Banjo

Not sure what you mean, when you describe the lifters as defective & damaged. If they are that bad, then you replace then, or go to solid lifters, and change all your rocker gear. If you just mean that three (3) don't work, then you may be able to resolve the issue by carefully keeping each lifter & it's internal components together & associated with the position it came from. If you then meticulously clean them, and remove any oil stain "varnish" & reassemble & fill with oil, as described in the video link in my earlier response, you may well be able to overcome the problem. If you read the detailed description of how lifters work, then you will appreciate a lot of things all have to be just right for the lifter to work. If you are going to replace the hydraulic lifters with new ones, it will be expensive & should really involve the cam & probably it's bearings also. Could be a very costly operation, all up. That's when the solid lifter conversion looks a lot more attractive. After saying that, I've had two (2) off 5K motors & never had a lifter problem with any of them. Most hydraulic lifters work very well throughout the life of the motor, but on very old motors, with unknown history, and lots of klms, and build up of gunk & oil varnish, it's more than likely that's when hydraulic lifter issues will arise, with age. If you've got the time, & the possibility of having to remove the engine again, if it does not work, I'd just clean meticulously, refill with oil & give it a try. At least, I think you've solve the issue of the source of your noise. It's now just a matter of how you want to solve it. Cheers Banjo

How many klms have you done since the engine rebuild ? The initial wear markings on the new main & conrod slipper bearings look a bit uneven. Have you ever measured the engine oil press with a good guage after the rebuild ?

Have you tried this Nulon product ? http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Engine_Treatments/Lifter-Free_and_Tune-Up

Think you are heading in the right direction. It is looking like it might just be tappet noise, introduced by maybe a faulty hydraulic valve lifter or two. Does your 5K have hydraulic lifters ? There were some 5Ks apparently fitted as standard with adjustable tappets. I ask that, because you mentioned "tuning valve gaps", which can only been carried out on adjustable tappets. Has this engine ever been converted to solid push rod lifters ? If it has hydraulic lifters, it is quite common for 5Ks with lots of klms, to have a noisy tappet, as a result of a hydraulic lifter leaking. This usually happens at start up, but usually disappears after the oil pressure builds up quickly. However, if the noise persists, it is quite often an indictation of a faulty or very worn lifter. Have you removed all the lifters, (one at a time, or number them 1-8) and dissembled cleaned & checked that no internal springs have broken ? If you are going to clean them, here is a good video that will assist. It's not for a 5K, but the technique is the same. Here is link to a good wikipedia description of how hydraulic lifters works. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_tappet The valve lifters are right next to the cylinder in the block, which would line up with your comments about where the noise appeared to be coming from. A "point tip" stethoscope can detect each valve lifter quite easily, as the valve lifter is located very close to the outside of the block, and that area is easily accessible on the 5K, as a result of it's slant installation. Cheers Banjo

It's going to be very frustrating if you put it all back together again, fire it up & the noise is still there. Real need now, is to find out whether the noise is dynamic or static. That means, does the noise only occur as a function of detonation, or is it something mechanical, unrelated to the engine running. I'd put the sump back on, sit the engine in a couple of old tyres, (assuming it is out of the car), put some oils in it, & turn the engine over using a big electric drill connected to the crankshaft pulley. That should be enough revs to create the noise if it is mechanical. Let's know how you go. P.S. Did you use the stethoscope test ? Did that show up anything ? Cheers Banjo

Try it & see. I would image it will be very loud, as a doctors stethoscope is very sensitive. http://toolmonger.co...2/stethoscopes/ Cheers Banjo

I've listened to it 3 or 4 times, with headphones on, and it has that hollow ringing sound, associated with the noise being generated within the sump area. I presume you have checked your oil pressure ? You could possibly narrow the point of generation, a bit more, by using a mechanics stethoscope. If you haven't got access to one of these, then you can always use a piece of hose or tube, with a bolt jammed in sensing end, and the other end in your ear with the second ear blocked. Move it around the engine until you find the area with the loudest output. Whatever the result, it probable means the 5K has got to come out again, but if you can narrow it down, whilst it is running, it should make it easier to find, once the 5K is on the "operating table". You didn't by any chance change the clutch pressure plate ? I once fitted a pressure plate to a 5K, with a high pitched ticking noise whilst running. Proved to be an aftermarket India pressure plate that was a little too big in the frame, which just touched the inside of the bellhousing, at one spot. Luckily, that only required removal of the gearbox. Cheers Banjo

http://www.news.com....261a7c00f959365 Point 12:

I think Stuart might be on the right track. Have a look at this link. http://toyotapartsca...-distributor-5/ Distributor Cap P/N 19100 Rotor P/N 19102 Cheers Banjo

