LittleRedSpirit

Done soem more stripping of the shell as well as rust and bolt hole filling.

Ah yes old wiring, do not get me started. It seems the more you mess with it, the less things work! :bash:

Well it is right. If you do a lot of small trips in a car, any water vapour thats found its way in there from watever source isnt able to be evaporated away. If the oil is never up to temp enough to evaporate the water, it will stay there and build up. The cure is usually a 40 minute sprint on the highway to make sure it all gets good and hot and the water vapour can escape the oil out the pcv and breather system. Generally just driving a car for a while will fix it, so that explains why its cleared up now.

Finally someone has a 2 door. :dance: Top score. I love this body, even more pleasing to the eye than a te71GT if you ask me. The pop out windows rock. So the eventual plan is to fit the G? Once its complied and whatnot? Are you legally able to just swap out the entire firewall and weld in another from a rhd ADM vehicle? How do you have to do the rhd conversion, is there a set method they prefer to see you use? That is if you decide to do it... Definately staying tuned.

JDM AE86

Yes I know the centre console fascia in similar condition goes for over $750 for a HG. Its amazing what Holden Junk is worth nowadays.

Yeah no problems. Are you looking for some CF bits for the Silo?

The fuel cell is sold. I still have the surge tank for now. Make an offer if you want when you are ready. Yes indeed there has been a lot done and organised since I last posted. I found someone who was turning their ae86 into a drag car and succeeded in getting everything I need minus the door trims, hatch and bonnet, and seatbelts. I'm tossing up buying a Seibon CF OEM bonnet and hatch combo for it. Its just so annoying to find old steel parts that need fixing and still will set me back $500. Anyhow, more thought is needed there. Heres some pics of the rust. The places where the car was cut down in the rear lower wells has been closed up. There was a little rust in the gaurd. I'm going in today I might have a play with the Mig and see if I can finish it off. I need to grind a seat mount out of another car to weld in, I'm thinking a ke one could do. The person who cut the car up removed one of the threads in the floor pan to fit their alloy seat, which I now need to replace. There's a small amount of rust near the pillar vents that I will look at also. I will have to go and collect my sandblaster from my mate that has it to clean up the under body in the thing. Once its all solid metal again I will wire brush it, grind it to shape then I plan to put a decent layer of an epoxy resin over it. We have this araldite type product at work in tubs that will do a nice job of permanently locking out all the water from the areas that have been taken back to bare metal, as well as coating the fresh welds.

If they are the ae86 ones they will have a 2014 caliper. Pull off a wheel and read the number.

Hi Tony. Just a tip, Toyota made "ke" series corollas for a long time. You might want to add some info on what exactly it is you ar referring to. Pics perhaps? Also, have a go in the Want To Buy Section.

AE71 Panelvans have AE86 struts anyhow. This may be the case with you. Is your 'late model wagon' an AE71 panelvan? Time to be more specific.

Spewin! Might have been Sam in the Panno.

I saw this on the highway the other day coming home from the Sunny Coast... Reckon it looked pretty sweet.

http://www.technotoytuning.com/vehicles.php Its the big brake kit for AE86. Cheap as chips at the moment. Hoppers stoppers kit is around 1500, and will still need sorting. This will be landed here around $900 at the moment. No messing required as they selected the caliper which has similar hydraulic requirements to the stock one. All the hard work is done. The only negative thing after running it for a couple of years is the usual problem of wearing out front wheel bearings faster, youd get maybe 30-35000ks from a set before they will need changing. The way around this is to use XT 130 struts which run a bigger bearing and stub axle. Then to make your own upgrade on that. Wilwood have a 3.5 inch caliper mount series instead of the usual 5.5 inch spacing of most of their calipers. This narrow mount series will bolt to the xt130 strut, its simply then a matter of finding the right rotor. The xt130 strut also has a cast caliper mount which would be a bit stiffer than the pressed steel ae86 equivalent. Its a bit more work but next time around Ill probably do it this way.

What gearbox/diff ratio do you have, that will determine what part you need.

