LittleRedSpirit

Yes agreed it wont matter next to the turbo, but I think NA is a bit different, you can get it to work perfect either way, but their is a level of equipment I want to use here, bike throttles are usually tubular at either end with no flanges that work and this is what I want to avoid.

You can split bike throttles, well some suzuki ones maybe. Not many others. I'm not a fan of attaching them by a hose and clamp, I want to build something more high quality solid and boostable one day. Something with a flange plate that seals solidly as cane be, and maybe o ring the throttles like the manifold to head junction. I'm interested in the BMW ones aswell, but I'd assume they would be as rare as anything. Wondering what they cost if anyone's seen some for sale? I'm not looking to bore a throttle any bigger than the butterfly. I'm not sure exactly what size butterfly each series of silver itb has. Cheers, Mee too. :laff:

Any contributions of manuals and info for this engine would be welcome. Yeah I kind of have the whole starter and bell housing thing solved now, I'm working on mounts. Should have it mounted next Sunday and be planning for a custom sump and oil pick up. Then inlet, water system plumbing, for which I will need manuals, and wiring.

There's enough blown rbs around I suppose. Still I would like to get the perfect design, as the rb ones are seemingly a straight tube design, and I kind of want a taper with an na motor I think. It still might be worth getting the jenvey ones, however the silvertop ones are so close to what I need. Decisions decisions.

That thread is great. Got the info. 90mm centre to centre, but that's not too bad I guess. I do prefer how you can break up the Toyota ones though.

Sam I just read more of the thread you linked, maybe rb throttles will work. They seem to be 45mm but I don't know the spacing.

What I'm ultimately looking for is a 45mm circular hole as an outlet on the throttle, a port spacing of 97.5mm and a tapered design. I might just end up getting some jenvey ones, but they are expensive, Id like to use silvertop or blacktop if they had the right outlet in one series or another, boring them might be expensive.

Yes the spacing between would be great. The 2azfe ports are 10mm per port further apart than 4age 20v ports. Centre to centre. I'm curious about the spacing of them also, so Matt if you could give the measurements that would be great, also whether they are a tapered design or a straight tube throttle and the length of the body. If thats not too much trouble it would be great.

Do you have a photo of the eccentric blacktop outlet? Sounds like st will work, might have them professionally bored.

Much appreciated. :laff:

I'm using whatever throttles I can find with a 45mm outlet. I believe BT to be suitable but need to confirm the measurements.

Cool as.

Imagine that with 500kg less to haul around. Its 9 seconds zero to 100 in a camry. Should be 6. something in a rolla.

I'm not so into being the first to do this so I don't mind sharing, Id rather lay the foundation for others if I can, as I feel its a good idea. 125KW and 220NM. Roughly the same as a smallport gze but with no boost. That's through the terrible exhaust manifold pictured above with a cat 9 inches from the ports, so with a proper exhaust, ITB inlet and 11:1 pistons, the sky is the limit I think. I've seen someone in the US with 200fwhp with stock cams, just 11:1 pistons were the only internal change. That was through stock a stock inlet aswell, so I guess Id be happy to go close to 200hp and keep over 200nm of torque. It will be run an an adaptronic, probably one of the new select model ecus.

Nobody gave me any motors as such, I bought my dummy motor on ebay as well as my new one. I'm merely a chauffer of motors. If I wanted a 2gr Id have one. If you read what I wrote, the whole point is a better performing engine with no weight penalty. At 180kg, the 2grfe is a heavy pig and is a bit more motor than I am looking for, about 65kg more. I like the idea but its not for me. Did I title this the 2gr RWD thread, what did you think you might accomplish suggesting I change? If I was to read between the lines I could be offended. :laff: That's a machined flange from which I will make an ITB inlet. I love the factory O ring seal usage. The raised bits are so you don't have to warp it by putting heat into the flange too much when you weld it up I guess. I did some maths that suggests that if you crimp 50mm OD 45mm ID alloy tube in a vice it should fit neat, and I believe 45mm id is the outlet diameter of BT quads so I will try and make an itb manifold along those lines.