I compared my 5K dizzy with built-in ignitor, with your photos, and it looks very much like yours. Maybe the aspect ratio of your photo threw me off a bit, as the ignitor "looks" fatter in your photo than mine. My 5K dizzy, still has the aluminium ID sticker on the side. It states . . . TOYOTA 19060-13100 100291-1349 5K-C Denso Japan Maybe those numbers will lead you to the correct cap & rotor for yours. My rotor button has no numbers on it at all. I'll go round up the cap later, but I don't think it has any identification numbers either. Cheers Banjo

Does the distributor have little aluminium plate or sticker on it, with Toyota or ND (Nippon Denso) numbers on it ? Your top photo seems to show the remains of a sticker on it, that looks like it has seen better days. I looks a bit like a 5K dizzy, but differs I think. I'll go & grab a 5K one from the shed & compare with your photos. Cheers Banjo

Hi Peter, You're welcome ! Just keep posting. Cheers Banjo

Wow ! That's probably about 3 times their original purchase price back in the early 70s. Who said early Corolla's don't appreciate. I remember, I once bought a 1978 KE55 Coupe, from a girl next door, who had had it since new. I got it at a good price, as the 3K "rubber bung" oil filler cap had popped out, and she had driven it unawares, until she lifted the bonnet. The site was so horrific, she assumed it was stuffed. A good Saturday afternoons work, and I had it looking clean as a whistle under the hood. Only problem was my girlfriend at the time, was driving it to work, and it had a fight with a truck. Truck "1", Corolla big "0". I remember cleaning out the glovebox & finding the original new purchase receipt for about AUD $ 4000. Cheers Banjo

Hi Keith, You are indeed lucky ! Members on this forum have "wet dreams" of finding & owning a rare find like yours. Well done. I'd almost sacrifice a nut to own one in that beautiful restored pristine condition. Like Parrot, I'll await your pictures on this forum. If it's not a personal question, how much did you pay, to aquire this beauty ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Keith, Welcome aboard. Wow, that is a beautiful KE20 you have there. It looks to have been lovingly looked after, & probably has low klms. Seems a shame to modify it in anyway, but a set of olde skool mag wheels, will probalby make it look even better. Love to see some more photos of it on here, and a bit of it's history, if you know it. If it hasn't got any serious cancer in it, you will be the envy of many on this site. Cheers Banjo

One tip when welding lower KE70 spring perches onto strut with a greater O/S dia. When you grind away the inside of the lower perch to fit snuggly over the 50mm dia strut, it does not leave a lot of metal on the perch at that point, where you need it to be welded to the strut. The original perches had a "turn down" at that point where, it met the strut, but you will have ground that off in this opening up hole process. I found a 2" dia. metal ring at the hardware store, that was actually part of an agricultural gate latch fitting. I careful filed all the galvanising off it, then carefully filed the inside dia. about 0.5 mm, until is was a snug slide down the 51mm strut tube. It was welded onto the strut tube, with about 4 off stitch welds, so as not to distort the tube. Then slide the lower perch down onto the ring and weld perch to ring & strut tube. Created a very strong welded joint, probably as good or better than the original. Cheers Banjo

Possible air leak somewhere on the inlet manifold ? Second stage, take 4K carby & dismantle, & give it a good clean with carby cleaner aerosol. Third stage, give ignition system a complete check overall, & replace anything defective. Forth stage, do a compression test to see how your valves are. One of those scenarios will most likely reveal the cause of your woes. Cheers Banjo

Hi Wayne, Yes, just carefully grind the KE70 struts lower spring perches off, open the hole out to approx 50mm to be a snug fit on the strut, and weld it back on, with enough compression on the spring, so that it will still be held captive, when you have a wheel airborne. I only used the top KE70 spring cap, as I used the Techno Toy Tuning camber adjustmenter. The spacing of the 3 studs on the KE70 top strut mount are different to other KEs. They are not evenly spaced. No doubt, you could probably use the KE70 top spring perch with a normal KE30/55 top rubber mount. Cheers Banjo

Hi Parrot, Most calipers have two mounting holes where the caliper attaches to the strut axle casting. The centre to centre of these two mountings is the 100mm I was referring to. The Corona strut's, (used by many on Rollaclub) mounting, are I think, 90mm centre to centre. This picture isn't mine, I just grabbed it off the net to make it clear. Cheers Banjo

Hi Steve, Yes pretty much straight in, bolt up changeover. However, if changing over from a JAP diff, you will need the tailshaft also, as the tailshaft to diff flanges are different. Cheers Banjo

