LittleRedSpirit

If you go further back in liteace models, the light truck type L box has the same union pattern as a W box, so there is another source of a W to K scenario right there. From behind a 4k in a lite truck type liteace. Has an E series diff with duallies aswell being a truck.

Made a start on the cooling system. Found a really tightly curved radiator hose that will let me fit the cooling pipes the way I want. I have also found a pipe that runs along the side of the motor and points out to the side a bit at the end. looks like it should work fine, I just need to find a short straight piece for behind the motor. I think an SR20 in fwd mode has the right pipe for behind the head. Will just add tabs to solid mount them. Need to get an s13 radiator. Anyone? Just need shitty one to test fit with. S13 SR type.

Just got my starter back, its had new brushes and contacts, cause some asshole had put it together wrong and hurt the contacts. Its been also been cleaned, painted and the bearings regreased.

Been organising more stuff. Ordered some 95mm velocity stacks today, and got in touch with Sam Q about baseplates. The trumpets are going straight to Sams to be fitted to base plates. Also ordered some wires for it. I ordered a loom to suit e420d/440 Adaptronic ECUs. Worked out that I need a 1 metre long belt for the 6 rib pulley system. Fitted the lower engine mounts.

Good question, I don't think so. These are kind of for people who tune their own cars/racers so I guess its not on their wish list. Its not like a normal gps, all the features are about datalogging not navigation.

So I upgraded the firmware on the ecu datascan. I also scrounged up a copy of Igo 8 and loaded that to the SD card. Behold, I have a clock that sets itself and gps data in my logs to work with now too. I can use the ecu data scan to create a gps way pointed race track, load it onto a skin and watch myself circulate it on the screen, keep lap times, and analyse my logs from any one point on the track. I love it. Oh and I also have a gps speedo, so that takes the pressure off needing to care when you swap final drive or rolling diameters.

Just got the lowered harder engine rubbers. Need to ring and see if my pickup pipe is finished yet, be nice to finish all these small details over the weekend. Could hopefully have a cooling system, sump finished, pickup extended, and the mounts and belts sorted once and for all by the end of next week. Then I just need to sell enough crap to fund an ecu purchase. At this stage looking to get the basic select ecu from adaptronic. Might just buy a loom so that I can start to wire it. Thankfully adaptronic has wired and tuned a rav 4 2azfe for a customer a little while back, so I can get a base map easy and then self tune. Might never need the dyno for this one. If I want to find out how toyota tuned certain things I can plug in the ecu data scan and log what the atndard computer is doing. I love that feature.

Yeah I will go again soon. Waiting for some cool evenings. :laff:

20vs and microtech ecus do not get along well. If you had searched and read the rersults, you might have found that Microtech ecu has a long history of failure in tps only tunes. Get an adpatronic, motec, haltech, autronic, ems or a set of carbs.

driving this...

"Understeer scares the driver, oversteer scares the passengers" - anonymous. "Dear God" - Terry Herryman - Ari Vatenens co driver at Isle of Man rally 1983. http://youtu.be/0ubdVZP1oV8 2 minutes in.

http://youtu.be/5PBj3ErPyPs

Got a spare top cover to check overall height. Its a tall bitch. So have now ordered some Cusco -12mm engine mounts to slip in there. Will require a slight bulge in the bonnet once done, but I knew that all along. Much easier to mod a bonnet than a crossmember. Its as low vs far back as the shape of the engine allows, you could maybe get one more inch of rearward movement with a completely custom sump, but after that the limiting factor is the alloy lower crankcase, which is a bit harder to rework.

Fitted AE86 Starter motor. Dropping off ae92 high torque unit to be serviced this arvo. Might get a wheel alignment aswell.

So the wreckers had nothing, so I used my credit note to get a 2azfe top cover and will use that to check bonnet clearance on the other build. Also went to trade tools and got cir clip pliers and a propane bottle to allow me to solder some big cables together really nicely. Mainly for putting lugs on my ground and starter cables better. Really want to do everything I can to make the thing start great. Will pop past the shed one day this week and swap back to the older more reliable starter and have this one that's annoying me fixed up. I was able to fix the tolerance in it by cooling it down (when it wouldn't start after lunch), which simply meant pouring 3 litres of water over it slowly, then presto, started right away.

