ke70dave

Thing is its ready pretty low from factory.....bottomed out on a speed bump at coles the other day:/

Bloody hell another month goes past. I tried to buy 2 sets of bottle cap aluminium oem wheels for this thing as i needed new tyres anyway. I was happy to pay money for good condition tyres, but the wheels them selves are dim a dozzen so didnt want to spend too much.... First set ($200 agreed price) the guy told me 4 brand new tyres on them, get to his house (40mins way), 1 half new tyre, 3 bald ones. his excuse "oh sorry i didnt check, i thought they were new. Walked away from that one. Idiot. Second set ($250 agreed), tyres were actually new and not very old, gave him some moneys, put them in the boot of the car and off i went. Got them home and mounted them on the car. One didnt fit nicely on the rear, but i figured it was because the centre bore was tight from some surface rust. So i put it on the front and the wheel was actually massively buckled. I cocouldn't see the buckle but once it was mounted up and spun it was quite evident. dude was nice enough to take my money back and i gave the whole set back. not his fault i suppose as they came off a parts car. Still frustrating. fail number 2. So i put new wheels in the too hard basket and bought 2 new budget tyres ($198 fitted) for the front and put the best two of my used tyres on the back. Problem solved. What a bloody waste of time:P haha. Still unsure what to do with this thing. It drives so nice at the moment, just an enjoyable car to drive around. Im tempted to buy some new shock absorbers and keep the oem springs. I think the rear shocks may have been replaced recently, but the fronts feel a bit worn. 4 new shocks and a couple of new bushes would tighten things up a bit and not detract from the nice daily drive ability.

ahhhh my apologies. I have been reading too much about honda engines lately, i jumped to conclusions. Although i feel that alot of my comments potentially still stand,but replace honda s2000 with 240sx :P ka24de would be quite a tall engine for a ke30 i would think? although if it fits in an s13 it should fit in a ke30, the sr20 fits alright in a ke30.

Welcome to rollaclub mate, Im not sure how k24 and budget ended up in the same sentence. Been done heaps of times in various rwd cars on the internets. Everything is custom. You'll also need devent brakes, suspension and am lsd to make it at least a usable car. And by the time you have done all of that you qill have potentially spent more than if you just bought a honda s2000.

Don't worry you wont break anything on a a 4k. Any mechanic older than 40 worth anything will be able to diagnose a 4k. give some mechanics a call, tell them your woes and ask if they can assist. most young guys wont have much experience with carburetor engines. Realistically they should be able to diagnose though sadly Im not sure how much they teach of carburetors these days. 4k is a basic engine, so you need to cover the basics. How did you set the ignition timing? timing light? are you sure you got the points gap right? this is critical, how did you set the points gap.

This is how you weld diffs yeah?

60,000 seems quite low! gonna make yourself a build thread? so you can put up some photos:)

The cheapest brand name you can get in 15w40 or so.

Agreed with you Jon on all those points. I guess if you arent changing the pinion you are assuming it is correct, which i think on a 40yr old diff might not be the best idea. Though you sound more experienced than me. I cant stand the smell of gear oil, so i just pay diff shops money:P

Yup, listen to your diff man Turns out there is alot more to differentials than meets the eye. the crown wheel and pinion must be kept as a pair for starters, and although backlash is important, what you are really checking is tooth engagement, contact patch and it is your "backlast" that sets your pinion depth that controls the tooth contact patch, using "bearing blue" to see the tooth engagement. the problem is, measuring this stuff is annoying and takes time as every time you need to make a change the diff comes appart.... I gave all this a go years ago.....once....and made a huge mess of it. Diff basically self destructed within a few thousand kms. I would have another go as i learnt alot. and there is no reason why you cant give it a go, have a read of some contact patch guides. Just be aware its very easy to screw it up by being a very small amount out. And its catastrophic when you screw it up.

google it, it doesn't exist. it's a 7afe engine with a 4age head. been done quite a few times, there are a cuople of oddball parts to make it work ie some obscure timing belt and i think cooling system parts. You would be better with an SR20DE and RWD gearbox to suit i reckon. 2L and oem.

3tc and powerful? we talking about the same 3tc? celica engine from the 70s? nothing powerful about that. Probably not even heavy enough to be a boat anchor either. With all of the other engines available (4age and associated) theres no good reason to pick a 3tc appart from being retro as altezza suggests. The best engine conversion is the one you can afford to install 100% reliably and actually enjoy.

Gawd, you certainly saved it.

if you have the ability to do a bit of fab work perhaps just buy another reproduction battery tray for some other car that is close and make it fit? This is the first thing that came up in ebays, would have to be close? Just a tray afterall... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chevrolet-1962-63-battery-tray-new-reproduction-/182138909852?hash=item2a6853349c:g:1OwAAOSw9k5XPj-b

If my dodgy ass ke70 made it to the cruises 10yrs ago yours can too:p

Jeez louise theres alot going on there.

ah yes the R31 diff is also another viable option. the oem r31 lsd is a bit rubbish (cone type thing, that are all stuffed by now), but KAAZ make an aftermarket that fits. But yes, sounds like an oem one is the way to go for what you are doing.

A t-series ae86 diff is a better option if you want the ability to put an LSD in. But same costs apply for install, welding on all the required mounts and a custom tailshaft. plus of course the cost of the LSD itself which can be 1000bucks on its own, alot more if you go brand new. Differentials are expensive!

My memory is a bit vague...But i belive the beauty of the YR22 diff is that it has teh same diff centre as the altezza diff (F series), which means you can use ratios and LSDs from that. YR21 seems to be an E series diff. Dunno what else is E series. We put a yr22 diff in an ae86 yrs ago behind a CA81det, custom everything. Big ass heavy diff for a corolla though, if you don't need it, don't put it in.

I bet it looks alot better with a color coded front valanve and a chrome bumper.

A working auto of that vintage would have to be quite horendous. I can't see why an ae71 transmission will not bolt on but unsure if you will have issues with the auto "flywheel" as a 4ac is 6 bolt on the crank but 4age is 8 bolt.

nice time, looks fun. what are you hoping to achieve with the new trumpets? some low down torques?

You should be able to put that engine and use your standard cluster. Very simple engine when it comes to wiring (compared to modern engines anyway)

google led me to this no other details really. Sort of works, sort of doesnt.

Ex corolla owners in euro machines accepted? If so I'm in. Can i make a suggestion for an uber early start. Theres something nice about driving along as the sun comes up in winter with the heater on and the windows cracked.