LittleRedSpirit

Yep. Jindalee.

Went skateboarding today and shot this 24 frame sequence of my friends manual.

How many times can you strip the same hole and retap it. Next time would be a time sert or similar device anyhow.

To conclude my stripped foot peg bolt saga, I have a thread guy coming in the morning to repair it. $75 onsite repair, as opposed to $120 for the correct bit and diy kit at the bearing shop. Bit of a no brainer there.

Could be a few blown bulbs also but multiple problems usually = problem with main feed/ supply to system.

WGMG. Working all night until 3 am ish putting in a shop for someone, to finally get to sleep at 5am from being too overtired. Then being woken up at 8am by pointless questions from a client who cannot even work out how to get a poster into a light box. Then the client asks me to drive to where they are almost an hour away to do some pointless bits and pieces on 3 hours sleep. Not happening, you can remove 3 pieces of masking tape yourself now that the glue is dry and surely you can manage to open a lightbox, which requires nothing but a small suction cup. So naturally i fell back to sleep and woke at 2pm. Haha. Also, when you work at a Westfield centre, they control all the lights from a central computer. So you just need to ring the office and someone puts a code in and the lights come on. Unless you work at Wesrtfield Strathpine, where they turn the lights off at 10PM and tell you helpful things like: "Contractors must bring their own lighting", at 10PM once the lights have already shut down. Terds.

My new fibreglass hatch has turned up now. Its actually surprisingly well made. Not bad for $420 shipped to me. And light, oh my god its light. I'm looking at making a polycarbonate window also for it (found a good supplier of 3mm polycarbonate sheet). So I'm looking at maybe at a sub 10kg hatch and glass I think. So that's one more item of the to buy list. I just need to find a bonnet and then thats all my panels sourced. I don't think I will buy a glass one though as I don't want to pay a premium for a bonnet I will be butchering.

I'm sure someone would pay it these days. What's the mileage? It seems everyone has a perfect example if you ask them, have you seen and driven the car? Unless its in the best of shape its not worth 3k. Condition is key. At the end of the day its a stock 80s car, so you need to not consider and pay for the potential, but what value is in the car right there and then for the buyer. Just because it has log books for some services doent make it perfect either. A full service history for a 30 year old car requires a filing cabinet worth of documents. As provenance I would want every 10000klms or 6 month max spaced services by a reputable mechanic that filled the book out and actually read the procedures and had enough of a brain to do things that weren't part of the schedule if need be. Id expect receipts for a few sets of tyres, a few wheel alignments, some suspension work(it will have needed bushings and tie rod ends a couple of times over at least) perfect boots on the steering rack, no rust or dents, good rubber seals that lock the water out around the windows. It should have used a few sets of points and a coil or two, basically unless someone has gone to the extent of making sure every part on the car is perfectly maintained then its cannot be worth 3 grand. To put it into perspective you can have any common mid to late 90s car for this kind of money now, so consider the condition of the 30 year old thing carefully. If the value isnt there, don't spend it.

I would call that colour mustard. Its an impossible thing to match a colour from a computer screen unless you have your monitor adjusted to perfect true colour like a graphic designer would.

Not for the first mango of the season.

WGMG, undoing the bolt that secures the left footpeg on my moto (for the first time, ever) and finding that the thread was sus, then on subsequent trial fitment of new footpeg pulling the bolt out to bring a few threads with it and effectively clean out the thread from the hole. I'm fairly certain that whoever fitted the footpegs to my bike originally managed to start the bolt crooked most likely with a rattle gun, then back it off and force it in straight. So when I tried to refit it went in beautifully for a few turns then tightened up and ʞ©$ɟed the hole. Not happy. I guess I need to helicoil it its an aluminium frame. :osama:

http://www.rollaclub...mes-discussion/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/11184-rollaclub-14-mile-and-track-times/

Find a thread entitled 1/4 mile and track times and have a read.

You only sell them cause you're growing and move on to bigger things. Or should I say more capacity.

The good thing is, as you get older you generally will be better at what you do and build more high quality cars. Like E7s, Ive seen so many hotted up 120y and 180b datsuns in the last few years, and they were such shit boxes when I was a kid.

This thread is so out of control, in a good way! Well on the issue of the value of a stock ke70/ae71. If I had the 5k to spend and I was looking for a ke70/ae71, I would happily buy a stock one for that amount. Before you all go crazy, I wouldn't pay 5k for any ke70. People seem to have an attitude that theirs is best when selling. If I could cut past all that crap and find a ke70 or ae71 that is objectively able to be called perfect, why not pay 5k for it? My reasoning being that: 1. The ke70 chassis is just as workable as an ae86 to modify, this means you have a big aftermarket for it. Its fun to drive stock also. 2. Its a 30 year old car now. Thats as old as I am. I know I have been looked after well, but I have a few scars and signs of age, imagine what its like for a car on Australian roads. So the finding of an actual "as manufactured" original and perfect condition ke70 is a rare treat, as it is with any 30 year old car. Driving it home can be a treat worth 5 thousand dollars. To add perspective to this, I have only ever seen one car ever advertised that seemed worthy of consideration in this class. Like going to the dealer 30 years too late and still securing a car. If it were any of the cars listed below, people wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger. 3. Compared to the more common modified small cars, the Toyotas are a long overlooked option if you ask me. Its all about Toranas, Geminis, Escorts, Dattos, and rx mazdas to the typical Australian modified small car fan. Only now are we seeing cars minted in the 1980s come to the fore. The reason behind this is quite interesting and its the same reason that someone paid the best part of a million Australian dollars for a GTHO Phase 3. Its to do with the demographics of the car buying marketplace, and a combination of factors including the number of cars sold, the age of the people buying them, and the affluence of those people (which generally increases with age), and the popularity of the model. To cut a long story short, people who grew up seeing ke70s around are now old enough to fulfil their desires to own and modify them. I'm sure the person who bought the gtho for all that money was fulfilling their own similar ambition. This person has obviously attained the position in life which lets them afford it, and was of the right generation to have grown up appreciating it. It may well be worth less in 50 years once all the people who like them have passed away. To scale it back to the ke70 discussion, the once humble ke70 is now in demand. The kids who were once turning to them as a cheap and disposable option are now growing up into adults that have more income, more ambition and bigger ideas. So its no surprise that the kids who grew up wanting a ke70 to thrash now can afford to buy a nice one and do it up properly. There are a real lot of high spec e7s around now. There are many being well used in motor sport and with every high profile user (Lloyd smith, the TRD brothers, and every other drifter) there is increased exposure and increased appreciation for them as a nimble chassis. This again drives the value up as a wider market is created. I personally think the stock ke70 doesn't have enough equipment in it to warrant paying more than a few thousand for one in any circumstance, so the value may well not increase much further. Its just supremely important to be able to judge the condition of something when attaching a price to it. I don't agree with cars just being worth X value cause they are a KE70, its all about condition, and the biggest problem when these old things appreciate is people start paying bigger money for the shit boxes that arent worth anything.

