LittleRedSpirit

Yes and yes.

pics of rims please.

Yes I believe the rona brakes suit 14s. Yes the strut is the same, just the brakes are different on the 2 piston ones. Use the steering arms that come on the struts you buy. XT 130 is the same pattern as ae86 anyhow so you can do the aftermarket options or use ps arms to get more lock if need be.

I can feel the difference in cut rears, have you driven with a similar height properly wound spring to compare with?

I reckon just do it once and do it right, well 4 times. Strip em all down and clean them, fix any damage, and roll in style.

Youll be right, its no big deal, youre just doing a little more refurbishing than you planned.

The problem isnt the wheel. Its obviously a 3 piece rim that is siliconed together. You need to break the silicon, clean it all off and redo it. Or failing that you broke the stem when the centre came loose and that need changing. A tube is not the answer. Some pictures would help. Or send them to Mungi Mods to be welded up. Incidentally most welded wheels have a bead of silicon over the weld just incase of pinholes.

Swaybars aren't really needed unless you are looking to slide or tune the under/oversteer but there are quite a few ways to do that. New bushings everywhere so it all works as it should is the first thing. Obviously do not buy the ones that come with the whiteline bits you will end up buying. Then definately strut braces, and get some ultra racing under fender braces. The ae86 ones fit. Id also get an adjustable panhard rod, and adjustable upper trailing arms as that is all you need to turn the diff over, which is another way you can play with under/oversteer at the rear, and tune the traction under acceleration. Id also recommend a very good set of dampers. Id suggest doing it once and doing it right and making a setup based on xt130 corona struts, since they are smoother rolling on a bigger bearing and stub axle. They also have a bigger rotor and a twin piston calliper option on the wagons and import only models such as rt132, which is the lift back version. The other thing that will tweak and improve the dynamics is an lsd diff. The way is powers out of corners is totally different.

Here is a clue. http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/catalog/Chevrolet/Chevy4-1961-87.htm

Yes all of those things should fit. Are you getting the whole kit? HD front is not really required, usually just a source of understeer. Neither is rear unless you want to drift. AE86 front swaybars are slightly different, they make some for ke70 which will suit better afaik. AE86 front swaybar will fit but you will have to bash the stone tray.

Ive not done a whole lot. Just fixed a dent and secured some things better in the engine bay. For Idle control I just have an adjustable tap at the moment, its actually working really well and yay, no wires. Thanks hardie pope.

You can leave the booster sitting there with all the lines done up, it will just sit there onece the pedalbox is removed, you need to remove a lot of the underdash shit to get the pedal assembly out, however. Drill small holes to start so theres a chance you can move them. there is a raised roughly diamond shaped bit of firewall where you need to put the clutch master, so just make sure that is clear and do not spend ages removing things you don't need to. :glare:

use the pedalbox to show you where to centre the holes, you have to guess the first stud after that its easy. I assume you mean master cylinder and not booster in most of what you have written. The car will already have a booster there.

Looking good David, i love the drift pics. :laff:

Thanks mate, I just cannot believe how many useless people there are in the auto trades. Haha I dunno what car you saw but it has a few dents. Cheers though mate its was nice to meet you guys. My girlfriend clipped the car in the backyard 9 hours after TWF tried to ruin his ea on it at the dinner, its still unharmed from both incidents. The ea and the gfs Lancer didn't fare as well. Yeah Id consider redoing the brown, there are a few beautiful brown rollas due to come out of the woodwork later this year however.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddVDRJDJsT8&feature=player_embedded

Congrats Trevvy !!! :lolcry:

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208693 You may find this thread interesting. Cool car. :blinks:

Heres a few photos...

Lol at rookie mistake. Its not often you get away with those...

I'm in if people are wondering whether I am or not.

The tapers should be the same either side, just get the right lines and it should work, provided you do not have a damaged caliper now. Hope its ok for you. Cheers.

I can show you the car. No worries. I just lost my license though so I think you will have to come and see it under your own steam, and neither of us will be allowed to drive it. lol.

OK its been a while. Sorry to anyone who noticed this thread missing. There is a long story that goes along with it but not really something I will discuss here. Ask me what was going on face to face if you want, but I'm moving on from it and now moving forwards with the car. I have just fitted the near new koni yellow shocks to the rear end that came in the ae86 I bought. Its such a big step up over the trd greens I cannot believe it. I also bought a new set of rear shock rubber for them in Nolathane, part numbers I could share if my girlfriend hadnt for about the millionth time thrown away something I wanted to keep without asking me. Same as vb commodoore anyhow, in stock at most places and the top and bottom bushes cost in total 20 bucks. Not a bush many people upgrade but well worth it and easy to fit. I just got some adjustable upper trailing arms, they are street legal ones from whiteline that are on car adjustable and have nolathane either end. Will fit them soon.

Something in the valve train.