spare in the garage. Went with 20W50 as specified in the manual. Went with some castrol GTX stuff as it was on special for $30 for 5L and a ryco filter that was almost the same price :/ I think i will still readjust the tappets but the thicker oil seems to have quietened them down a bit. Nothin else to report, i had grand plans to finish my loom on the weekend, but life got in the way and i achieved nothing on the loom! Maybe this weekend.....

Yah just the 4inj and ign. I keeping my eye open for an e11 that has 6 ign and inj.

Yeah that was my other option. Kinda wanted to keep my options open for full sequential in the future.

So a bit more reaserch (and realisation on my part) has revealed that when an engine misfires, you get unburnt fuel going through the exhaust but you also get loads of oxygen coming through. and this oxygen causes an ultra lean condition to be read by the o2 sensor. Seems that at the super low rpm where i am getting the 16+ AFRs I'm actually get some slight misfires, i had a smarty pants mate come around last night and straight away he said it sounded like it was misfiring. It has never had a perfect idle but the engine stays relatively smooth i guess because it is 6clr rather than 4clr. After a bit of a drive he seems to think that the readings i am getting are rather normal. So onwards and upwards! this time i have photos.... TPS adaptor turned up yesterday, fits super nice. Bag of brand new bosch plugs, all plugs on the loom will be new. Not worked out how to crimp them yet, i might need a special crimp tool, dad might have one. And here is where I'm at with the wiring, majority of wires cut and labelled.

That's right, i rememeber now. I'm looking at buying LS1 coils for my BMW actually. I was gonna use one per cylinder, but then wire them in wasted spark configuration. (ive only got a crank signal with a missing tooth) Do you know much about genuine vs copy? Best place to buy? Prices are all over the place on ebay. The respectable sellers i was looking at seemed to be about 260bucks a set of 8. which would be nice, 2 spares for for the glove box.

Where do you intend on putting your cam sensor for your sequential?

All legal and on the road eh. just goes to show the effort you gotta go to to get past all the rules:/ Nicely done!

Rear yes, fronts maybe. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/20017-Ke70-and-Ae86-springs

Soooo blocked off that exhaust thing, didn't change anything... unless it was running at say 17:1, and now it runs at say 16.5:1 which is still 16+ Drove to work today in the blisering heat, A/C on full blast, and no overheating! Did discover that my A/C outlet drips directly onto the exhaust though, which can't be good, might have to see about re-routing that.

Ahhhh rust. best to fix that up eh. I like the sounds of those plans.

I sure did. Fitted it up yesterday. no pics unfortunately. Went for a 30min drive or so, and the whole time i thought that the numbers seemed a bit lean......at wide open throttle i was getting 13s which seamed lean, idle i was up in the 15s and would even drop to 16+ (max lean reading) at times. very light cruise i could also see 16+ as well. It is a brand new NTK sensor and i calibrated it as per instructions. After some investigation it turns out that what i thought was Exhaust gas re circulation is actually an auxiliary air pump pumping fresh air into the exhaust. You can see the pipes in the exhaust manifold below. BMW calls it a "pulse pump" or some such thing. Fairly ingenious design in that it uses the pulse of one exhaust to push fresh air into the other exhaust via those air valves. Emissions thing to attempt to burn left over fuel in the exhaust, only on the very early m20b23 and only in Australia and Switzerland or something. After this they went to a more advanced fuel injection system which eliminated the need. Qutie a good idea, but not great when trying to read 02 readings accurately. So next step is to block off that contraption and see if i get more reasonable readings. I also started making my loom yesty, got most of the new wire cut and labeled. Will start soldering them to the haltech patch loom this week. Still waiting on my bosch plugs to turn up. Australia post is so damn slow these days. In other news i also adjusted my tappets first time since rebuild (i got the engine shop to set them the first time), they all seemed a bit too tight. The manual specs 0.25mm both in and ex, mine were set to around 0.15ish or so across the board, which seemed strange. I had always thought that perhaps the they should make a bit more tappety noise, they were almost too quiet. I set them to 0.25mm and holy dooly its a tappety tappety tappety mess now. Too much tapping. So not sure what is going on. Interwebs suggest that you can get some wear on the point where you adjust the tappets and thus you don't get an accurate reading. I might try setting them to 0.20mm and see how it goes.

Haha that made me laugh. I can't help with the mirror though i am afraid. Unless you come across a pair of mirrors off another car that suit the ke35 then you can just swap both on. But as mentioned, need to please the princess.

nice progress! Excellent idea to purchase a manual for your car. Will come in handy the more you work on it.

