LittleRedSpirit

Y bellhousing. Starter is a hybrid between a 4efte and 4age 20v unit. Thanks for your input, its nice to hav some feedback on the motor.

Just make a fresh start with IH8UM8 or MAS2B8 :laff:

Can you put asn ra40 tcho in a ke20 like you can a ke30-55?

I actually did this on my red ae71 in 2008, but it looked too shit to have the panels misaligned. I used skateboard kingpin bushes to pack it up, with some big washers, but it wasnt as effective as I would have liked it to be, so now Id like to leave the panels all in place and just ventilate the bay. Whether its through the bay or with a fan and some ducting to evacuate the hot air.

Yeah I think I will have to. Might focus on hot air removal over cold air intake, since that is best done with ducting thru the lip anyhow where it catches the air.

And 4.1 is a lower diff ratio than 3.737. The higher the number the lower the ratio.

Well in general terms, the engine is wired right to the ecu, you don't need to have the right dash loom. The interaction between the body and the engine control system is minimal. Like I said, power feeds, grounds, fuel pump, tacho wire, there arent a lot of things to connect once the 90& of the wires which should go to the motor are connected.

If you are converting all the wiring to gts specs, then Id use the gts under dash wiring with it or its not going to make sense. If I were you I would adapt the gts engine loom into the sr5 body, which isnt as hard as you might think. You steal the power feeds for the engine loom from a switched ignition source which you can find or create, then you connect the tacho wire, wire in the fuel pump, connect your grounds and it should run fine. If you have a complete engine loom it could be as few as 10 or 12 wires that you would need to connect to make it run. Basically just power feeds and grounds, plus the engine or ecu related components athat are mounted in the body, eg fuel pump, coil, etc. Add a relay for the efi, starter if you are keen and maybe headlights to revive the brightness of 30 year old lights.

Been doing further tuning of the extremes of the map. Working on high rpm, low tps areas as well as low rpm high tps areas. Strongly considering venting the bonnet to let some of the summer heat out. Having the tyres swapped around today as I need to have 195s on all 4 corners for balance, and I have to take the tyres off my mk 3s to send them to Sydney for their new owner to mack. Might also swap in the reco 1.4kw starter today.

Yeah those TRD blower kits are the most overpriced heaps of shit. I can't imagine you needing much more power or much different power delivery to what this engine makes anytime soon. If you boosted it, you wouldnt be able to get the grip under it to make it safe. Have you had it on corner scales to assess the balance of it? Looks like the majority of the mass in tucked on or behind the front axle, so despite a few extra pounds, its probably in the right place. Can you elaborate on the extent to which you modded firewalls and the tunnel?

Yep thats it. :yes: Sam, thanks for the help with the velocity stack baseplates. :dance: Send me a message so I can fix you up mate.

Looks nice, Id estimate 2000-2500 selling price if you sold it. Not trying to be rude but the 33000 klm one was nicer. This looks like someone has used it more, despite less miles. The 33000klm one was a deceased estate of 2 very old and unroadworthy ladies, church on sundays deal.

I chopped up the oil pickup pipe today and made it all sweet. Its been scribed together and made smaller and lighter. Now I just have to go back and have it re-welded. While I'm there I'm having a water pipe made from copper to route my coolant. They have the right size pipe and can put this blingy gold finish to it, so I'm going with that. Will just keep it minimal so I don't add too much weight. Its a thick walled pipe, usually used for marine boat cooling systems. Ill probably have them supply it unfinished, then Ill get some copper tabs and mark where to put them so that it bolts in securely, then Ill go back, have em braise it up and then do the finish. It has a high point in it so I will add a bleed nipple also.

Hey thats an awesome link. I didn't think there was any great complexity to it, but it really is easy. Use the fuel return as a map reference for the reg, mount the charcoal cannister under the car and out of the bay, reg also located at the tank, single fuel line to the engine bay, sounds perfect. Its always a pain having the return run back under the inlet. Will have to source the parts from a 2azfe camry at the wreckers and see about how to adapt it.

If your description is acurate its the lowest mileage ke70 Ive ever heard of. The last extremely low mileage one I saw sell was advertised for 5k and sold for 3500 in the end. It had 33000klms.

Got my oil pickup pipe back, but I'm pretty sure they have botched it up. I'm gonna test fit today. Despite me explaining how it was supposed to be done, they left it for 3 weeks until they started it and then ʞ©$ɟed it up. I'm going into the shed today to have a look at how bad it is. I think I need to cut the flanges off and rotate them. Doh.

Looks like they left the bonnet up for some time, its so rusted under there. Be a bit more viable if the motor was able to be rehabilitated, but I doubt that. Pretty much everything is missing, no cool headers, no carbs, at least the interior still has the timing equipment.

I think the s13 tank is a poorer fit than the rt corona one. Looks like it would be a pain, if your ke70 tank is fine, then do it that way. Baffle the thing. The baffle is really not complex to install to the right person.

I heard it worked with minor mods. I tried it, it doesn't work, just a bit too different plus the rt142 tank is a bit too big and wide. Rt142 filler neck is a good one to use if you want to adapt an ae86 tank into a ke70, I used one and had it bent and I cut it down to make it work, lets you keep the 80s style fuel cap and has the breather inside the filler like an ae86 tank.

I'm not sure on the fittings. With the belt, you just adjust the tensioner (which in this case is pivoting the alternator) to its most minimal setting, then you wrap a piece of string around the pulleys and cut it to the exact length you need. Then the auto parts store has the tool to measure which part number belt you need.

Got busy today tagging the engine wiring loom with what each wire is. Should make it easy once Its in place to sort what needs to go where. Just need to cut the plugs off of the 2azfe loom and connect them. Anybody know how to wire a 2azfe cas? Might look it up. Getting all the info I need ready, firing order, relay wiring diagrams, fuel system specs, torque specs, etc. Gonna have to decide what sort of tank arrangement I will use. I'm not too keen to go full on fuel cell, Id prefer a jdm tank, but might be easier to mod an adm tank to suit. The camry has a returnless fuel system, with the filter inside the fuel tank with the pump and sender, and the charcoal can nearby. The only reason for this being emission reduction. I might just convert it to a traditional fuel system with an AEM fuel rail, or I did find a place on the interwebs that sells an adaptor to convert the stock rail to a return system. Anyone done anything with a returnless system before?

Put some pics up.

Its all good mate, got a call from Mungi Mods today he has got an alright s13sr radiator for me. Thanks though. :wink:

Man that sucks, all the best with finding a new car and taking home some spare kneecaps. :blinks:

Using my psychic powers I will tell you that you have recently lowered the car and not invested in an adjustable panhard rod.