LittleRedSpirit

And I just spoke to Rick Sendall who is making the extractors, it goes in in 2 weeks to have the mild steel 4-2-1s made. I will ceramic them too for a few extra hp. Rick is also going to be making the L pipe I need for the oil pickup mod, and moving the drain bung in the sump to the lowest point. If I haven't done it by then I will get him to weld up the inlet aswell. Then i can try and wire the slut. I will need to splurge on an ecu soon aswell. The i will have to start thinking about a cage and preparing a chassis so I don't get into some serious trouble. I'm thinking an AE71 with 9s all round and an f series diff, since I have 2x corona F series sitting there waiting to be raped.

Just ordered the custom Carillo Pistons. All paid for. Yippee! Ceramic and low friction skirts too. 11:1 CR and std bore. :dance:

Yes Stuart your email was helpful. I will go with Carillo. I'm looking at 900.56 US to my door for custom pistons with ceramic and low friction coatings applied, and rings and pins included. Not bad for custom Carillo gear. I'm placing the order now. :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:

I've decided to purchase the CP pistons in std bore 11:1 CR. I'm getting coatings done in Brisbane by Competition coatings. I may see higher rpm someday, maybe not. Either way its an investment that I'm happy to make. Id probably invest in rods if I was to cam it up, but I don't know about it now at this time as it wont see higher rpm than stock, it wont need to with the right inlet and exhaust.

Just emailed Brian Crower back and asked whether to use CP or JE and also for more info on their coating products.

Just got email from Brian Crower, custom pistons in std bore (ironic much?) would be 600 US. 50 extra for coating. They can do a custom rod to sweeten the rod ratio with a shelf piston (or biscuit), but its 900 US plus 600 for custom pistons on top. I can get either JE or CP pistons, not sure what is better kit, but if they are custom ordered you can get either. Any suggestions on brand? Definately getting the coatings done.

Well get mad and hurt if you want my friend, I feel my response to your query has your best interests at heart. Its not always down to what you have done, but quite a lot of shit can go wrong (or right) depending how you do something. You don't have to book an appointment and take your car down there like a roadworthy before the car is modified, but you do need to give them a call and describe in way more specific detail your plans and make sure you don't raise any red flags. They will happily talk to you for 10-15 to make sure you are on the right track. For example, I have tried to be very slick with the way everything has come together in my AE71, I got a mod plate last year and they wanted to do engine, seats, and the brakes. I used a JDM ae86 diff that bolted in so no mod plate needed. Same with my fuel system, was from a jdm ae86 and didnt require plating. He inspected my seat rails and how the seats were fitted and then was happy to plate the car. Other things you may be required to do would be to reduce the seating capacity if you remove the rear seat and belts for weight reduction or to fit a cage. Most people wont plate a car for wheels or suspension as that's too easy to change anyhow. You get in trouble for that if you don't flare your gaurds to cover or lower the car too much. To find who to call, you can have qld transport fax you the list of approved persons to look over your mods. Its not a comptrehensive list of all who can do the work but its all the ones that take enquiries from the general public, and as such they don't mind getting initial calls to kick ideas around, thats part of the process.

Our numbers differ.?

If you can't even be bothered to look in the right place, how do you expect to ever find out? Just do whatever you want and then suffer later on, or talk to an engineer now and then you will know. I can't believe you refuse to talk to an expert but still want info from a forum full of random people in different states and countries with different laws. What is the world coming to? If you want the info then you need to talk to an expert or read the rules. Cross that bridge now or youll be stuck on the wrong side of shit creek.

The rods you guys were referencing.

I'm pretty certain 1azfe and 2azfe use the same block. So yes I believe its an easy fit for a 1azfe crank into a 2azfe block. It should just work. I feel if you were going to build a revevr, dynmically a 1azfe would be superior thanks to a better rod ratio. For a turbo setup, best to keep the capacity and use all the exhaust volume it pumps to spool a bigger turbo and not chase the peak rpm cpability. I have a sort of philosophy going, I just want a torquey NA power band that cuts at about 6500. I can do this with standard internals minus the compression ratio I want, hence the need for pistons. If I ever do build another motor I will make it purpose built for either rpm or boost, whatever I decide, but I feel the design is inherently for minimal rpms. They have a lot of low friction and weight reduction done to help with conservation of energy, so they are highly geared towards efficiency and low down torque. I want the motor to breath nice but still give low rpm torque. The capacity will be nice to have pulling me, and if I ever boosted it it would stay 2az and then not push far past the stock redline. I'm not trying to build a donkey into a horse, or to have unrealistic expectations.

