LittleRedSpirit

Hello yall. Off to the test and tune again tonight. Have made about 200 map revisions with the wideband since my last visit. So will be racing tonight and datalogging the flat strap runs for further tuning. I hope its not too busy if it doesnt rain I'm there. Have got a beamer and my mates Sprinter and a mates nimbus all coming along to race, so steal a car from someone and come race!

Spotted yellow ae82 sedan with rollaclub sticker on it getting tyres at apache wholesale tyres Rocklea yesterday while coming back from a job.

Off to the drags tonight! Come along and race! $45, and you need covered shoes, long sleeves and an as1698 helmet.

The bloke welding the manifold reckons easy 200+hp with just the mods I have planned. As long as the power is around there somewhere but it leaps forward at any rpm when you give the gas. Alloy carriers? I assume you mean alloy 3rd member carriers for the diff. I don't know of anywhere specifically, but there is a high end race engineering shop here at Kedron that does sheetmetal housings, and has their own ridiculoysly good systems for the rear end so you can adjust camber and toe on the live housing. They us a ball and socket system to drive the hubs, its amazing gear. You can talk to them on 07 3861 4205. They do a lot of v8 super car stuff, I think 888 motor sport resells their axles to most v8 super car teams with compatible gear. They can build you the toughest of all live axle diffs for around 4 grand.

Thats a nice power figure, but Id really like to see the curve aswell. Sounding great!

Today I finished the shaping/fabrication part of the inlet once nd for all. I ground angles on the tubes at either end to bring the line of the throttles down under the bonnet better. The front corner where the tps is is right about flush with the bonnet skin, so thats close enough for me. Ideally Id like to do curved trumpets in a box, so a slight bulge in the bonnet should be all i need to make it all clear nicely. I'm really happy with the precision of the alloy components for the manifold, and hopefully tomorrow I can drop it at the welders workshop to be finished. I'm also going to get him to tig on some lumps of alloy so that I can fit a brake booster barb and some smaller barbs under the throttles that I can connect to a vacuum manifold for the map sensor and possibly ISCV if I use one. Once it was all machined up, I was able to measure from valve top to butterfly - 192mm, which by my basic itb design principles should be making peak power at around 7000rpm, which is about all the rpm I have to play with, so hopefully it tunes quite well once built. Its about 240mm from valve top to the top of the throttle face, so to get my desired 350mm inlet tract I will need to add 110mm trumpets, which is fine because I have room for up to around 150mm trumpets anyhow. So I think curved trumpets in a box is the go. I also cut open the standard oil pan to reveal the space inside. I left the metal intact at the new lowest point, so I could sit the pickup screen at the appropriate place and design the right angle extension piece I need to connect the 2 flanges. This will be organised tomorrow as well hopefully. I guess I have a little renewed motivation this week as I might be deep into some more shop fitting jobs in a few weeks so this may be the only time I have to do it for a bit, so I need to make the most of it. After these 2 jobs are done, I will have to design a tensioner setup for the 6 rib belt that works, as the stock one is pretty useless once you delete the ac and power steering. I have 2 or 3 ways to do it, just need to decide which is the least work and most useful and go with that. Then I need my headers made and to make a scratch loom for the adaptronic ecu that will control the engine. Then I need to drop it into the ae86 complete chassis I have here and look at having my f series diff modified to fit into the chassis aswell, then a drives haft of course to complete it all. So not a whole lot of work but I can see the headers, loom, ecu and diff mods adding up to a pretty penny. Will have to sell a few bits I don't need to keep this thing on the boil. Peace!

Thanks mate, I see your car is getting some love now, so hopefully not a long while till youre in action with it, we will have to go for a drive asap. As I write this I am sitting at the free internet lounge at the Virgin club @ Sydney airport. We just got an allnight shopfit done and were lucky enough to arrive at the airport with the owner of the company, hence the access to the lounge. The flight is delayed a fair bit so I have no choice but to eat free food from an extensive buffet, drink free fat yak and beez kneez beers while watching the planes come and go for the next few hours. Theres some terrific eye candy in here too, some model types and the like. Its good to be alive, now to settle in and have a few more beers. Oh did I mention I'm also being paid by the hour! Like I said, life is good! Peace rollaclubbers!

