philbey

I pushed mine to 105mph, still in 4th, still with plenty of revs and another gear to go. When your 45 year old wagon feels like a zepplin approaching warp speed, that's as fast as you want to be going.

Dynamic compression my friend. I'm running about 12:1, big ass cam, huge lift, twin dellortos. My dyno clocked 68rwkw. MASSIVE. so not quite 100hp. But plenty amusing all the sam.

Toothed belts are the most efficient belt for those high-tech types chasing that 0.01% horsepower gain. that is until you dial the tension up so ridiculously high that your granny thinks a swarm of locusts has invaded her kitchen every time you drive past.

I reckon wedge belts and pulleys would probably be the best and most straightforward option...

Not really, if it's getting balanced that will make a world of difference, it'll rev up harder and be a lot smoother at 7k. Someone is surely gonna come in and tell you to knife edge your crank or something crazy. but don't bother just yet.

Your best bet is to go visit a spring maker with the unbroken spring from the other drum. They should have no probLem making ine up. Springs are cheap and easy to make. I reckon if you shop around, find a little grimy spring maker somewhere and get talking, you should be fixed up for under 50 bucks. Get a few made while your at it. To make one or ten will cost the same. All you need are the dimensions often spring and wire, and you can simply calculate the spring rate. Very basic. Try places like this optimumspring.com/ http://www.cookspring.com/products.html

Wreckers should have them no problems. They're common as muck, you should have no trouble finding one.

Sme 5k engines have one as well, it's a reduction gear starter. I've got one in mine, good bit of kit.

Forget the 202 lifters, get a set of crow cams 4220 duals.

First up, you must have them dynoed by someone who can tune them. Otherwise you just won't get the most out of them. I would get a dellorto book and step through the carby sizing. First issue thou, your chokes are too big for a 3k. I run 40s with a 28mm choke on a 5k, I might go up to 32mm chokes at some point for more top end. Bigger chokes give grief because air velocity is too slow and doesn't pull fuel through nicely. Your other specs don't sound too bad but I'd have to check. What is the letter after the dhla45 stamp? If its a g or h then they're probably later units that don't have manual balance circuits.

top work on the wheels. What'd the enkeis set you back, delivered?

80 degrees is normal operating temperature, you have nothing to really worry about. Your thermostat opens at 82 degrees , boiling point in your car is about 120 degrees. Remember that the pump doesn't control your temperature, the thermostat does. Same applies to Fans. Its a centrifugal pump, definitely not PD. When the thermo is closed and the pump is running, it just means that the pump is drawing power unnecessarily and 'dead heading' against the thermostat. You don't want it running all the time because you will eventually kill the pump. The motor is rated for 2000 hours at 80 degrees. When the temp is normal, the controller will only run the pump intermittently (10 seconds out of every 40) to keep water moving through the engine, to increase pump life. For a cheap and easy option, I would just drill a hole in the thermo and leave it running all the time. You could even whack a resistor in the motor circuit to bring it's speed down slightly if you wanted. then just replace the pump when it dies. Otherwise, the controller is pretty cool if you've got a spare 200 bucks, looks like you can run a fan off it as well. You'll get more life out of it.

So you can jam a v6 into your car willy-nearly, but you are forced to do a painful conversion to 5 stud.... Weird.

Well it's all relative... It's probably rare when compared to a BA falcon grille and is probably off a Japanese model ke20...

Back door tricks for extra hard... Brilliant.

Just make up some caltracs or spend the dosh to have them made they're basic and work.

*facepalm* *facepalm* *facepalm*

I've picked up both my 5k's, complete but dismantled, from here for 100 each. Patience and you will get good prices.

Haha. Ben, are you on that one?

Just swap the thermostat. I wouldn't even bother testing it, by the time you've pulled the old one out, you might as well just chuck a new one in for 12 bucks.

Use whatever you can get your hands on. I switched to a 5K reduction gear starter simply because my old one died and a mate had one spare. Otherwise, I've used the old 3K ones and the later 4K ones as well. I have a lot of compression and the 5K reduction gear seems to be the best, but they're harder to find. There wont be any difference in pinion gear, but the reduction units have a compact gearbox between the motor and pinion, which allows much greater starting torque with a smaller motor.

Trev cracked it the day we turned it on. Crafty bugger. So we had him killed..... (well I haven't seen him for a while so I assume we killed him) I reckon we need to fix manuel to autocorrect to manual. At least as far as I'm aware all these KE70's don't come with a free spanish butler.

Cracked block? It can be bloody hard to see the leak on a head gasket that's only freshly blown as well.

You talking about 2 stage fans parrot? Or using the actual temperature sender to give you some variability?

Why do you want to adjust the temperature anyway? Controlling this temperature range has little impact on the temp your engine runs at, it's only changing how hard the fan runs. I would recommend a thermoswitch with a temp range to match a similar range as the thermostat. This will vary depending on where your switch is located, but it's not hard and I can give you a hand. If you have your switch before the radiator, you probably want a higher temp unit (100+ degree switch). If your switch is after the radiator, use a lower temp unit (80-90 degree). double check these numbers against the thermostat range as well. The Tridon catalog has all the info you need to find a thermoswitch that works for you. http://www.tridon.com.au/databank/documents/CAT032-FCp67-128.pdf