LittleRedSpirit

I think theres a good chance that this will all come to nothing anyhow. Either your 'Mate' if you can call him that after charging him such a price for the car, may well grow a brain in between now and when your hands are outstretched for his hard earned money. If you can ever get anything like what youve spent for a car when you sell it you are doing ok. Making a profit is almost unheard of. Sell it, buy that VL and go pole hunting.

Did well on the repairs, I love that TE72 fastback!

Oh yeah thats right. This guy has awesome rollas all over!

So sorry to hear, but I know youll be back in action before too long with yet more power. One of the best cars Ive seen on the Rollaclub ever, and most definately now one of the best known and respected drag cars in Australia nowadays, whenever I get into a conversation about drag racing with some random person, they always know this car and its accomplishments. Super dooper work on the 7. So where to from here? If I had to guess it would be that you would rebuild another 2j with some improvements to the main caps, possibly a nice custom girdle to keep the bearings in place. Or maybe look at another motor all together, but then what could you put in there that would do the job of this 2j better than it does? I'm thinking maybe more capacity but whats bigger in the Toyota family except maybe 1UZ which arguably has less potential. I assume youre happy with your gearing and rpm at the line, so would stroking it be an option that wouldnt limit the rpm your running, Id assume there would be little advantage in a light chassis? I guess I'm just wondering what you could do to improve this thing further, it seems pretty damn well put together as a package, its hard to see anything obvious that it would benefit from.

Well that omment proves your idea worked Terry. I think you will find there is a much larger custom gaurd dropping 35mm lower to cover the 10s, not that the car is lowered any extra.

lolz

Holy shit thats an old control app. Suits the period of the car though, top points for period correct. Yes mimal settings, and none for any different trigger wheels. I guess you do have to stick to a 2 tooth wheel.

Yeah some EMS are fussy about how many tooth on the wheel and where the missing tooth is, I'm unsure about the particular unit you describe, but gebnerally they need the missing tooth to reference intake or exhaust stroke and do the full sequential ignition/injection if thats what youre going for, if your happy with wasted spark and batch fire, which should be adequate for an EMS of that vintage, and K motor, then you should be able to finish it up with as little as a cistom brakct to hold each sensor and a couple of neatly filed lumps of weld on your pulleys. Happy to help. :dance: :rolls:

http://enjukuracing.com/techno-tuning-4age-crank-pulley-edis-trigger-wheel-p-8380.html Need a trigger wheel like this. http://sccatalog.honeywell.com/pdbdownload/images/1gt101dc.pdf and a sensor similar to this. I just bought a sensor as shown above for wheel speed. Its a hall effect sensor, the magnet's in the sensor so you just need a tooth to make a pulse with it. It was $70 delivered or so. Bought from RS online, and fast delivery too, free within 2 days. The more theeth, the more data your ecu has to manage injectors and triggering, you can't go full sequential unless you have the right amount of triggering info so it knows which cylinder is TDC on the intake stroke.

Will usually be over $100 aswell, more like $150.

If I do a flip grill it will be concealed under the original grill. I'm not into wildly custom stuff.

Have a look at gunners thread, misleadingly titled "Do you have an FT86, because I do". I think if you read the thread, you see he surely does not have an FT86. The motor I expect will fit in the engine bay of an FT86, unlike whats going on there. He cut the chassis rails and modified the shit out of almost every steel but in the front end to get it to work, and even now its quite a dubious question as to whether the thing will even work once its finished, if it gets finished.

Did some work on the loom today. Injector plug number 2 was only holding on by 3 strands of copper, and the power wire was not adequate cable as it had been soldered at to add other experimental stuff. So I replaced the power wire with a new machine crimped spare from the complete loom I bought to steal wires from. I tapped into it really neatly like Toyota does with the little crimps and a drop of solder to secure it. I added a 2 pin plug to it to give a neat finish and a secure method of sharing the ecu power to some additional sensors like the mvss and any future experiments I might need it for. It runs a bit nicer, especially when you are into it, I guess a stronger power feed to the ecu helps and who knows how the injector might have been affected. Was 2 hours well spent. I think I need to make an ecu controlled flip grill for winter. The radiator is just too efficient. i can hit the cold rev limit after sitting on the highway for a while, especially in sub 15 degree evening conditions. Might make some sort of flip setup in front of the radiator core behind the grill, to maybe block 1/3 of the cooler fins, when rquired. It would self open when the temp hits a certain point, and close if it gets a bit cool. Next thing to do is some cold startup tuning on a really cold morning, it needs better temp trim at the extreme lower levels, and it is becoming more evident as it gets colder.

RTFFAQ :faq: :faq: :faq: :faq:

Yes they should fit a stock ke30 without mods, as their struts are almost identical to a ke70s. The 30s can handle a bit less offset thanks to the design of the gaurds, so the 7s should be pretty trouble free to put on and drive, even if its lowered.

The maximum backspace you casn have on most ke70s that run ae86 struts is 125mm. They are 16 x 7 + 15 so the mounting surfaces meet 15mm outside the centre of the wheel. Being a 7J the wheel including the tyre sealing beads will be 8 inches wide. So 4 inches plus 15mm is your backspace. 115mm. Yes they will fit neat on a ke70 strut but you could go wider offset and or width if you wanted to make them look better. Look for an 8 inch at zero offset, or an 8.5 at neg 10 approx.

Yes, apparently the person died at 4:30 AM and fell from a 7th floor balcony. Sounds like the alcohol was a factor more so than the planking. Mates don't let mates plank drunk on the 7th floor handrail. Might win a darwin award. Wonder what the doctor and his mate wolfman will have to say about it now. Might be interesting.

Thats the best way because all the fab is done for you, almost.

Whens the next one?

Youd be fine with a stock one, as long as you got a new decent quality jap made copper brass unit. don't buy cheap shit. Especially not on a motor you are tuning and actually like.

If I connect the wideband into the serial input then I can use the laptop on the serial output to record data logfiles. Alternatively I can use the ecu data scan to watch what it is doing. Could even auto tune it.

Looks pretty good, but I shouldnt need something that standalone with the instrumentation I already have. I am now just fitting a hall effect sensor to give a clean speed reading. I tried a few reed switch ones and they were all crap. Will do something on the diff nose like this experiment I'm working on.

Area under the curve is where its at. That's the whole point of everything I've done on my 20v since going in the new shell. I reckon 20v 7age is pure porn. Need to do it seriously though, as you will want to be hitting high rpm. You would need rods, pistons, fine tune your compression ratio. You would need a standalone ecu to let you get around the dizzy problem. Not sure which Timing Belt I haven't looked into it that far, but the 20v head flows more, especially if you aren't going to invest in cams and porting right away.

Fresh. Be at the shed after midday tomorrow. You popping around? Kory wants to talk wheels for his ae71.

Well done, thats a hell of a job. :dance: Power output?