LittleRedSpirit

I just ordered some techno toy tuning velocity stacks and a crank pulley in silver. Trying to get it to spin more freely at high rpm. You save around 1kg of rotating weight with the pulley alone so that should help. I also wanted to swap the velocity stacks after dynoing the car and seeing how the top end power drops away. It does hurt you a little bit at the drags I think, as I was doing faster 60 foot times but the same ETs. I put some fresh oil in the diff, Penrite Limslip 85/140. Will do the box oil soon, aswell. I'm considering some redline oil but man it is expensive. I heard it improves shifting action. Has anyone else tried it? I also fitted the newly powdercoated heatshield above the muffler. I don't know why I bothered, why not eh. Did a spanner check of all the nuts and bolts in the rear end, it was all nice and tight. I still can't get rid of the leaky seal on the rear rhs of the diff, so I cleaned the wheel just so I can gauge exactly how fast its leaking. I think my axle might be slightly warped and flogging the seal out. Must have had fun doing the burnouts at the drags Wednesday night. There is a record amount of rubber stuck to the rear guards. Picked up some new seals for the top cover bolts. They will hopefully help keep it clean once the cover is refinished.

You can find and fit: 4afe 4afc 4ac 4age bigport 4age smallport 4agze 4age 20v Blacktop 4age 20v Silvertop 7afe They will use stock mounts, but you may need different electrics and or fuel system to fit some of these in. Try reading the Wikipedia on the A series motors from Toyota.

Yeah the last is a gts, and he stuffed the start. I got a bit in front and he got a bit of a shock I think. Run - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 60' -2.203-2.157-2.165-2.104-2.112 1/8 -10.10-9.994-10.03-9.943-9.970 1/4 -15.77-15.62-15.64-15.58-15.62 MPH -85.86-85.53-86.14-86.30-86.09 I can hit the limiter earlier than before but would need to switch to 4.1s to make this gearing work. I didn't get a best time but I got a great 60 footer, and it does better burnouts at the staging area also. It was also 80% humidity and 22 degrees so not ideal conditions. At one point there was an oil down for over an hour, and then a few runs later, another one for 20 minutes or more. Spent a lot of time waiting for 5 runs.

Gave the gts a fright. lol.

Yeah every motor needs cams. I'm happy with it, its grunty, its a street car, I just don't have to push it as hard to get the same performance out of it s before. I have the money there to cam it if I want to but I'm better off having my bellhousing made for the 2azfe vehicle (its booked in to extreme custom btw). Then Ill cam that up one day. There are 272s with 10mm lift available for the 2azfes from Brian Crower in the US, plus stroker kits, pistons, rods, valve springs, sleeves, you can go up to around 2.7 litres with the 2azfe if you have a little money to spend (4500US). There are well built turbo 2azfes going close to 500HP. Thats a lot of power from a lighweight block. Id be happy with 200hp NA from it some day.

I'm not sure how either was set up. I was really there for afrs. I think the curve shape is more relevant than the figures at play, it drives more powefully in those areas so I think it describes the trend in delivery well.

Made a graph as best I could with the 2 dyno sheets. I know different dynos different day etc but was as similar as it can be under the circumstances. It seems to show what I was looking for. It drops away after making a stronger peak. I'm faced with the choice of opening up the inlet some more and trying to get it more air for the last 1500rpm of the band, or shortening the rev limit by 700 rpm or so to avoid running where there is no point anyhow. Its clear the bigger throttles before breathed better at the top of the rpm band, but this setup does a lot more work before it even gets there. Decisions, Decisions. Now I need to revise part throttle maps. Wish it would stop raining, the arse dyno fails in the rain. :cool:

Ok, just got back from some dyno time. We did a power run, found it was a bit lean right through, just about half a point average. It appears my interpretation of a happy sounding motor is one pushed close to the edge. Added a lot of fuel aspecially from 4000-6500rpm, as it wanted a lot more and just kept making more torque in that range. Its an interesting chart, and it confirms that my modifications to gain torque have worked. Compared to my old dyno chart I am making a lot more power earlier. It also made 88KW on their scale, it made 85kw before. So it has made more power earlier, infact, with the combination of a 2 inch exhaust pipe, 4-2-1 extractors, and 30mm long 42mm diameter trumpets on silvertop throttles, it makes its peak power at 6550rpm, a full 600rpm sooner than it used to. So to summarise it makes more power earlier. This means the area under the curve is quite large compared to the old system. I will plot the 2 graphs onto a shared scale for comparisons sake to exemplify the point more clearly. Its making 100hp at 5450 rpm. Thats sure putting ts power down differently than before. See chart below. Videos to come when I tube em.

