LittleRedSpirit

What I hear you saying is that you'd prefer your car to handle poorly. The main reason you give it any camber at all is so that when you turn it hard you will flatten the tyre out on the road and flex it down to get the ideal contact patch. If you don't allow this to happen you are severely limiting the ability of it if you ask me. Hard does not equal fast. Not at all. Quite the opposite actually. The reason you lower a car is not to get harder suspension, its to lower the centre of gravity. If you can build lowered suspension that keeps and builds on the tactile feel of the standard car then you've done it correctly. If it corners great till it hits a bump, or pops a wheel while hard cornering it needs to be fixed. If you want it to grip and go forwards it needs to be able to squat on the rear axle a bit. When you hit bumps while cornering, you need to have the droop and travel remaining to absorb the impacts without upsetting the car unduly. If you go to the extent of coil overs and a bunch of after market suspension components and it handles like the kid down the roads car with cut falcon springs and sierra chocks then you've wasted a lot of time and money. Realistically if you install larger front brakes then you want the car to lean on them and plant the front tyres with more weight to increase their efficiency.

Just experiment, that's the fun part. :lovin: ;)

Just a few holes in your plan that I can see, or perhaps a few misconceptions from your research. I think to have a trackable amount of camber you need xt130 LCAs. Even with Cambertops. Cambertops allow camber adjustment and increase to a certain extent, but they still have limits. If you wanted over 3 degrees you would need the xt130 arms aswell. The strut towers are only so big. Lock isnt an issue, and anyhow if you want more lock fit power steer arms from an ae86. Or you can use an AJPS lock spacer. Or you can go all out and have extra teeth put into the steering rack to allow more movement. Rear coil overs are completely unnecessary until you have a roll cage that gives bracing to the floor where they bolt up. The springs meet the floor where they do for a reason. The shock bolt mount wont be up to it without reinforcing. Until you fix a lot of other geometry things with the rear end I wouldn't get too fussed. This is why AJPS is selling fronts alone most likely. BCs are fine but I prefer to have a coilover made by using a steel street strut. Personally if I were doing the work to make coil overs I would need to make them from xt130 struts as they are very similar in stub axle angles and have a larger stub axle which is more suited to big brakes and high speeds. The ae86 hubs in the front of my 20v ke70 wear bearings out quite fast. They are too small to handle the forces of the wilwood calipers and 280mm rotors fitted. Spring rates are a personal preference. You want to be stiffer front to rear. In the rear I would go for the softest most supple spring you can find that holds the car at the right height if you enjoy grip. Front rate no more than 6kg is my preference. You can go a little harder here but you will ultimately be unable to use your negative camber if you can't get some controlled body roll here. Big swaybars are a waste of time IMHO. They are oversized enough as it is. Id have a smaller one in the rear if I could find one. If you like to drift then go a bit stiffer on springs all round, but no more than say 20% stiffer. You will want an oversize rear swaybar to give a more defined link with your steering input and the rear end. It really helps roadholding to have high quality adjustable dampers installed. I use Koni Yellows and am very happy. Others prefer jap stuff. Its a preference thing, and different dampers have reputations for being better at different things. For glassy smooth roads and circuits you might prefer Tokico HTS or for rally maybe Bilsteins. For all round street and grip, maybe Konis. That said, a damper is a damper and they all just have their own character. I think the 4 way AGX dampers are kinda pointless, 4 steps of adjustment isnt enough. I prefer the Konis cause their are no clickers, you can get a really fine adjustment of them. There are a lot of after market suspension bits you really don't need. Don't get caught up buying a million bits that you don't need. Just tune things and make changes one at a time so you can learn what the effect of each mod was. If you use ae86 struts then i think the Wilwood kit is the best value and performance. It also lets you have more wheel choices than FC or FD brakes. If you USE xt130 then you can do a few different upgrades, but the easiest is the RT132 twin spot as it came factory on the strut.

Dropped off the inlet to the engine machinist next to my shed. He is going to face the throttle side of the manifold, and tap the vacuum ports for me. Also, he is chemically cleaning the throttle bodies so they will look much nicer once installed. The I can port match it once I get it back. I also had my new fuel rail turn up. I'm shifting the fuel system back to a normal style with a reg on the end of the rail, instead of at the tank like the camry does. Its just easier. This AEM fuel rail will let me do this, as the stock rail will not let you fit a regulator.

I just realised there is an engine reco shop in my shed complex, and he has all the gear to clean up the throttles on the build to look perfect again.

Just spoke to the fabricator and booked it in to have the diff mounts swapped to the rona diff, and to have the extractors made. Next week I will tow the halfcut over there and have it done. Then when it comes back I can have the diff centre fitted to the housing by diff lapping and start looking for the right brakes for it. I think I will use the 80s corona avant disc package. The idea being that I need to get the shell rolling to get the wheels on, get the body flared, paint the thing and start building it for real. The parts to buy list is shrinking bigtime now. I just need the polycarbonate rear window, the tailshaft, the ecu and thermofans really. I have an ae86 passenger seat somewhere, just need a drivers seat. I may end up taking one of the recaros out of the 20v car, or maybe Ill buy something even more lightweight and in the spirit of the build. I'm just itching to get my hands dirty again on this car. Its been sitting for a long time now and needs some love.