Its simple economics of supply and demand. Look at pedalboxes. Its not Takumi putting the prices up, its all you guys that are paying soo much just to get one, when there are other options. Quite frankly if I wanted to sell my spare one, Id be an idiot to sell it for $150 these days, when everyone else is getting $250 for one. And nobody who reads this can tell me that they wouldn't do the same thing, its just how the world works. If I sold it for $150, then gauranteed the next time its sold it goes for $300.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_G_1979_TOYOTA_HILUX_RN41R-MSQ.html Its not the one with the narrow T series. Thats RN25 I think. The thing lists a w50 gearbox and a g series diff which I think is 8 inch and 4.375:1.

More like 1/4 inch or possibly smaller, definately smaller than the fuel line. Sectional volume is important. There is a place called IFS (industrial fittings sales) that does fuel and gas fitting stuff here in Brisbane. Rocklea is the suburb. They can sell you some tube on the phone and send it to you. Just confirm what size you need with calipers and order it.

At the end of he day a t50 is a rubbish box compared to a w55/7/8, which often go for less money. WGMG - Either having time and no money or money and no time. Its like I can't have both. I probably wouldn't know what to do with them if I did. PS click here to see who the most ground gears are!

lol. Just cut 2 toes off each foot and use 3/4 scale pedals. Or bind your feet like an 18th century Chinese housewife. :yes:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/40227-ae86-xe7x-ra40-60-struts-bump-steer-3d-explanation.html

With strut conversions its all about the kingpin angle. The ke70/ae71/ae86 strut is very similar to xt130 in the kingpin angle. Its not exactly the same, but I was under the impression that it added a fraction of a degree of negative camber. If you use celica struts in a ke70, the kingpin angle will be incorrect and the car will never steer like its supposed to.

Yeah kaizen is incompetent and not a skilled welder so he is out of the running for certain. I already have the 7.5 inch corona diff and the altezza lsd torsen centre to go into it, so I'm not going to change to a Hilux rear end. Thats more strength and weight than I need I think. Ma70 brakes will also be a bit too big for my application. Its not going to be a heavy car, probably lighter than a typical 4age powered ae86. I was thinking corona brakes maybe for the rear. I'm running xt130 struts up front to get the bigger stub axles and bearings for the high speed stuff, and to take the stress of big brakes more effectively. I guess I need to make them into coilovers, and to find some appropriate brake upgrade. I don't like the hilux/peugeot upgrade as the calipers weigh way too much and its unsprung weight.

Ok good to know mate. I was looking for someone who might have already made the jig to save moneys I guess. I just bought a brand new fibreglass hatch for the sprinter chassis, I'm just working on getting it freighted from Albury to here now. Now I just need to find another bonnet with the reinforcing still under it that I can chop to clear the motor a bit. Ive also bought the sock filters I need to get it running initially. Would have done more but my motorbike needed some love. I put higher rc bend bars on it, fitted some silicon radiator hoses and changed the coolant over to some fresh stuff. Interestingly I got a brilliant piece of fabrication gear this week. I was given a vertical linishing sander with a sanding disc and table at the other end. I'm going to put this to good use shaping up any incidental brackets I need and it will help flattening the face of the manifold. I have a pretty long to do list still. -mod diff and build it -find brakes for it -tailshaft fabrication -drill and tap and linish manifold -wire it -find celica thermofans and coolant filler tank -make some air ducting from radiator support to radiator core. -have the new motor stripped and fit the piustons. -cut drill and tap the new block to suit rwd. -acid clean the throttles. -find and fit a spigot bearing to the flywheel. -flare and paint the chassis. I'm debating whether to buy all new bits and pieces for this car, or whether to strip the bits I want from the 20v ae71 and sell it off. Id probably only keep the wheels, camber tops (incase I ever do a ke or ae71 again), quaife rack and the ecudata scan unit. Anyone out there looking for a well tuned 20v ae71 with a 2 way trd lsd disc rear, wilwoods, koni sport adjustables, recaro seats, coil overs, wideband 02 sensor, and modplated for engine, brakes and seats? Everything in it is reco or new. Just thinking out loud for now... Probably 13 grand in parts alone. Plus the value in the tuning. Hmm I don't think it would sell, id want at least 10 k for it in that state and nobody has ever paid that for a ke70 or ae71 to my knowledge.