LittleRedSpirit

7m-H2o=BHG

And don't get hung up on the image on that link, its a generic photo, looks like a kit for an s15 in that shot, not an ae86 like the photo says.

I think youre missing the vital piece of info in what people have told you. Even if you just want to remove the strut tube and weld on a whole new one, the spindle will be attached to an undersized casting to weld the new tube to. If you get to use any 2 inch strut for the conversion, use xt130 corona ones. They are plentiful, give a smidge more neg camber and much the same ackerman on the steering. Plus you go up to a larger stub axle and bigger twin pot brakes (if you use wagon or rt132 struts). Cut them to any length that suits your shock choice and ride height and weld together. KE70 struts are shit, 45 is ID and not many good dapers available. Plus pussy brakes. Friends don't let friends make coilovers out of ke70 struts.

Had this problem once caused by a poorly fitted air filter that made a bit of the plastic filter chassis snap off, fall down the throat of the carb and stick the butterfly open. If you shone a torch down you could see it in there. Removed most of it and then the last bit seemed to go through the motor with no issues. lol. :bash:

There's little off the shelf for this chassis. There is a company called restored Japan that does carbon and glass panels etc for ke70. Rare and expensive if you can find it at all, has little to no aussie distro. Only other option is custom... Or add a front lip. For the flares, you need a friend who has hammer and dolly skills, or a welder and some talent. Or both. Most people just get a generic flare kit and try to fit that if that's what they want, since they never really had bolt on flares or much kit made specifically for the xe7x chassis. Weight reduction is best achieved by adding a well designed cage and cutting away a hell of a lot of the superfluous body material. Otherwise you might lose rigidity and safety and with a turbo 20v you wont be hurting for hp anyhow, so the weight wont be such a big issue.

Just bought a DK Dayton complete from a pawn shop for $100. Has 3 piece cranks, double wall rims and sealed hubs, gyro, chromo constrution. Needs a little work but man thats a good buy I think. I'm gonna paint it, change the bearings out and fit new tyres, which should make it perfect.

Put GT4 running gear in. Its almost made for it, there is a tunnel and all. Why go to live axle? Its IRS anyhow. Or why not get a tercel or 4wd corolla rear end its about that wide.

This car was sold to someone in qld then to Phil -CA18AE71, a mad dude from the Sunny coast. The taillights werent pirate spec so one day he brought it over to mine and we pulled them out and siliconed in some stock ones, which I have a photo of somewhere. By the time Phil had this thing, the paint work was rusting through on the roof, and the person he bought it off shafted him and took all the good suspension out after he drobve it, so it was an unaligned stocker on cutties when I got to drive it, the suspension was so bad that when you turn a corner the wheel wouldnt pull straight, you had to manually unwind the wheel, which made for a scary driving experience when trying to overcome the oversteer the ca18 created. I dead set nearly racked a gutter on the first corner. Over time Phil removed the chromies and I sold him a pair of ae86 struts for it, which improved it a lot. It did a mad skid with a borgy 4.3:1 locker in her. Phil drove it to the gold coast and showed it to a potential buyer one Sunday, but blew his diff on the way home and limped back to mine at 10 oclock at night where we fitted a diff from my parts car to it so he could get home for work the next day. It was a long ass night, the kind that lives in rollaclub folklore. It still had the beige leather interior in it when Phil had it, which was the main thing I liked about it. I guess phil kept those lights and chucked them in with ella cause ella wanted them soooo much when he bought the car, he said they were the coolest thing he has ever seen and tryed to swap phil a playstation 3 and 16 games for them, but Phil was a nice guy and he threw them in for free. Ok Ok, I made the last few lines up but the first paragrah is the history of the car. PS, all that shaping and blacking outon the lights was done with, yep you guessed it, BOG! hahahaha. :lolcry: :dance:

CP pistons are here now, and man are they a nice looking piece of kit.

Custom Pistons are on their way now. Yippee.

Good to know. He has had a few incidents, as have some sellers both domestic and overseas in the past. We try to balance the needs of our users for parts with the risks as far as access to the site goes for these people. I ask that people remember we have no control over what people do. You trade at your own risk on the forum, we have no buyer protection. We suggest that with overseas sellers stick to paypal. Thanks for the feedback.

Hello, no, not the last 2 weeks, I actually have some work to do. lol. :dance: :lolcry: But I am looking to have the manifolds made soon so I can finish work on it in the holidays, I have a feeling December wont be quite as bad as Novemeber, but will have to wait and see. I'm still waiting for the Custom Pistons to be made, and shipped over.

Had a play with retarding the ignition on throttle application, it was ok, but it sort of settled the delivery down and smoothed it out, be a nice gravel setting I think. So in the end I added yet more fuel and put the same ignition advance back on and it responds great and the afr doesnt spike too much at all now when you crack it open. Had my leaky diff pinion fixed. Damn chinese seals are crap. My clicky caliper woes have returned, I'm looking into fitting the U13 caliper right now, so I might end up with a rear brake upgrade aswell soon.

