LittleRedSpirit

I dunno what changed but the speed sensors working fine now also. Stoked. Didnt change anything.

So finally, silent brake calipers! No more squeak. I fitted my last spare caliper, and its perfect, it has absolute zero play, and I glued the pads in with disc brake quiet. Brakes feel more assertive than ever before and the handbrake doesn't feel stretchy any more. Leads me to believe that a lot of the issues I had with the handbrake were related to the calipers twisting on themselves. Pretty poor design really, and seems like more of an issue on the lhs. I also cut off a bunch of terminals and redid some crimps and just got rid of some generally shit 30 year old power feeds. Seems to start better, time will tell if this fixes the intermittent failure to start I'm experiencing occasionally.

I was liking it before the paintjob but that really looks good, shame some of it goes under the water. don't forget to give it a name on the side before the maiden voyage.

Speed sensor works, getting some electrical noise in it though but it is somewhat functional. Ill try the resistor mod that Adaptronic recommend, which is just a resistor between 2 pins of the ecu plug, cas ground and MVSS (master vehicle speed sensor). Should be easy to do, Ill test it just by poking it in and then Ill crimp it in permanently if it works as intended. Failing that I might go to a shielded wire for it.

I love school holidays. :lolcry:

I had intentions of helping, until you and your vast knowledge at 16 began to shut the people helping you down... Such as your comment, "Doubt it..." Why exactly did you doubt the temp sensor? Seems like a prime suspect to me, going off what you said about the symptoms. Please explain why that suggestion wasn't worth pursuing? Come one, I'm waiting. You are the one shutting people down and wasting their time, I can assure you of that. Personally, if I just spent $700 servicing a car and got it back doing that, Id be straight down there to see what the f@$k they did to it and make them fix it. Help yourself. Try things, or if you'd rather stop wasting your time you could get it to a scan tool. Thats all the help you need.

Nice work on the boat. That represents a lot of hours.

Bumper and gaurd we can help you with. Diagnosing a random issue on an XR8 we cannot. What do you expect of us? We could send the rollaclub helicopter with a crack team of FPR supercar techs, and their electronic studio of scanners, dataloggers and telemetry equipment, but I don't know where I left the keys to the helicopter. Sorry. Will update if I find them. :rolls: If you own an XR8 and cannot be bothered to fix it, or are unable to drive it alone for a distance of 70klms, its time to switch to public transport. WA is a big state, Australia is a massive country. If 60klm is in the too hard basket there is no hope. I can assure you its inconvienient for anyone when they have to see a mechanic. I can't see, at 16 years of age, anyone having such a high pressure job that they cannot be absent for the 1 hour it will take to deliver the car. Once again, you haven't and will not do anything to help yourself. There will be a mechanic closer than 70klms I'd assume. Why not take it there? Anyone with a scan tool can find your problem! In most likely 5 minutes. Join a Ford forum and ask them if you must persist with internet drivel diagnosis. They may care, maybe not. If this is why you left, because people were short with you about your FORD and its easily found issues, then why come back? I'm all for encouraging new members but you have to understand, we get people all day who ask the same three questions. Why does my car not work properly and how do I fix it, how much is my crapbox worth, and how to setup a ke70 for drift yo. Its unstimulating enough when its a Toyota they refer to, but a Ford, come one man. At least Holden shared models with Toyota, but Ford. Thats like asking an eskimo how to survive in the desert.

You're here asking vague questions cause you don't know, people are making suggestions as you asked for, and you just shut them down. Without testing their ideas. You have stated you clearly have access to a scan tool to test the efi, which is the best and only sensible way to go unless you are going to swap every sensor and test one by one. And judging by the above response, you clearly do not want to help yourself by actually trying anything. Couple that with the fact you can go scan the car whenever and you arent, leads me to only one response. Stop wasting our time with this crap. Looks like yet another case of I'm too tight to pay for a mechanic syndrome from another person with a big car they cannot afford. Ill give one bit of advice only. Sell the ford tank and buy a Corolla.

Ecu Data scan is a winner. Its hooked up and just roughly mounted to the dash, and the speed sensor is wired in, so just need to fire up the laptop and calibrate it to make that work I think, it just displays zero but I need to enter a value to activate it on the ecu menu. Also did away with some dodgy wiring, but noticed that the Kellam loom from kaizen garage is falling apart even more than before, I reckon it will drop an injector one day soon enough, as the crimps are shit on the ecu end pins.

Yeah and learning.