I have a credit note from GDM wreckers to use up. I have 2x 4age starters already, one was overhauled (which only cost $50 at my auto leccy) and the one I am using now came from my last halfcut. Its the modern 1.4kw jobbie, sounds like a hilux is starting up when it fires, but it has dirty or worn contacts meaning that with peak operating temp, it just goes click and doesn't turn. Easily fixed by a clean and a $10 set of contacts. Cheers for the info about the leccy but I got a guy here in Rocklea a bit closer to home.

Handbrake seems to be still working, its better than ever so far. Overall the calipers feel the same as the others to drive one, but they don't seem to rattle apart when you use the E brake. Yay! Ive tested the bias and the fronts lock first, so that's just how it should be. Off to the wreckers today to find a starter to replace the one that needs new contacts. Sick of push starting or waiting till it cools to get going again.

Now turning attention to the airbox configuration. Might invest in something like this one, its made by reverie. A little expensive but design and size wise it would be ideal.

Me Rikey. :dance:

So the new motor, does it come with a starter? :laff:

Fat. Could pick up transmissions from Mars with those Satellite dishes!

This is the caliper, toyo diy has this as the te71 levin disc rear caliper.

Well Ive done the celica caliper mod. Its pretty good. The Brackets that bolt on the diff ae the same, except for the shielding, which needs to be cut away from the mount holes on the ae86 caliper to allow the celica units in. The calipers bolt on, but are a little flusher to the bracket than the ae86 items, so much so that if you use ae86 rotor, bracket and celica caliper, the fixed part of the celica caliper will just score the rotors. This means the celica rotor is 1-2 mm taller than the corolla one. Being that they use the same mounting bracket, and the same axle, then I can deduce that the caliper from the celica has less offset and its rotor has more to compensate. By comparison the ae86 parts have the reverse, a shorter rotor and a caliper with a shad more offset. I was simply able to use the celica caliper on the ae86 rotor and bracket by simply tin snipping away the extra shielding, and by slipping in one broad, flat high tensile washer in between the caliper and the bracket to shift it over that little bit. Its all bled, bedded, handbrake connected, with new Penrite sin high temp fluid, and of course, the new Braided lines from Goodridge. I also chucked on some 15x7.5 work fins cause they had good tyres on them, even though they reduce my track by 20-30mm overall. I ʞ©$ɟing pray these caliper give me years of trouble free use before they wear out. They do look to be easier to fix if the slides ʞ©$ɟ up than the ae86 units. There are parts you can just replace.

I have actually solved the belt issue this afternoon, just as I described above. I cut off the nut for moving the tensioner, then I filed it neat. I then swapped from a back of belt pulley to a front of belt pulley that I had bought at repco for this mod about a year ago when I first thought about it. It fits, with a small spacer behind. I then wound some string around the pulleys to check the belt travel, and all is well, it tensions well, or will do once I remake the tensioner as a mechanical one, unless I can find a shorter hydraulic one that's just like the 2azfe but a bit shorter (any ideas, Toyota Techs?). So there we go, job is done. Its even an alloy pulley, just a black powdercoated one. Pics over the weekend. I can't believe how easy it was to sus it out. :dance: :dance:

The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going to ditch the hydraulic tensioner in favour of a threaded mechanical one. Then I can cut off the tensioning nut section (that lets you move the tensioner when its under tension) and swap the stock tensioner/idler pulley for one thats just as small a diameter, if not smaller and designed to hold the inside of the belt, instead of the outside. Then I can use stock alternator position, stock water pump position, and not need to make anything except a threaded tensioner shaft, and of course find the different pulley I need. Saves weight, makes it easier to achieve with no complicated fabrication/welding. Just some cutting and sourcing the right parts to lock a threaded adjuster.