So retuning to suit the exhaust is still happening slowly, and I'm still looking for the ideal transient enrichment settings, its more about setting up the car to feel the way you want it to feel. I went into the workshop with Mungi Mods and Timbo today and Mungi did some rust fixes for timbo on his panda, which came out great. While they were tooling around there, I got under my car and did some bits and pieces to once and for all make my caliper shut up and behave on the rear discs. I had this kind of steadily annoying issue where I had a caliper clicking and the handbrake would progressively get soggier and soggier until it wouldn't work properly. I put it down to worn caliper slides for the most part allowing the caliper to grip turn then skip back to how it should be with light braking application. I decided to recondition the handbrake system and wind back and re bleed and bed in the rear brakes again before connecting the handbrake. I fitted new Genuine Toyota handbrake cables and left the handle disconnected. I also wound back the pistons a full rotation with an angle grinder nut spanner (with the 2 teeth on it - works terrific). I then put it back together, and I pumped the brakes a bit to set the pads and pistons back tightly together, then I re bled and topped up the system. After a 5 minute test drive that included several 80-20 klm/hr test stops to bed the brakes in again, I returned to the shop and connected the handbrake cable at the handle. So far so good. All noise has ceased, handbrake feels like new again, one click holds strongly, and the pedal is a touch firmer than before and the brakes just feel better all round, it has made the whole car feel great. Interestingly the new cables have allowed me to connect the plastic cable guide bushes back into their holders, which I couldn't do before, its got about 5mm clearance before the splitter/balancer wants to hit the bush clips once its all adjusted and in place. The splitter/balancer seems to sit horizontal and square as well, which some people claim they have issues with. Consequently the E brake is more powerful and requires less effort. I just hope it stays that way. :yes: On the way home I did some data logging with the ecu datascan. Its as easy as sticking in an sd card and hitting record. Makes CSV format which is great in MS excel. I like the format more than adaptronics data. Its the same data as what the adaptronic outputs but in more readable units and with full headings.

If you must get the sierras then get front shocks from a sierra/jimny. Most list Jimny not Sierra these days, however, you will have a low and unsafe car with next to no suspension travel and no droop, which just means when you're at the ragged edge you will skip off and lose contact with the road, which will mean you can't control the car and end up crashing. Popping the inside wheel into the air is a sign of a lack of droop, not a fast car. There is no substitute for quality dampers, and correctly wound springs, until you actually bother to get something decent sorted, you will never know. Not for street use!!!!

Sawybars would be an investment you don't need to make. Id get good spring rates first. If you want pure grip, look for about a 5kg front, 3kg rear rate combo. Get excellent dampers, koni or bilstein, all the jap stuff is designed for golfcourse smooth roads and super stiff 'drift' style spring rates. Replace all your bushes with Nolathane or Super pro type. If you can afford it, convert some xt130 twin spot struts to coilovers so you can height adjust. Bigger Swaybars will give you less grip. The bigger front will cause understeer, the bigger rear will cause oversteer, put the 2 together you have a real mess. A car that wont turn in and when it does it will want to spin or run wide if you touch the throttle, depending on the grip available. don't go too low. One overlook facet of suspension design is droop. The shocks and springs need to ride in the middle of the stroke so that you can not top out your suspension when the car becomes unweighted. The other main improvement you can do is to add an lsd to get the car more balanced on the power and turning tighter. You will get more power on the tarmac with an lsd. None of this is cheap. you are looking at about a $4000 list of parts and labour. If you can do it yourself you will save some money. Struts for conversion - $150 Coilover kit with spring - $300 otomoto Cut and weld strut to suit your damper selection - $250 Excellent shocks all round - $800 Bushes to fit prothane etc - $150 Rear springs custom wound - $200 AE86 diff with 2 way lsd - $1500. Camber tops for camber adjustment - $300 Many people will tell you to: Put cut falcon springs in - MISTAKE! Put Sierra Shocks in - MISTAKE! Cut stock springs - Mistake! Stiffer swaybars - Mistake! Go really low - Mistake! lock your diff - Mistake! Put in 8/6 kg spring combo - Mistake! If your looking for advice from someone and they tell you to do any of the above for grip tuning, then they should be ignored. don't be afraid to laugh in someone's face. If they want to be proved wrong then just finish your car the right way then take them to a track day and burn them off.