If you can get in contact with king springs via email they should be able to tell you the ID and OD of the spring at both ends as well as the overall length. I have emailed them a few times in the past when getting custom springs made by them, quite helpful.

ahh trailer wire is a good suggestion. I might buy some as I'm sure it will come in handy. Its pretty cheap off ebay. I ended up heading over to dads house last night (hes an electrician) and gave me a 50m roll of 1mm^2 tinned wire. So looks like i'm going in the deep end of loom making this evening..... Also bought 4m of microphone cable to use for my Crank sensor pickup. Potentially an overkill but it was like 12bucks from jaycar. Also picked up my wideband, got an NGK powerdex with an NTK sensor. just gotta find a nice place to put it. it is a square box with a red digital read out.

haha! I may be onto something, My dad is an electricnian and he suggested i get a some multi core cable which is 24 cables inside one, strip out the wires and then use that. beauty is that in the multi core the wires all have printed numbers on them. I might have to get creative in the way i do the loom, perhaps have a "main engine loom" which would be 24 wires (injectors, ignition and temp sensors) and then an "auxilary loom" for all the other random stuff. that way i can have the same numbered cable but in a different loom. Heres the list.... Admittedly its probably a bit overzealous...but id rather have a few more wires going through firewall that i can use to run other stuff in the future. gauges etc.

Okdokie, few weeks ago past.... not too much to report. Was driving home the other day and the coolant temperature started getting a bit hotter than normal, rather than 1/4 where it usually sits it was up around 1/2 when stopped then would quickly drop back to 1/3ish when driving. Got it home only to realise i was missing around 3L of coolant.... Took me a while to find but there was a tiny crack in one of my heater hoses causing a leak. It wasn't until i was fiddling around with the idle for ages in the garage the other day that i found the puddle under the car. Luckily i had a new heater hose already off the other engine, so on it went. No more coolant issues it seems. Reason i didn't pick it up sooner is cause the "low level coolant light" never came on. because it is broken. Thanks coolant light, you had one job and you failed. I got my haltech and bosch idle up solenoid temporarilly wired in the other day. I got it to work quite well, took me a while to tune in the PID settings for the idle control. I got it to the point where i could set the idle target rpm and it would very nicely catch the rpm as it came down and hold it VERY steady. Best idle i have ever heard from the engine. Unfortunately i couldn't complete the install as i didn't realise that the idle up relies on a TPS input to know when to turn on. And with no TPS it assumes that the tps is always at 0% and thus tries to target the rpm all of the time, which i think would stuff up normal driving of engine and might work the idle control valve too hard..I thought i could limit the idle control to only kick in under a certain rpm but unfortunately its under a certain TPS. Issue is the OEM TPS is more of a throttle switch, it only has a switch for IDLE and a switch for Wide open throttle. I am currently trying to track down an E36 TPS as they can be adapted to the e30 throttle body fairly easily. I am also in the planning stages of my new wiring loom. Having enough wires for full sequential injection and 10 spares for various potential outputs or other things it looks like i need approximately 42 wires going from ECU to engine bay. The OEM wiring loom only uses about 10 wires so it doesn't help me. One option is to buy a 100m roll of 1mm^2 cable and make it from scratch, issue with that is all the wires would be the same colour, so would need to make wire tags. I could go to the wreckers and buy a wiring loom off a straight 6 engine to get at least enough wires but i fear that may be too much work in modifying it to work. Or i could buy a universal wiring kit for the haltech, but they arent that cheap ($250ish or so). I have purchased all theplugs i need to make the loom, i just need the wire! Does anyone know where i can buy say 42 wires that are ~3m long that are all different colors? that isn't going to cost me the world.

Well you certainly are committed to the AE101! nice work on the parts transfers, i like the look of that short shifter design.

ah yep, classic coolant leak. sounds like you did the right thing. Fill it up up, idle it and find the leak.

Hello brendan. Your best bet is to figure out why it overheated. First thing first, fill it up with coolant, bleed all the air out let it idle and observe. Look for leaks and keep an eye on what the temp gauge is doing.

Whats the compression ratio difference of the two engines? Appart from the heads they are pretty much the same engine yeah? Do you know the history of your current starter? Has it been rebuilt? It could just be a bit sad?

Hot damn! What an update.

Small port dizzy has 2 internal VR sensors. One VR sensor is a 24th wheel which gives the cam position in 15degree incrememnts, which given that the crank spins twice as fast i believe that gives the crank position at 7.5degree increments. because there are no missing teeth (ie the engine doesnt know where the 24th wheel is in relation to the engine) this is not enough to do anything with. The other internal VR sensor is a single pulse which is a "Reset", you'll have to check but i believe this is setup to pulse at TDC cylinder 1 (or close to). this second input tells the ecu when the engine is at TDC of cylinder 1, then it knows exactly where the crank is and what cylinder is firing next. Both these sensors combined is enough to run your engine in full sequential mode (you mentioned you have individual coils and ignitors) but with the smallport dizzy if you went this way you would not be using the distributor part of the dizzy (ie the cap and rotor). the ECU would drive the ignitors directly which in turn fires the coils. So you can either leave the dizzy cap on, or some people make up a blanking plate.

Much to learn you have, 4agze CAS = 4age crank angle sensor. There is no copying looms here, you need to research how the haltech works, how efi works what sensors the haltech needs in order to perform the duties you are going to ask it. In that link above is the haltech e8/e11 manual (e11 is pretty much the same as e8 just more outputs). its like 160 pages long, i suggest start reading that to get an idea on how it works.

A cheap build will lead to a second build :) I suggest you address every component that is out of spec.