LittleRedSpirit

Doing well mate. How do you stage the nos?

I vote for perfromace mesh, not the pole position mesh like I used to have 2 sets of, but the flatter style like I saw on a Corona at the wreckers one time. Same outers tho. Usually they will say perfromance on them inside somewhere. I dare say they are aussie made. You most likely will not find the japanese industrial hallmark on them.

lol. pic for you dave.

The cars are just overrated, thats all there is to it, there is one tiny nick in the passenger front one, but nothing that cannot be fixed. The car will be 2paked in original peak white AA.

Some photos. Ive decided I'm going to get this car 2 paked soon.

I get a semi looking at mine... Nah seriously, I gave up on wheels after they road tested the w427 in a shootout with some ridiculous 6.3 litre supercharged merc saloon worth 3 times the price. Get in touch with reality wankers. Imagine the old guy who got fired from Aussie Top Gear, thats the kind of self loving baby boomer wanker that reads wheels.

I just got a decent camera for a change! Finally!

As usual the answer is they are cheap. Why else would people use crap stuff? Nobody here thinks drift teks are any good either. like you said, they are all junk.

Hey Sloth. Been thinking about the perfromance issues I read about in the other thread. Maybe you should try and clean up the oil system as best you can if it needs it. I know my Silvertop was very sludgy when I got it, I litterally spooned some out of the head. It was disgusting. I also cleaned the sump out when the motor was out of the car. I left the vvt Solenoid alone and just changed its oil very often. The motor makes 84rwkw, so I can't complain about how it goes. Its better now with some tuning. So anyhow, now that I see the oil pressure switch failed, that seems odd. If the vvt was also playing up you would still have a good topend, and most likely make more power than what youre showing. Is vvt being turned off at the right point? Maybe it isnt shutting off? Did you do anything to clean the motor up in case there are contaminants in there that are ruining things that run on oil pressure, vvt possibly, it also seems rare to have a pressure switch fail and spew oil. The pressure switch is something that can be sourced at any repco as its the same as most 4as and Id just get a socket and swap it myself if I were you, then you can have the car back instantly. If you can undo and do up one bolt you will be fine. Keep the old one and have a look at how it failed and why perhaps. The ticks and pops at differnt rpms you hear are usually more about how your inlet projects sound than anything else. My Blacktop quads had a deeper note than my silvertop ones, at different rpm they whistle, or crackle, or roar. Its something you adapt to fast enough. Unless said ticking is congruent with some distinct performance loss Id not be too confronted by it. Also, how healthy are your coils and plugs. If you didnt use iridiums it will run like poop most likely. I saw you used some old second hand coils, early 90s coils would have to suck by now. Might be worth getting the same set but brand new and seeing how that goes. You have a big old ground cable to connect the motor and body? Fuel pressure doesnt seem like an issue if you have good afr for the most part. How is the clutch working? Will it drop a skid and boot you in the butt if you dump it in first? Its gotta be something wierd, do you have a good set of secondaries after your factory primary's and what size exhaust pipe is used?(edit just read 2 and 1/4. should be good for decent power. 2.5 is too big IMO Headers look very nice.)

As usual the difference is mainly experience of manufacturing and metallurgy. Ive noticed a lot of the cheaper wheels that imitate japnese style wheels are just inferior grades of alloy. From experience Ive seen a fair few buckled or dinged rims, and the jap multi piece rims that these styles copy will, just like David has said, still be damaged in an accident but remain on the car at least, where a cheaper product might have just failed completely. Ive seen some pretty massive bucles on the inner or the outer of a wheel and with some machining, rolling and welding the wheel is at least serviceable for the most part, and indeed not a total write off (which breaks the set of course). So Id have Japanese wheels for this reason. Id always look for wheels with the Japanese industrial hallmark on them.

The point is do as much research as possible, pop off the top cover to check for sludge if you can't find any documents. You can find ways to rebut what I say all day but you asked us remember. If your not going to take it in, make an attempt at least. Straight from Japan could mean it will be trashed and thrashed or babied and loved, you just don't know till you see it and asses it. There are actually people in this world who can translate Japanese to English, i don't know if you are aware of this...

Id have one for a daily. A lot of the time people literally cannot give the parts away once they buy a motor or halfcut and do a rwd conversion. You will easily be able to find cooling system parts, looms and ecus, gaskets thanks to castle hill toyota and the like. Also starter motors go pretty cheap. They can't be used in rwd. Go for it man. Get the ae111 superstrut. Its not a powerful car but it punches well above its weight is fun thanks to the revs and handling. Well i havent actually driven one as I prefer rwd but Ive been using the motors out of them for some time now and Id say it will be awesome if its on a stock ecu in a fwd car as toyota intended. Will be as reliable as any other corolla, maybe better. Like all Toyota motors of this era they make a lot of sludge out of tired oil so make sure its had its servicing done and if thats fine you can't lose. It takes under 50000 klms to sludge up a motor with infrequent changes.

Looks much better.

lol I guess its just a map pocket. hold the tissue box right where my gf likes it.

I know what you mean, heres a pic of what mine look like inside...

Terry has rims like this to flare around, what size are you planning to run?

Washed it and fitted a new lip. I think this is the lip I will keep on there. Suits it awesome.

If your serious about the track work save your pennies and get shocks that cost 500 dollars an end, the springs are the cheap part.

So did you go? If so what was your time?

Did a bit more tonight, I finally hooked up my shift lights through a switch. Ive also fitted the pano glove box and kick panels. The handbrake needed adjusting so i did that too. I guess I should wash it now too, its still got numbers and rubber on it from the drags. I really want to get the stock tacho working.

Techno Toy Tuning is the only way to go, mate. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=691 Best bang for buck and of all the 4 piston setups this is the easiest to find wheels to clear them. Did the dude send your chrome bars in the end?

The reaction times don't count in your time at test and tune, some people stage for an extra 10 seconds and their time is only from when they move.

Ive only been twice, and never with a functioning tacho or shift light. Gimme a break. I'm not dedicating the car to drag thats for sure. Its just nice to know the kind of times it does.

That was Brad. lolz.