My thoughts exactly. I found a really classy alloy welder so its time soon to get the inlet finished.

5k

http://www.pressroom.com.au/press_release_detail.asp?clientID=2&prID=4538&navSectionID=2&WT.mc_id=Email|EDM_FT86 Just got email from Toyota, its officially released now apparently. Official Press release ftw.

Had a similar thing once mate. My mum had this little red hyundai acent for a few years. I borrowed it once for a week while my car was in the shop, which was cool causemum works from home. Anyhow, when I picked it up, mum was going on some special diet and despite me saying I didnt want it, she insisted on sending me home with the dairy products from the fridge, which consisted of thickened cream and yoghurt. I refused it so mum left it on the back seat floor and said, grab that out when you get home. Of course I did not. So I used the car for a day or 2, got mine back and parked up the accent. At the end of the week I got in it to drive it home to mums and of course you know what had happened, the cream and yoghurt had popped and despite being in a platic bag, they managed to seep rotten dairy juices into the carpet, and now forever after each time I got in that car, I could smell the rancid milk products.

For some reason i find diesel fumes to be completely wrong. I love that smell when you get into your car, its an old car, hot day, its a mixture between the faint hint of some previous owner having been a smoker, and slightly aged foam and fabric, diluted with enough fresh air and time, it just smells glorious, you can smell the history. If antique buyers look for a patina, that is the nasal equivalent. An invisible Patina. :lolcry:

Yes please. Pov pack ftw. Knowing the typical ae86 owner, they'll still remove any sound deadening and try for 1000 kg.

From toyota australias website: "The rear seatbacks fold down to the front to create a luggage space that can accommodate four sports wheels or two golf bags." Sounds like they expect people to drift it on the weekends.

Yes thats it.

Well now the manual just says to oil the threads when reassembling. I just thought rod bolts were under a lot of stress and most people are fairly fussy about them. I might fit new ones anyhow just to be safe.

That would be awesome. Do you reckon I can reuse the rod bolts, its a new motor, but should they be only torqued once?

Need to source a headgasket to suit standard 88.5 mm bore. Also wondering if I should reuse the near new rod bolts or change them. Opinions? Can any of my Toyota homies help out? :lolcry:

Thanks alot! Well, there was this persistent rattle in the exhaust. Turns out the cat had started to rattle so being only 1 year old I went back and saw the guys at Right Price Exhausts and got them to redo the system. The cat was free under warranty, and I got a new muffler fitted, mainly because I wanted to install some 2 1/4 pipe. I have a section of 2 inch pipe and the rest of the system is 2 1/4. The resonator was swapped out for a commodoore one, and all the rubbers replaced. Now its solid as f@$k, doesnt rattle and revs a bit freer up high in the rpm. It is a little more dead at tiny throttle openings, but its probably a better compromise between high rpm hp and low rpm torque now. I also had the system pulled away from the tailshaft cause it clipped when you raised the car and it had slowly killed a pinion seal from heat. Now its perfect!

Well I can't wait to see it with a few bugs squashed on the front. :laff:

Nice frame Trev. Pretty unique shapes these old Haros. They were the shit when I was a kid, with Dave Mirra ripping the ramps on them.