LittleRedSpirit

Priced up ceramic top cover treatment. $120-150. Not too bad, reckon Ill go with that. Needs 7-10 days to get it done, anyone have a 20v top cover spare that I can borrow for a week or 2? I just had a play with the tune once again, my economy is almost where I want it, performance is increasing. The adjustments I made then were designed to give a better surge from 4500rpm to 7000rpm. Definately achieved some good results. Ive also been focussing on working out a flat spot at 3500-4000rpm, its not really flat, it just builds better on the map above and below. Ive made some adjustments, and it seems better, but I will need some decent highway miles to really tell. Its all good fun!

If you can make a woman act in a sensible fashion without learning everything the hard way, please show me how.

Bring it to the shed Ill have a look at the board in the tacho and see how it matches mine. Did you swap the resistor and the capacitor? You will find the tacho control settings under the first tab in the software, triggering modes, then the button for setting up triggering. There is a drop down menu for ignition 3 output and should be set to tachometer 50%dc. You might need to ring Anthony and see if he set your ignition up as full sequential like he was supposed to for me but didn't. If he has done this ignition 3 output would be used for ignition and as such he would have run a tacho wire from a different place, probably an auxillary output. Send me your map and Ill see what he has done if you want.

Been thinking about redoing the top cover on the 20v. I'm thinking either clean off the paint and polish it to a shiny chrome finish or powdercoat it to a mettallic colour. Ideas? Anyone done their 20v top cover in a nice finish they can show me? I'm not a fan of black crinkle coat, so please don't suggest that.

Sorry mate, the only set Ill have spare is my stretched set from the ae71, I got 2 cars with ae86 diffs that need handbrake cables.

Ae86 ps arms will bolt straight to xt130 strut tubes.

So now have a few more bits to put it back together. I've arranged for it to be painted and paid for that, got new handbrake cables, mirrors, radiator cap, timing belt and tensioner, gasket kit for the t50, diff bung and cam seals. Still need a bonnet, hatch, drivers seat in mooroon, and door trims. Getting there slowly I guess.

120 us plus shipping. I bought both of his sets.

The accepted norm is XT130 Corona. They give, dependant on ride height (edit: and how bent your chassis is), -0.7 to -1.6 Camber. You will find in practicality, one side will be different to the other if you do not have adjustable tops to equalise it. My red car was close to straight but my current white ae71 has about .4 degree difference in the adjustment needed to correct it. If you use Sigma LCA instead, you get more camber, in the order of 3 degrees, but in most peoples opinion I've spoken to, and my own, they give too much camber for the street, I believe you are better off using a combination of corona lca and camber tops to achieve -2 to -2.5 or so (for a lowered car). There is such a thing as too wide when you consider the relationship between wheelbase and track width, IMO.

Just fitted one of those awesome reduction gear late model starters to this car, she sounds like a Hilux when it turns over now, its awesome. Its a good design to with the electrical connections between the block and the starter to keep them away from the heat of the headers.

There is a table in that manual which will help you choose the right oil. If its warm where you are don't be afraid to go a little thicker, I'm running Penrite 15w/60 in my silvertop. Its running great on it. I'm in Brisbane where its pretty warm, I go back to 10w in winter usually.

Buy a manual like the rest of us do. Id have thought an electrician with 8 years experience could afford one, or maybe could afford more precise tools than a sledgehammer. I asked you what you wanted to be rid of. Seems you don't even know. I can suggest removing the ignition, all lights and gauges, theres some really heavy wires from the starter to the battery, and from the battery to the car body. You can cut them out, no wait, use a sledge hammer, oh actually, use an engine crane to lift the car off the starter cable, thats how Michael Schumaker works on his Ferrari in his backyard. Have a good one. :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:

So youre only going to save 3-5kgs maximum after all this brutality. I say go back to U pull it, buy stock wiring and refit. If you want to remove bits make sure you do it with some planning and forethought. IE work out what you want to remove, then how becomes obvious. I don't think anyone will be able to tell you wire for wire what to cut and where. I assume its never going on the street again? If its going on the street leave it all alone. What do you want to remove exactly? You need head and tail lights and blinkers, wipers are handy things, interior light is very small. Its not like there is kilometers of wire to the power windows, mirrors, massaging seats, air purifier, on board semithermalhyperconductive reactor or mobile robot workshop. Its a vintage corolla. Looks kinda like you've butchered it and will spend the next week or 2 un-butchering it and paying for parts which are getting more expensive each time someone needlessly destroys some.

Just received an ebay care package of genuine bits for the ae86. Some disc rear end handbrake cables, stickers for the diff and the timing cover, and a new diff drain bung. Gotta love the exchange rate.

It doesnt move, and occasionally flickers when you turn something electric on like wipers, lights etc.

works good!

Snow plough? Epic lip. Looks insane. :blinks:

and I thought I was being stealthy. I made a trip up to Oakey to go to my accountant. Signed off on 2 years of tax returns and bas documents. Where did you guys see me? Old fella that was probably the most photographic detail ever delivered in a spotted thread response. Well done. :laff:

Thanks, I just hope the mod helps a few others. I noticed today right at the top of the rpm band you will find the tacho doesnt quite keep up with where I know the motor is, but I also need to adjust it a little more upwards, so will report how it behaves after that. It really is working brilliantly on the whole. I might make a video of it and put it up.

Sweet deal she already has the W57, 1J will be mental. Needs a shot of dish, stat! Bit of work to be done with the scalpel but she will heal up in no time. :dance:

Its a classic question, mod the 4a or chase big numbers with a different motor. Its more of a heart and soul question. Do you want to keep the car original? If so a worked ge would be the go. If that's out the window I think something interesting could be done. I'm still keen to see a v6 2/1/4grfe corolla be born... I would highly recommend a standalone ecu as its only going to suck to daily drive if its tuned poorly. I've done a lot of work on my 20v maps to make the car have excellent manners in traffic, its basically detuning the first couple of steps of the tps so the thing wont snap the driveline on off like a light switch. Now with some effort and experimentation its as easy to drive as any stock car, and you can let the revs roll right down to idle in any gear and it wont shudder as the torque drops off. A standalone will also stand you in good stead no matter what you do. Adaptronic is my choice because it is easily user configurable to almost any specification. You buy it once and go car to car with the thing once you have it. Its an investment in enjoying any car you own the way I see it.

Heres the video I shot the other day when we got it idling.

Heres a couple of photos to illustrate how I did it. Before After

Well guess what! I made my tacho work today, and not just work, but function perfectly. I did a mod to the circuit board in the tacho itself. The AE71 has a variable resistor from the factory, so with this you can wind the reading up and down to calibrate. I changed this resistor to one with more variation (0-12kohm replaced with 0-15kohm). I don't know if this part was strictly necessary, but It allows a lot of adjustment. I also swapped a capacitor, and I swapped one other resistor, from a 30kohm value to a 15kohm value. Ill write up a how to for everyone with electronic ignition so you can get your tachos working aswell. Would this be helpful to anyone? I'm not aware of anyone with this kind of ignition who has actually made the tacho work in an xe71 dash.

Agree with Dave, the point surely must be enhanced handling and safety while driving. Otherwise what is the point? Looks. Too much stretch is ridiculous to look at. If you want the stretch look but can only afford sub 6 inch rims, you better keep saving for a few more weeks and buy something you can stretch at least a 195 onto.