philbey

Wow, this thread is now turning it's tone anti-Semitism..... Begin godwin's law countdown.

If the tailshaft was too long, you wouldn't have got it back together. It probably just needs to settle, even front ends do this when you first drop them. Hit a few level crossings at pace see if that helps.

You could use a megasquirt unit to datalog a bunch of sensors if you wanted. Suspension travel is a cool project, you could use linear potentiometers easily enough but you're probably looking at 200 bucks for a decent one last time I looked. Farnell and RS Components have them.

But it would be cheaper and easier just to drop a 5k in and get the engineering done.

Surely you get a cheat sheet for the trig identities...? It's puerile to make students remember stuff like that.

Actually, it makes no difference to us if they are a moderator or not. Don't name and shame anyone until you have given them a chance to rectify the situation in a timely manner. If that doesn't work, then contact the Admin/Mod team and we will do everything we can to fix it. As Matt mentioned, he was part of the successful effort to reclaim money from a serious scam that cost a number of people cash. Take a look here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/60030-refund-scammed-rolaclub-members/

the operative words here are "designed properly!!" I planned to design mine properly, I even started modelling it up to do a CFD analysis on it. Then I realised my time is worth more than 160 bucks haha and bought the uniflow unit... It's also got a slip cover on it as an extra level of protection over the main filter. And lets not forget.... the straight filter makes so much tasty induction noise :rock:

I think I paid 160 for mine. The airbox idea is possible and I considered it but to be honest you won't get as good performance as the complete filter unit as it will likely choke flow to back cyls.

I think that's done and dusted for RC. Pity, the kiwi's are already so much better than us when it comes to old school toyotas.... I thought this might be time for us to shine.....

publish all his PMs

Honestly I wouldn't be running a street car with those things. Also they're gonna make it a pan to tune because they'll choke the carby airflow. I run one of these http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d136.html I emailed uni flow and got one made to 36mm tall, it's a squeeze but it fits. I don't run trumpets under it but you could run 15mm ones if you wanted. I have a ke16 so that's the smallest gap of all the corollas.

No love people?

I would guess that you might get some noise etc without them; rubbing/squeaking etc. but on a 40 year old car, that's probably the least of your issues.

Shortened hilux LSD

Camshaft is easy enough to get made up, but they will have to grind from a blank, couldn't use a factory one. They just need to know how to index each lobe when they set it up in the grinder. Will still cost a bomb. I'm interested why one would bother with this in a car though. Bikes are hard coupled (ignoring cush drives) from the gearbox to the single driving wheel, so they are susceptible to torque pulses breaking traction. Bikes revving at 12000rpm will also get much higher pulse forces than a 7000rpm car, although this is offset by likely lighter pistons. (Incidentally, the link above has completely miscalculated crank torque due to piston speed) A car with even traction to both driving wheels means that the force of each pulse is HALVED at each wheel. Plus friction is a function of mass, so your car being heavier will have a higher friction force to overcome anyway. In other words, why put all the effort in using a cross plane crank to improve traction when you would be better off spending it on diff and suspension mods to acheive the same thing.

4500 for the crank. Wow. You could do a home job fitup of an R1 motor in the car for that price I reckon.

That stanford one is identical to the one in the pic on that trade tools site. How much is that omega one you posted?

Damn . Oh well.

Honestly. The Cheap Chinese ones from supercheapauto seem pretty robust for a workshop setup. Make sure they're built to an Australian standard, and always use stands etc under the car anyway. I would always go with a steel unit, not an alloy one.

If the width is the same should be a straightforward swap if you are capable of.swapping the mounts over. I do believe the 1200 is a very similar width to early corolla diffs, but don't take that as gospel.

Yo I want to run an original k40 box with the long gear lever in my wagon. Not a fan of the k55 box position. I've got a box lined up as a donor. But I'm thinking of trying to swap the k40 extension onto the back of my k50. Looks like it could work, anyone ver swapped them around? I'm guessing the shift rod might give me grief and I'll need to pull the box open.

I was thinking of pint penning my tyres, came up pretty nice!

Wgmg.... The damn caps on spraycans. Damn things are so bloody tight. The stupid screwdriver bit just tears open, and when you wrench it off by hand you run the risk of tearing the bloody nozzle out... Threw out a full can of etch primer the other day as a result....

Depending on how many they get made, you're looking at $300-400NZ according to Sheldon's similar post on club k. That's machined and studded. You will also need an adaptor plate which Sheldon could makeup as well, or get your own made.

That's a seriously competent panel beater there, what an amazing job he's done.