moar

Hello. As some people know, I've been interested for a long time in fitting a 2azfe to an ae71 or ae86. It's something I've given a lot of thought to, but now I've made some progress and would like to use this as a place to collect my thoughts/information that I learn along the way so I don't forget what I did or how I did it. So far I've collected a lot of what I should need. I have: 2azfe 2azfe clutch, flywheel, inlet, tb, loom, coils, alternator, starter, exhaust manifold/cat, and fwd transfer case. 2azfe lightweight pulley kit. 2azfe inlet manifold flange from ross machine racing. Various starters to suit rwd config. Y and S bellhousings to suit w55-w58. W57 from a RT142 Corona. Unknown factors. Bellhousing/starter/flywheel compatability and alignment. Source for rwd mounts if any exists. Clutch combination. How to fit a starter when it has no provision for front facing starter. Sump design, lowest point drainage and oil pickup design for rwd. Engine bay fitment/ bonnet clearance. Shifter position. Why? Its the same weight as a 4age, even with the w box and centre of gravity is more than likely improved. 800cc extra capacity, with a possibility of up to 2.7 litres with a stroker kit. Standard power output of 125 KW and 220NM at the flywheel. Same as a stock smallport gze more or less, but from a motor with low end torque and no lag or Boost related issues. Why not, I've seen one done before and I believe it is still unfinshed. Its in the US and I've only ever found one photo of it. Some Formula Drift guy is using it in an ae86 one day apparently, but other than that its a rare idea. Its a very common engine. With boost its capable of 450-500KW with the right built engine. Its not as much as a 2jz but its a lot from an alloy lightweight motor, it weighs half a 2jz. Heard of stock bottom ends getting 400 hp before exploding from the boost. Cheap performance parts. Sub $500 CP/JE forged pistons. Sub $500 forged rods. BC Cams are cheap, Supertec parts for them too, lots of good gear, and 11:1 pistons if you want. I initially looked at the motor to see where the starter could go and what bell housing would fit. The S housing meets the meaty part where the S starter used to be on the 2azfe block. However cutting that metal away would remove the engine number. Also this would have the slave on the passenger/exhaust side. The y housing is the answer, places the starter in a spot where you can hack a lot of block away as its just spare sandwich plate material that can be removed. I stitch drilled and chiselled the alloy out then smoothed it over with a flap on the grinder. It also locates the fork under the drivers/inlet side. A 2az is like a 4ag it has inlet on the right and outlet on the left of the car. The stock 2azfe flywheel is just able to fit in the Y bell housing as well. The Y bell housing locates on 2 studs and centres perfect, and you can redrill a few bolts to make it bolt up no big deal. The bell housing sits a bit rotated on the motor, but this results in no more than an 8 degree lean to the exhaust side which adds inlet room, assists with starter vs steering clearance and lowers the motor in the car as well. The other motor patterns that are close are vz and mz and gr. all v6 patterns. Y, 4Ag rwd, or E starters will work, depending on how you flare the bolt holes in your bellhousing, I'm sure that a 22re one will be very close also. Y requires an adapter plate 12mm thick. E requires only a steel sandwich plate. The ringgear teeth on the 2azfe flywheel need a file taken to them or the gear spun around to take the starter from the front. So with a bit of fiddling I had a starter tested and working. Next was a test fit. The thing fits like a glove, the depressions in the firewall help and its all good, heaps of room for an inlet aswell, and the ports miss the booster and clutch master as they point abov that line, so there is 400mm of runner there if you like. The second from rearmost w box shifter is perfect for it, we made a crossmember to suit it, by just using a stock w box crossmember from an rt142 that came with the box and just moving the mounting plate 30mm. I bolts right into the ae86 chassis with a redrill on one pair of holes, which gives you 4 bolts crossmember to body, and 4 bolts mount to crossmember then 4 bolts mount to box aswell. Should be strong as hell. I have templated the engine mount components aswell, and we will be making them from steel. My friend is arranging the metal at his work, and next weekend we can finish them off and hope fully have a strongly mounted motor ready for manifolds, wiring, a cooling system and sump. Some pictures of it all.

Got cover back.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7qwBJH9QN0

Just fitted a different top cover so that I could refinish my old one. I'm getting it silver ceramiced at Competition coatings. Its not as cheap as powdercoating but tougher and will hopefully keep more heat in my engine and less in my bay. Ive finally got onto Rick Sendall to talk about a cage and harness bar for my rolla. I'm pretty keen to do things properly when I have a 2azfe to power a corolla.

Hmm, sorry to inject a little gravity here but I'm sure a MTB with ceramic pistons in its hydraulic disc brakes and 180mm rotors goes for serious enough coin to warrant just buying a motorcycle. Seems like a waste to hack up a high spec MTB just to turn it into an inadequate postie bike. I don't mean to hate, I'm just amazed at how far you guys would go for a project.

Honda will actually sell you an entire motorcycle with a capacity of up to 1800cc. Motorbikes are cheaper to register and use bugger all fuel anyhow, I don't quite understand how a modified pushy will cut it at 80klm/hr, quite frankly you'd be a menace with not enough brakes to stop quickly. If you took it on the push bike paths the cyclists wouldn't have you, trust me I know I rode my CRF on a bike path and got some shocking looks and waved fists. I love rollaclub people and how they think. Sentence one you state whats legal, sentence two you describe how you will break the law. lolz.

Be nice to identify what you drive eh. Might help.

Theres a 4agte in fwd config, slightly damaged there. He offered it to me for $350, so someone who wants it should should go haggle him down. Its a 4agze with a garrett turbo on it. Turbo looks pretty spent and its an oily mess of a motor, but if you can haggle him down to $200 hed take it I reckon. Its worth that just for the manifold and pistons. I didnt see if it was a bigport or a smallport. The alternator is a bit bent, but its probably salvageable as a motor.

A mate put power steering fluid in his brake fluid in his cordia, then followed me over to mine and promptly rear ended me, doing over $2000 damage to my holden ute.