Just got the ECUdatascan in the post yesterday. Tested it with the standard obd 2 cable on my girlfriends 09 Lancer, works a treat. Then plugged it onto the adaptronic ecu, works a treat, although it needs a seperate power supply, but thats only 2 wires! Easier than a stezza! I'm stoked, there is this awesome dashboard for the thing, that has a graph like an ekg with 3 variables in different colours on the graph, its very interesting. Its pretty awesome in that you can set it to alert at any point and you can configure the maximum for each gauge, so no 11000rpm tacho on a car that spins to 6 for example. You can also shift the alert points, the redlines, if you will of each value. Its mad. Also plays mp3 and mp4 and comes with a 2 gig sd card for such amusements. Also, if you load a program on the SD card it will function as a point to point gps. Mad shit! You can even design your own laps as such from GPS data and then superimpose it over a google map and look up your data from an exact point on the track if you log things. It will function like a Gtech but it only goes off the speed sensor. Its a bit innacurate since wheelspin will upset the data. So today I'm fitting a digital speed sensor and wiring that, I'm also going to try and hook up the narrow band o2 sensor I have had installed for some time, and then while I'm wiring shit I will most likely make my purge canister controlled by the computer too.

enjoy

Ive bought several different brands. I still use 40 year old Sidchrome stuff that dad gave me, I have new sidchrome 1/2 drive sockets and spanners. The sockets rock but the spanners are shitty. They are the long reach ones, and the 12mm is jacked, the jaws have opened up enough that it can slip. I don't rate their shit anymore. that was with fairly appropriate use too. Ive got a Force slide hammer and balljoint seperation attachment for it, a toledo diff syringe, force impact driver, flare nut spanners, and 1/2 inch drive allen keys. Its amazing stuff dor the money. Chinese I think but its really good. I was tempted by their spanners but barely was able to resist. I don't think one brand makes the best evertything. I like SP ratchets, I have 3/8 and 1/2. I prefer Urwin vice grip tools. Just depends what your buying. My Warren and Brown Torque wrench is great. Highly reccomended.

Well that technique was tasught to me by a mechanic that I rate highly. Also, if you have a lot of time to spare, you can leave them slightly cracked and just let the fluid run through the lines before you finish the bleed, it will take care of a lot of the air. Just make sure you have only just cracked the line or you will lose all your fluid too fast. The worst thing you can do is jump on and start smashing the pedal up and down. I wouldn't be doing anything rough on the pedal until the system has some pressure, as you can damage your MC badly, especially if its old. Some people just don't get it at all. I had a guy from the next shed over at work do the pedal bit for me. Gave me the shits in a big way, as once I asked him to help me bleed by doing the pedal while I crack the lines, he just jumped straight in the car and before I said anything, he smashed the brake pedal about 5 times, pumped almost all the fluid straight out of the system and sprayed it all over the cars underbody, before I even had my spanner in my hand. I'm like stop stop stop and he's pumping away going "man your pedal is shit" I'm like just f@$king stop you moron. This was a guy who claimed to be mechanically minded and volunteered to help as he knew all about it allegedly. I was ready to f@$king kill him. So I had to top up the fluid, and start over and thankfully my MC was new enough to take the flogging he gave it.

If youre doing it alone, just barely crack the nipple and slowly pump down and really slowly come up, as in take a good 10 seconds to lift the pedal. if you do this right, the gravity will be able to stop you sucking air back in through the nipple when you lift, which is what happens when there is nobody there to tighten the nipple before you lift. Do it slow enough and the suction wont overpower the weight of the fluid dripping through the lines. Then tighten the nipple, and test the pedal. Repeat until you are happy with the feel. If you've done major work you can bleed the brakes at each corner, plus also at the Master cylinder by cracking the lines where they attach.

Kudos on receiving criticism well. Most people in your position would be sooky by now. There may well be a good reason why there are no ke70s around with this motor. Its not like the motor just came out, Ford has had a roughly 4 litre six inline since before I was born and I'm 30. Its not like the motor just came out, people have had time to think this through, and decided not to d it. Being original is fantastic but I would never invest that kind of money unless I knew I could get more value out of what I build, or at least keep it OTR. If you want to go silly with big motors in an old car, buy a ke20 (or a corolla that is at least 30 years old), rego as a hotrod, and cram a 289 or 351 in it. Drive on Sundays, at least you'd get out in the sunshine without the added expense of a personal airstrip or tow vehicle and trailer. Do you really have the kind of coin that can see you running a rig to tow a built performance car. I know some people who can, they own trucking companies, computer wholesalers and run large companies most times. I have support for ambition but its a fine line between ambition and overextending what you can actually achieve. The project you describe would need more resources than most could find, that's for sure Its expensive enough to run my moto, drive 3 hours into the bush, pay to ride, fuel, camping, food, then the cost of the bike in the first place and the vehicle to shift it, the rego on the 6 cylinder ute isn't cheap, the riding gear, then the maintenance on the bike, things wear out or you break them. Itd be a much more expensive and difficult proposition to get to the same point in a ke70 like you say. The chassis itself would need good reinforcing, a cage, tunnel and firewall mods, tubbing if you get serious, has to be 5 grand in preparing that. You could do it on the cheap but you be disappointed with the result I think, and youd make a death trap without good seats, harnesses, cage etc, and that motor would need to be secured really well! don't wnat that in your lap, since it will be poking into the occupant area quite a bit.