Sorry for the slow response. Wanted bigger & better brakes on my KE30 2 door, but didn't want to go to 15" wheels. Finished up with Celicia RA65 struts, but the KPI on these is about 9.0 deg, and gives slightly positive camber. Needed adjustable Techno Toy Tuning camber top adjusters, to get it slightly negative again. Wanted to keep LCAs length standard. Biggest vented disc rotors I could find at the wreckers, that would fit inside the rims, were out of a Cressida MX62. The caliper mounts on the RA65 strut had 100mm centres and were parallel to the rotor, so required no packing or adjustment. Many of the Toyota disc calipers have 90 mm mounting centres, but I did find a later model Cressida (about 1992 - 1993 model) that had giant single pot calipers with 100mm mounting centres. These fitted the RA65 strut caliper mounts perfectly. These calpiers were however designed for a slightly thicker rotor. I needed to machine just 1mm off the caliper mounting face to get the caliper to sit over the rotor with the disc pads evenly spaced either side. I also needed a 2 mm flat spacer behind each disc pad, so that with everything new the pots were fully retracted. This was easy, as I just ground the brake pad off old disc pads backing plates, & then had then the backing plates machined down about 2mm. This is a very straight forward conversion, using KE70 coils & lower sping perches, so the the camber adjusters travel can be used in full. (KE70 has the smallest dia coils of the early Corollas) The later model Cressida calipers have giant disc pads which cover a greater area of the MX62 rotor that the original MX62 pads. This provided great breaking performance, with lower pressure requirements. However, I did convert my master cylinder to the early Pajero one. The result was a front brake performance that bears no comparison, to the original KE30s brakes. Let's be frank. Early Corolla's were not reknown for there good brakes. I'm about to fit a KE55 diff assembly which had 9" brake drums, rather than the original KE30's 8.0" drums. This diff has a 4.11 ratio (manual) rather than the 4.3 original in the car, as the KE30 started life as an automatic. I'd love a 3.89 diff ratio but can't find one at present. However, with the 4.11 & the slightly larger 14 wheels & tyres, I should get a car with "longer legs" and hopefully can cruise on the open road at 110 kph at about 2600 - 2800 rpm, in 5th gear. (yes it has a KE70 5 speed box) Cheers Banjo

Toyoat Corolla 4KU engines have dished pistons. i know, I've got one in my car at present.

Good advice from Parrot there. An ignition system is as good as the weakest link in the chain. Use an olde dizzy with lots of slop, and you won't get the best results. Re RainWarriors query above. The MSD 6AL is basically a smart ignitor, but does not have the ability to setup a custom advance curve. http://www.msdigniti...on_Control.aspx It still uses the mechanical advance characteristics from the dizzy that triggers it. You need a programable ignition module, where you can set the advance curve up to suit your engine setup & your needs. I use an Australian Jaycar Programmable ignition system, which you build from a kit. It is the cheapest entry level way into a fully programable ignition. I've got an Accuspark/Powerspark Hall Effect sensor to replace the points in a 4K Denso dizzy I had rebushed. I locked up the bob weights, and the results have been very pleasing. I have the ignition wired up so that it starts up instantly, using the Accuspark as the ignitor. As soon as it starts & you let go the key, it flips back to the Jaycar system, using the Accuspark as a trigger only. I've built an external ignitor based on the Bosche ignitor component, which I brought in from DIY AutoTune in the USA. These Bosche ICs are almost indestructible. Just mount it on a heatsink & that's it. Very very pleased with the results, & highly reliable. I've played with the curve over time & the drive is now smoother, more acceleration & better top end performance. I've even put a limp mode switch in, so if in the worst case, the whole electronics & ignitor were to burn out, I can switch it back to the Accuspark and drive the coil via it's internal ignitor. I actually tried it one night, whilst 15 klms from home, and although lacking a bit of oommph, it got home safe & sound, with just static advance of about 12 deg. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeremy, Just a few thoughts. Have you done a health check on the engine itself ? If not, take it for a brisk run, until it is up to operating temperature. Upon return home, immediately take out all four (4) spark plugs and lay them out on a piece of cardboard & number them 1,2.3 & 4 front to rear. Then beg, borrow, or obtain a compression guage and do a full compress test, on each cylinder with the throttle wide open. You need an assistant for this. Write down the results, for each cylinder. If all the readings are very low, then squirt a tablespoon of fresh engine oil down each cylinder & do compression test again. The colour & state of the plugs & their insulators will tell you a lot about the current combustion process in your engine. The compression test will tell you a lot about the state of valve seats & valves & rings. All cylinders should be within say 5-10 PSI of each other. Consistency between cylinder compression readings is more important than the actual compression number itself. A hack Corolla engine should be somewhere in the range of 120 PSI to 160 PSI, dependent on compression ratio & state of the rings & valve & valve seat conditions. You'll be surprised how much info can be gained by this simple test, and point you in the direction to help you solve your backfiring issue. Cheers Banjo

Hi Steve, There are several varieties of the Pajero MC. The differences are the outlet position for the front brakes. The model you need is a JB1712, which can be obtained on line at ebay. Cheers Banjo