Sickening

Photo dump from my camera. mmm high resolution. :lolcry:

Sr20 isn't a heavy engine, even compared to a k series. Id say your spring rates will be close if you get it setup for a k series engine. Its a long process. Most people never actually achieve anything useful when modifying the suspension because they never even knew what a good condition standard car feels like. 1. Maintenance. Your KE70 is guaranteed to be flogged out underneath, so check the ball joints, bushes, inspect all arms and rods for bends and cracks. Inspect their mounting points for impact damage. Replace whats broken. the steering rack will be f@$ked, so rebuild that with a quaife rack and pinion, since you can't get the parts from Toyota any more. Check wheel bearings, and repack if need be. Service the brakes, machine the rotors and replace the pads if they are worn out. Might even need new rotors. 2. Improvements. Do some research. Ask yourself, what you want the car for? Will it be used for motorsport or will it be used for a street car or all purpose. Point being, if its your daily there are some limits about what you should do. Read the guide to light vehicle modification in your state. Once you are informed, talk to others who have done a similar thing and look for ideas/products/parts to utilise to improve your car. If someone tells you to put cut falcon springs and Sierra shocks, give them several uppercuts and go find someone who has actually though about it to ask. If they say that then you can instantly know they only know whatever random bs some drift kid has told them, and never done any actual development of their car. You must realise the difference between a high level circuit race car and a high spec drifter is minimal. So build it for grip with the K engine and when you swap for an sr20 you can most likely swap one swaybar and adjust your dampers to attain an easily driftable (and controllable) car. If you don't know what damper, a swaybar or a control arm does, you need to start with basics and learn that. If you do not understand what the effect of changing it will be, you have no business changing it. 3. Testing. Make one change at a time, where possible, otherwise you will never know what has caused the desirable or undesirable effects that you have created. Drive around until you can detect the change, either positive or negative and determine whether it was a valid modification. Be aware that adding too much caster will create high speed oversteer (which some people mistake for a drift). If you go too low, the dampers wont work right, if you use too stiff a spring, especially on the rear then you will never achieve rear end grip. Swaybars are the last thing you should change once the car has decent spring rates. Id suggest 6kg/mm maximum in the front and no more than 3.5kg/mm in the rear.

Added a slight ignition advance to the transient throttle control. Works good. Might up the fuel again and see what it does. Car is going great except for a leaky diff pinion, I think it spat the seal, which is a bit odd as it was all new and built by one of the better diff shops. I'm going in on Monday or Tuesday to have it fixed. Oh and my exhaust cracked as well and started clunking around so thats now been welded back up by Macs mufflers. Ive also moved the wideband further down the exhaust, so I get slightly more stable readings as before I was probably in the flame front a bit. Rear tyres are going off the boil a bit too. I feel my 20v must be going ok if it kills 205s pretty easy. :laff:

Well a race engine is a short term proposition no matter what you do, id see the coatings as a way to prolong the healthy life in harsh conditions. If your motor goes good late in the season you will have an advantage. That being said, a 2azfe is not a race engine, not without a lot more work than I plan to do. I have a mate who used to be an engine reconditioner for Repco about 15 years ago, that frequently rebuilds engines to this day. He is going to help me pull the engine down and reassemble it with the pistons and show me a few tricks along the way. He keeps telling me to build a hot head to go with the higher comp bottom end, but with a new stock head I'd rather use that for now. I will most likely get a second hand head in the longer term and slowly port that and save up for oversize valves and a set of BC stage 3 camshafts and valve springs with Ti retainers etc. Probably wont get Ti valves as Ive been doing some reading and they seem to burn away over time. Stainless might be the go. Its all down the track anyhow. For now I need to focus on headers, belt arrangement, intake, wires, ecu and a tune.

Its not all about power. If things get less hot then you can run tighter tolerances. Things will have an extended lifespan during repetitive hard use. Edit, and the cost is minimal. Competition coatings charge 80 a piston to ceramic the tops and low friction coat the skirts. Embee charges 50 a piston in the states. My diff gears cost 150to do. My top cover was only 150 to ceramic coat. Its not a lot of money, people have spent much more to gain less.

Well you can do your exhaust valves, or indeed all of them if you want to be generous with the coatings. Ive heard of combustion chambers being done aswell. I don't know how carried away I will get...

Yeah Ive gone from having no work to having more than I can possibly do. I have 2 shops to build and put in One is in Sydney so theres 3 days gone to fit it, essentially with very little help, as well as a full kitchen to design, build and fit, a whole house to quote for next year, and a bathroom that needs to be finished by the end of this week. Once I get through the next 2 weeks I should be ok. Coming out the other side of this work cycle I should be doing ok, but need to make the hay while the sun is shining. :dance:

I'm a bit short of time so I might get Sendall to weld it if he's good with Aluminium alloy. otherwise I have 3 other people keen to do it but I just don't have the time to have it done right now. I'm towing the cut over to Ricks workshop in 2 weeks to have the headers made and the oil pickup extension done, so that might be the perfect opportunity to have it all done. I will have the threads tapped on my good motor for the engine mounts while its at the engine shop having the pistons fitted. Might have them machine the clearance for my starter too.

This is the company, I asked for some info on the coatings beforehand. They seem to be the ones that Carillo and many other top US manufacturers use, I'm pretty confident that I'm in good hands. http://www.embeeperformance.com/piston-coating.php

Not to mention that the pistons are ceramiced and that means more heat being fired out the extractors in the first place.

Who said anything about a 2 door conversion? I'm using a sedan. If I wanted a 2 door I have a perfect ae86 shell here, but ae86 are played out overrated heaps of shit. I think Rick Sendall charges about 120 per cylinder to make custom extractors, he makes collectors too that are an excellent design, most of the older saloon car guys use him.