Agreed. 1jzgte/ggte 2jzgte rb25/26/det bmw even, some nice straight 6s there, and slanted which might lower your Cog. Also, the building of a Ford 6 to take boost would be required, Id be looking at something which was already rwd and has its own integrated turbo setup from the factory. Imagine what the turbos to boost a 4 litre might cost to buy... (to4z $2000 new) A lot more than the 300 dollars the motor costs, its not a great direction to attack from. If its important to save money by starting with a 300 dollar driveline, how are you going to spend $10000 to do the car nicely? Maybe if you were in a seriously remote area and had to make do with what you can find or at least get easily, but in Brisbane, look around, there are lighter, more powerful motors with more rpm available and more scintilating performance, especially when transplanted in a rolla. It does seem that your priorities are a bit odd with such specific visual details in your plans list, but not a lot of nitty gritty tech info or research. List what each costs, realistically, and then reasses whether its worth starting it at all with a Ford motor, considering the rebuild it will need, the cost of the turbo, most likely manifolds in and out to accommodate the smaller than Falcon bay, piping, fabrication, tuning, wiring, an ecu to tune it with, the clutch you list is a grand aswell, Does a T5 really handle the kind of power and torque a turbo 4 litre would make? I thought they were about a rough equal to a w55/7/8? You might as well go full cage if you want to live after any kind of accident, it would be seriously powerful and taily to drive, The diff would be close to a grand to shorten alone, then the cost of the locker and the work to build it. To get your falcon 5 stud you can use a hopper stoppers kit and then get au calipers, but thats 1500 dollars and you still need to sort the master cylinder, Id assume you would use a falcon one with a shorten falcon diff and au calipers, but still theres some more work and fabrication. A lot of these birds could be flattened with just a few stones if you put more planning into it.

OK, so I was tempted and I just dropped $600 on an ecudatascan. Gotta have a legal car with a working speedo, especially with these cameras coming in that do you for 2klm/hr over. Heres the link... http://www.ecudatascan.com.au/ great bit of kit, works with a serial connection to an aftermarket ecu or a dignostic port.

Thanks Jon. I removed and swapped over my left rear calliper to get rid of the noise it was making. Its all fixed now. I think one day soon I might get my pads stuck into my calipers with Disc Brake Quiet. The front pads move around a little in the wilwoods and one rear one squeaks a little. Having put some more miles on the car now with the 4.5s, its awesome. Being shorter gears you can put around in tall gears at low speeds. If you want to go fast, its best to be pretty aggressive with the revs, but you can keep the revs between 5500 and 7500 really easily in and out of corners etc. Its a lot more drivable and pulls hard in high gears. You have to watch it in the wet, though, its a bit more inclined to spin wheels and slide all over. Thankfully, I have reverted to a stock sway-bar with fairly worn D bushes on it, the only Nolathane bushes attached to the rear sway-bar are the ones on the mounts vertical rod that bolts to the car, the other 2 pairs are soft old rubber ones and the rear end rolls and absorbs a lot of the stresses of cornering, even in the wet, its improved the grip while turning a lot, by adding a little extra body roll. I love body roll, in small, precisely managed doses. So I guess the next thing is to tidy the interior up a little and then paint some more of it. Maybe polish the wheels, find a nice brown chequered back seat, to replace the shitty faded grey velour seat. I'm also considering buying an ecu data scan to give an accurate speedo, I still have a Hilux mechanically driven/electronically read speed sensor here that screws into my gearbox and outputs 4 pulses per revolution, it will work fine for a speedo on the ECU datascan, as now it reads 110 at 100.

Well, oversteer anyhow. I'm not saying it wont be fun, just a bloody handful if you try to drive for time around corners, it would certainly drag well.

It will never be a street car. Sounds like a car that wont steer well. May as well go a 2jz. Buy a non turbo one and boost it. As Ive often said, just because its cheap/available isnt a good reason to toss a motor in something. If you must have 6 cylinders and a mass produced cheap as shit motor use a Buick V6 from a commodore as it will do a better job of placing the weight on or behind the front wheels. probably not what a ford man wants to hear, though.

Anyone going out tonight? I'm kinda considering it.

Sorry Ive just realised we are both peddling which is against the rules. Lets steer the discussion back to the doing of this front end conversion instead. :lolcry:

The borg warner has an inspection plate that bolts on from the rear, the jap has a centre that bolts in from the front. The borg warners fit together by interferance I think. There is a tool you use to expand the haousing a few thou to slot it together, wheras the jap style bolts together. I think people refer to the borg style of assembly as a salisbury diff and the jap style as a banjo diff.