LittleRedSpirit

3277 2566 Rocklea Mechanical Brian is his name. can't go wrong. Tell him Matt with the Corolla sent you.

I think your on the right track.

That looks really good mate.

Its unsafe don't do it.

Hell yeah looks great, brad. can't wait till the fwd vs rwd 20v race.

You asked for opinions, don't like my opinion, no need to get snippy (or ask in the first place). If you just wanted a chorus of "yeah man do it to get pimp status", you came to the wrong place. I put real effort into that reply, which i now regret. Remind me to leave threads like this alone in future.

Weighing up what you gain: Perceived customness Perceived cooleness factor Smooth lines Against what you lose: Ease of filling. Factory legal looking car that will not attract attention. Need for custom fabrication. Boot space For me Id never do it. You will get fuel fumes in the cabin if the filler is located inside, as Ive not seen a fuel tank on a 30 year old car yet that didn't pass a slight bit of fuel vapour past the cap. The only way it will be fumeless is if you retain the rubber seal around the neck to the car body and let the fumes breath to the exterior. If you go putting it right in the rear dead centre of the car or even more crazy behind a tailight, you will have placed it in a more common place to be crashed into. I think thats not a good idea. When I got rear ended I was within 1 centimeter of having my fuel tank popped and only reason i didn't was because I had the tow bar installed. If my filler was there I would have compromised the tank for sure. I like smooth lines on a car too, but I don't really try to change how the car was made, it is what it is. If your worried about how the fuel filler looks there are a bunch of other things that need visual attention before you should be getting that picky. If you want to clean up the look of it, panel beat it really well, paint it a factory colour, black out the door frames, tint the windows darkest legal and remove unnecessary trinkets from the car such as toys hanging off it, extra antennas, aftermarket chrome crap, pointless oversized taillights that block rearward vision, foglights that don't suit it at all, too many stickers, towball, louvre, or worse still louvre spoilers that people cut down, dodgy boot spoilers or bright coloured crap in the interior. don't even get me started on checkerplate... I see too many cool cars here that are just over the top with how much crap is hanging off them Even super decent cars that just look like they are junked up with crap. Just because an accessory is made for a car, is not a reason to attach it. I prefer mods that enhance the driving experience, even if they are invisible to the naked eye.

Check all your cables. ground cables, positive starter cable, the starter trigger wire. Clean their contact points then reattach them, but check their resistance also. Make sure the battery has enough demineralised water if its not holding enough charge. The regulator for the alternator might be stuffed. Once the car is running check the battery voltage, if its over 14 volts the reg might be stuffed if its the separate type that isn't built onto the alternator.

Yep Rob. Nice ae71 he has.

Was driving around for work this morning and had the pleasure of driving with this nice AE71 that I found out lives just down the road from me.

Blacktop throttles will hurt the power unless you go searching for it with cams. I would prescribe 4-2-1 with the correct port crossover, with large diameter and long primarys, a good quality metal cat, merge collector, Mandrel exhaust in stainless steel or titanium, 1mm oversize valves, delete vvt, 300+duration and as close to 10mm lift as you can get. Better to start with a blacktop head unless you plan to extensively port the silvertop inlets to match the blacktop throttles. Get some variable length trumpests happening in a custom box too. Better dry sump it while youre at it. They are an expensive motor to modify. You can tune them with exhaust and different trumpets. An aftermarket ecu will help you find gains once you start getting away from 'standard' equipment. Cost you around 1500 minimum to get some camshafts for it, and have the head re shimmed to suit. Most likely more in the end with a new hg and the other work you will end up doing. don't go past about 272 from memory or you will have to delete the vvt. It just means changing cam pulleys and blocking an oil gallery I think.

I'm there, its probably 1 minutes drive from home. I have a few buddies around here who might show, one guy with a sprinter, and another sky fleet mechanic with an ae71. These things are so much fun, I just hope everyone does there best to organise themselves between now and then, as its a lot more fun when more corollas show up and in good order. See youse there, I love youse all. Also should try and get Spilmer, 20v Wagonater, and a few of the quieter members to pop in.

They look amazing in real life.

Cheers mate already found most of what I need, might be bits and pieces to get Ill let you know.

Yes I prefer the notchback but you gotta take what you can get with ae86s. Its really just to save it and sell it to someone with an appreciation of what a complete and classy car is.

xt 130 steering arms are only 4mm longer than ae86. 137 & 133mm. Less lock, but not much less. Ke70 ones are about 126mm but do not fit the strut of course. xt 130 struts have a fixed caliper mount that shares bolt spacing with many calipers also.

Hi guys, I picked up this car from ebay last week. Its a pretty untidy car but with a weekends cleaning, welding and then paint it will be excellent. Specs are as follows: ADM AE86 chassis. Bigport engine ADM t50 Kaizen pipes Cut and shit manifold AE86 JDM diff with discs and lsd JDM tailshaft RCI fuel cell - 30 litres 2 litre surge tank Carter lift pump VL turbo pump Koni yellow rear shocks cambertops and camber pins Spare smallport with manifolds came with it Couple sets of mags ADM bumpers with a lip Race seat - aluminium bucket with removable liner, very comfy actually. ADM Brakes The seller claimed the diff and motor was rebuilt but yet to be confirmed. he also said the front struts were trd but I havent confirmed this, they are non adjustable is all I know. Came with a Microtech to suit some other car and its wired for it. Has most of the interior minus stock seats and its in a bit of a sorry state. The shell is mod plated to 2 seater capacity already. Not for the engine or diff tho but thats a formality with this setup. Plans: Strip and clean the shell. Rust repair and paint the shell, colour change to peak white 2pak, might even get a kit for it but we will see. Return to a more original state with some normal interior and stock front seats. Rewire to suit stock bigport computer. Sell it once its done and all legal etc. Ditch race fuel system and install a jdm ae86 fuel tank. I'm a fixer not a destroyer, so even though I could make a lot parting it I will be resurrecting it and giving it some love.

That is amazing. This car will fly. Where can I get some scales like that?

I loled. Classic. :rolls:

Looks great mate, will be awesome in fresh white. Definately needs an outomotive oncologist though. On the cut springs idea... Nobody except Dave has touched on whats really the worst part about cut springs. The spring is usually wound to a shape that flattens out at the end to give excellent contact and ability to stay in the spring seat. When you cut them, they usually just sit on one point, so then its a whole lot different the way it behaves and you have basically cut the slightly progressive rate part of the spring off. You now have reduced resistance to bottoming and also reduced contact with the diff. Now you have two things to be worried about. I will concede that my paddock car has had cut springs under it at a rather low height for some time, and we drove it hard enough to snap both shock absorbers off at the bottom bush cups and did a couple laps even bouncing through a gully at about 50klm/hr on just springs, and they never fell out, but thats not to say they wouldn't, I'm sure it would just take the right (or wrong?) bump and you'd be in trouble. More to the point is, if you do cause an injury or death, and believe me this does happen all too often, then you can't be insured and the person you hurt will get screwed by you declaring bankruptcy because you cannot pay if the insurer works it out. Plus it drives way better with the right springs in it, cutties are always bouncy. Youll survive rolling around the suburbs but don't go on the highway and expect to keep all your tyres inflated and your spine intact.

I remember seeing that engine sitting there with the box attached at your place years agao, when I first got some parts of you Stuart. I wanted it too but could only afford panels. :P

KE70 dave will tell you all about it, and why its not worth changing.

Top secret but for you Dave, Ill share. don't tell anyone. 3.6 caster. 2.2 camber.

Go for it.

Cheers.