As far as tyre wear goes, you can still scrub the outside of the tyre with -3 drgrees camber adjusted in. It just depends how you drive. I run -2.2 on the street 24/7 and my fronts wear perfect, but I like to accelerate in corners. If you put 2 degrees on it and drive like a nanna you can scrub the inside, but the tyres will only wear out badly if the toe is shocking and you do a big highway spray where you don't load the edges up. One of the better ways to see if your alignment is good or bad is to use an IR thermometer to measure the tread temps on the inner and outer edge of the tyre. Heat = wear so if you thrash it through the hills then stop and the outside is cold you have too much camber. Conversely if the outer is fried compared to the inside you have not enough. In general you are looking for even temps but remember for most setups it is a balance based on how the car is used. No point having -3 or 4 on most street cars, but it can work for race cars. IMHO sigma parts have no place in a corolla. They give too much camber, I think if you are looking for that much camber you should use XT130 arms and adjustable tops. Its not too nice to have massively mismatched track front to rear, although slightly wider at the front is ok, you don't want to be 2 inches wider. Maybe 20-30mm.

I know a few people who have but there are way easier ways to get large family sedan brakes on your corolla. Learnt you can do VT brakes pretty easy on the weekend. I have heard people cannot find a suitable master cylinder either as hoppers don't supply one with the kit, and if you retain the stock one you will lock rears. For most corolla owners its the better option to fit ae86 struts and buy something like the TTT Wilwood kit that is available.

Torago diffs are f series and a bit wide to begin with.

I don't understand why you have to move the pivot point. The pedal feels fine normally, what feels bad about a ke70 clutch is the cable you use. Id have thought all you would do is measure the distance you need to displace the rod in the back of the master, then mount it at the appropriate height on the firewall to make that displacement as you go along the pedal. Worst case Ontario you would have to make a longer pin that extends the one on the MC. Is there something in the way there, why wont that work? Does it interfere with the steering aperture further down the firewall?

Hello. Hilux are the go but look for something a little smaller than the E series if you can. F series are the go unless you are making stupid power. Then you can use LSD centres from Lexus Altezza, MA61, Crown etc. The RN47 2wd lux has a pretty tought little E series if you decide to go that way. The good thing about a Lux diff is it is already a leaf diff so will need minimal mods to be fitted, as long as you go for an earlier series of lux the width could be either similar or the same from the get go. I think RN25 lux has the right width of diff too.

Hello. Like the person above said you may as well go buy a GTR Skyline, the 4age in an ae86 (unless its jap spec import that came with a 4age) will be a legal no go. So therefore you should be looking for a JDM AE86 to begin with, which is no big deal, as long as you have at least 8 grand to spend on the car. So anyhow. You shouldn't just go swapping the heads from 16v to 20v for the most part, as there are flycuts in the pistons to clear the valves which make sure all Toyota motors are non interference. Id recommend this would be best done with the appropriate low comp pistons to suit the 5 valve per cylinder head. I have heard of people building the poor mans 4agte 20v and just tossing the 20v head on a gze bottom end which works but I'm unsure of the resulting Compression Ratio. Perhaps someone can confirm who has done this... Putting a GZE charger or a 20v is a difficult exercise as the manifold from the GZE will not work, you can make your own, but would you retain the itbs? sounds like a bit of a head f@$k and hard to do nicely. So just forget boost until Johnny Hopper says its all ok. Build an AE86 that handles great and learn to drive it, its the better way to go. If you want to beat turbo cars, good luck, according to the government you aren't allowed the privelige just yet. :yes:

Hi James. Putting a t50 behind a stock k motor is a waste of time for your application and will do little to help you in the 4age conversion. it is what it is unless you do a manual conversion with ke70 bits. Expect to pay over $500 for a k-t bellhousing to let you put the t50 behind the k motor, then there are different clutch systems, either cable or hydraulic to integrate with. Best off collecting parts for the 4age conversion. You want a T50. But you want a T50 from behind an a series motor like in an ae71 or ae86, otherwise the bellhousing and tail shafts wont fit. You also want all the supporting parts like clutch hydraulics, lines, clutch flywheel, brackets and mounts, cross members and inlet and exhaust manifolds. This has been covered a million times, I suggest you just continue your research for a bit and you will be fine.

Nice welds on the mounts btw. :blush:

Yeah sure we can move it to whichever section you are most comfortable in. I just think once people start doing the kind of work you guys have done, they are well and truly worthy of referencing as a technical exercise. The idea of the technical builds section is to collect the threads which offer the best reference to quality of work, originality, determination, exotic conversions, just anything worthy that we do not want to see forgotten in time. Stuff that others will be inspired or informed by. There is so much inspiration in this thread. Coty next year for sure.