Its pretty basic if no machining is required. And its easy now when the motor is out of the car. You can call it whatever you want. Doenst change the fact that it will be done.

Well I've found plenty of near stock scions with about 200hp atw, basic mods, just better headers (but still a poor design thanks to tight bay clearances), cold air intake pipe, Lightened flywheel, and 11:1 pistons. I have not yet seen an itb version of this motor, as it simply doesn't fit in the fwd cars. I'm pretty excited about how it might perform. Interestingly, removal of the balance shafts which are kinda small restores only 6-7 hp atw, so f@$k that, ill pick more than that up by raising compression, itbs, a nice set of 4-2-1s and a good tune.

Been too busy with work to do anything. Perhaps this week one day I will find the time to go and finish the tubes up with a linisher. Then it just needs welding. The spacing is perfect Sam, Job well done.

Everyone always gets carried away with the hp potential. Can I remind you fellas that its going in a sub 1000kg car. Its not a pissing contest, its a different thing, its all about minimal weight. Thats what the 2azfe is all about. don't think of it in terms of HP per litre, think in terms of hp per kg of engine. That puts this engine squarely competing with 4age, 4k, 2tg, 18rc, et, and it smashes each and every one of them, even in choked up stock form. Ive made up my mind, I am buying 11:1 JE pistons for it asap, as I want them some day and I know that the exchange rate is good now and wont be forever. When it hits 1.00:1.00 dollar again, Ill order a set. :laff:

Just got your package in the mail Sam, looks like some very neat work you have done. I will have it welded up asap and put piccies up when done. Once the inlet is on, I need to modify the oil pickup with a simple 90 degree pipe bend. I then need to set up an idler pulley of some kind and then I should be able to start wiring it up. I'm having Rick Sendall make headers with a 4-2-1 design on this vehicle to draw some extra torque from it. The headers will be mild steel for strength and durability, and because vvti sounds really raspy through a stainless exhaust. Not a fan of that. I want the complete experience from driving a car and that includes some sound that's appealing. I don't know what pipe size to use, but I'm thinking in general somewhere around 2.5 inches would be perfect. I might even comp coat the entire exhaust to keep the gasses flying out of it. Definitely the headers will be done. I'm considering buying some high comp pistons and having them ceramic coated before installation. I don't know if I want to spend a grand right now though to achieve it.

Engine number is on the exhaust side at the gearbox end of the block, just above the starter.

Might be in a mk 2 corona, but I could be wrong.

So clean, well done anyhow.

Look for any vacuum lines that are damaged, split, or perished. Look to make sure that all openings on the manifold are closed. Make sure the TB is in good order and that it shuts all the way. Look over the alloy cast manifold, castings are known for cracking. Especially around the bolts where it mounts to the head/tvis plate. Make sure the manifold is installed with the right gasket too. Inspect the tvis plate too. It might crack or leak somehow.

Brake fluid is nasty, so make sure you clean it all up well with a lot of water to flush it away. It works like paint stripper, in fact, I used to strip bikes with it as a kid. If the fluid is leaking it can't be too hard to find, have a look at all the rubber lines, there are 3 of them, one at either front wheel and one that attaches the diff to the car in the middle above the rear axle. They often slpit and age and allow fluid to leak. You should be able to identify the brake fluid easy enough its gotta be there somewhere.

So Ive been pushing on with this while Sam helps me with the manifold components. Ive been looking to sort my belt arrangement out. I have a whole lot of different alternator straps, bolts, and another design of idler. I still might need to have a 6 rib pulley made or modify something to suit, but I'm not sure yet, I specifically went to the wreckers to look for any belt adjustment equipment that I can adapt into the build, so with what I have it should give me a lot of raw material for fabrication. I did see that a v6 camry has a tensioner system on the ac pulley. Which could help me if the belt offset and ac compressor mounting were the same, but I don't think they are.

Thanks Matt. I'm installing a chrome bumper soon. Picked it up last night.

Hey Sam I reckon maybe you can leave it as it is, just simply because I think it will warp less as it is, and there's no reason I can't have it cut after welding it. What do you reckon?