So it seems my battery isnt dead. Its a trusty workhorse. I found an absolutely f@$ked wire right at the battery terminal. It must have had acid on it in a previous life as it was rotting the pins in the plug, and it was the wire that feeds the whole ignition key and dash area. This explains why the lights were sometimes not switching on, the key obviously wasnt supplying enough voltage to trigger the starter either. It seems lively now, so I've booked in to put it on a dyno and do a power run and O2 reading. This should give me some more ideas for tuning and finding some more fuel economy. Ill post a video of her wide open on the dyno later today. Also will put the chart up and see how its doing. :cool:

Got some bits back from the powdercoaters yesterday. I now have a neatly coated bonnet post, and Stone tray. No more rusty oily stone tray in my engine compartment. On the negative side, I think after several years of abuse, including being crushed into the strut tower when I carashed the red beast, the 540cca battery Ive been using is slowly dieing. If the car sits for 3 days with no use the thing wont start, but a push start and the alternator soon charges it up enough to start. Then 3 days later, no start. Its problems are probably exacerbated by the 1.0kw starter motor I just fitted instead of the .85kw unit I was using before. Also Ive been playing with the tune and have done more to work out the small power flatspot at 3800rpm. Is pulling a lot better there now. I might try and put it on a dyno and just do a power run with the 02 probe up its butt to see how the tune is going.

Forget PS. Its a light car and one of the joys of driving it is the feel you get. Powersteering would dull this feel.

Theres not a big difference between a circuit car and a drift car at the highest levels. For me Id run the same car but fiddle with tyre pressures and spring/damper rates and wheel alignment to get it drifting. I doubt you need 'adjustable everything' as people put it. I wonder if they can tell me what changing different settings will even do? You want a softer feel in a grip car, that takes bumps and ripples and keeps on trucking without ending up spitting or spinning. Soft spring rates and good dampers. For drift, the same setup most likely with a stiffer rear end so what you do on the wheel and pedals gets transferred into the chassis more directly. Even then its not a big change and you could still quite adequately drift a fully built circuit car minus the slicks of course. It will just loose traction progressively and not snap all over the place. A lot of people will tell you how to set up a drift car, there's a basic list of 'cheap tricks' that kids use to make an underpowered rig slide. Massive rear tyre pressures, stretched skinny tires, springs that are basically completely rigid and shocks with zero droop, the list goes on. Its a lot simpler than you might think, and quite frankly, you being a good steerer will make the biggest difference.

AE86 struts give a good brake upgrade and allow you to use better shocks as the ae86 has a large aftermarket range available. Use the steering arms aswell with the struts. You can use basically any suspension part from the ae86. AE86 may well have a better diff than the ke70 too. If you can find a jap ae86 to wreck then it will have a t series 6.7inch crownwheel diff with an lsd if you are lucky. AE86 diff bolts right in, unlike Hilux. Hilux diff is overkill until you get to a certain level of power and torque. How much power you looking at making? If its an NA rotor it might not make a tonne of torque at any given instant, turbo rotor would be a different story.

The thing that pisses me off the most about hoon driving. The midnight club. People who act like a road becomes a racetrack after a certain hour. When asked why its a good idea they say things like, "oh there's nobody else around". Think about it, morons. Nobody else except the oncoming dickhead who is also doing double the limit and using your lane as his line, thinking the same dumb shit as you do, or a sleepy family trying to make it home, or that drunk idiot hooking it home from the pub with 4 mates in the car. There really is no appropriate time or place to drive like a c**t on the open roads. Just because people are lucky enough to get away with a few near misses, think they are the stig, and make excuses like, "oh it was only a problem because the other driver was being a dickhead". Take some responsibility in your own lives. I have been unlucky enough to go through an accident where I severely injured another road user, and it wasn't a good feeling. If I had been behaving inappropriately I would be in jail now and for the next few years. If you have an accident and hurt someone, and they feel you acted as a hoon driver, they will charge you with dangerous driving causing GBH (or death), which is a criminal offence with a long custodial sentence. Think about that the next time you are showing off to your mates on the public roads.

Yeah my mate was misinformed, ended up cruising the city and had a nice dinner at Hawthorne instead. Was a good night anyhow.

Harrys diner is in the same commercial lot as the meet and Bretts hardware isnt it? Either way I'm going. Drive up Newmarket Road and youll find it.

Its at Harrys Diner, well in the carpark behind it anyhow. Near Bretts Hardware on Newmarket Road.

I agree with Altezza club. Big pipe = less gas velocity = less power. You need a resonator IMO, will clean up the sound. Use a quiet muffler, cannons are not endorsed by me, or most people that buy them 5 minutes after installation. Extractors are a good idea, Id even neck it down to 1 & 3/4 or 1 & 7/8 inch right after the extractors if it were my car.

This is on again tomorrow I believe, I'm going. Hope to see you guys there!

Its hitting 6000rpm at the moment, hes working up to 9000 safely. Heres a photo of it all on the road and cruising for the fans out there.

Just had an awesome drive with Spilmer. Did a bot of a tour of the MT Crosby/Kholo area. Some tasty roads up there.

Thats a great score! Try to get away from M motors, they have a bad rep. Known for bad HG failures. JZ ftmfw! :dance:

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48340-4age-16v-stuff-clicky-clicky/ Theres a reco head for sale here if you can't be bothered doing all the helicoils.