Found a cool photo app.

Yeah me too. I really don't think it will sound that amazing on itbs, not like a 4age. Maybe with the extra compression it would feel better. It is a VVTI engine, and they often sound quite raspy when you don't have a quiet inlet and exhaust on them.

Found a cool sketching app.

It took some restraint. Anyhow. I'm tossing up whether to buy the ecu I need to finish this or to buy a top of the line flash for my 7d. The Flash is more affordable but I could stretch to afford the ecu at this moment. Decisions, decisions.

Got the new alternator today, all sorted. I can put this whole thing behind me.

Inxpress are a freight broker. One call and they will automatically find the best deal and save you money. Been using them for a while now and they rock.

I thought you could drill them out a little and fit a bigger pin?

I swear thats the same moron I am gunning for.

Have a look through kias and daewoos mate.

Thanks guys. I am slowly sourcing all the random extras I need. Went to the wreckers as I was looking for a vacuum manifold to hook up the idle controller and the map sensor to. No luck. I got a plastic tool free charcoal canister from a Kia like the one I have in the 20v car, as well as some more radiator mount brackets and an idle controller from an au falcon to help me set things up. So I guess I need the vaccum manifold still, as well as radiator fans and an ecu, and then I guess I can wire and run it. Sadly I loaned the alternator to the dodgy mechanic 2 doors along from me in my shed complex for 'testing' as he put it. Later I find out it was a scam as he decided he would sell my brand new alternator cheap to one of his tight ass Chinese customers. As you can imagine I went right off the handle and told him I would bounce his ʞ©$ɟed up face all around the car park if he didn't replace it. His response was "I have a ʞ©$ɟed one I fix for you". I'm like "You stupid ʇ~~ɔ, you don't even realise it was a brand new alternator with an alloy pulley on it". So long story short, I believe the ass hole was always gonna sell it on me, he just wanted to say something to me that seemed innocuous enough to get a hold of it so he could sell it out from under me. So I now have learned a valuable lesson about this ʇ~~ɔ. I saw him with a customer the other day, a day or two after this went down and I was walking over to explain to them what a dishonest scamming ʇ~~ɔ he was and to go off on him again when he decided to frantically run over and promise me a brand new genuine one from Toyota. I think he knows I will destroy shit for him if he doesn't do the right thing. Then he tries to shake my hand and say "So we friends again?" I pull back my hand and say, "not at all but I might not bash your face in if you do the right thing and replace it". He promised he had the alloy pulley still and I said "Well If I get it back and its all scratched up I'm still gonna give you a flogging." He ʞ©$ɟing well better have a brand new alternator for me asap or he is going to regret this shit. Anyhow, He has now been told to remain more than 50 feet from my workshop at all times and I have severed all ties with this ʞ©$ɟing muppet. You just cannot trust anyone eh, even if they seem helpful. I think he thought he could take advantage of this young bloke but I can assure you that's a fatal error of judgement. I told him straight up, "I am an honest person, you have now broken my trust, as such I will have nothing more to do with you." I leant this guy heaps of shit over the last 2 years, and whenever I needed his help I had to pay for it, so ʞ©$ɟ him. He is a big time gambler like many Chinese, and unfortunately when someone has a gambling problem, they become extremely conniving and will say anything to anyone to get away with shit. I know this better than most, as I had a lucrative business destroyed by a problem gambler a few years back. As far as I'm concerned if you love going out and gambling your family's hard earned cash away, you can eat a dick as you pretty m,much have to be one of the worlds biggest scumbags to get your priorities that far wrong. I have no time for you. I work far too hard to give my money away so cheaply.

People who own any car larger than a full size sedan that act like they own every inch of the road. Especially when they cut people off from the left lane at the lights. People are cuing and there's no real merge ahead back to one lane, but they still fly up the left and rip it in just to overtake 3 or 4 cars. There's this one spot in particular that shits me on my way home from work, and these wankers literally swap lanes aggressively to cut people off and then when someone becomes wise to their bullshit and refuses to let them in, they park and block a whole lane of traffic from advancing on a green light while they wait for all the cars in their desired lane to depart, the lane which I am usually in. I have several plywood blocks in my car now with "learn to drive ʇ~~ɔface" written on them, I'm ready for next time, someone's gonna get that in the face. We are all in a rush, what gives someone the right to do this shit? aside from their own sense of entitlement. 9/10 times its a woman also. There's also one place in Bardon where the busses have their own turning lane and a preferential sensor, and when I'm in the car lane and someone uses the bus lane to cheat, I throw coins at their paintwork and chip their shit. I'm happy to admit to road rage, not because I am impatient, but because if I am doing something that shits me but that is appropriate for society, I don't like to see people play me like a sucker and cheat the system. I have a sense of justice that overpowers all my other senses sometimes.

Sounds like an insufficient ratio of talent:speed.

I now have sourced a d max bonnet with the elevated vents in it. I should be able to cut the middle out and flatten the top which shouldn't be too hard.

I never thought it was illegal to have it, its just illegal to use it.

Yeah a cabin full of nitrous sounds like a hilarious way to die. I once saw a skyline at a workshop called "Drag me" while I was getting some dyno tuning done. The thing had a race fuel tune and a big nos setup. The owner poured a drum of C16 into it, swapped to a full Nos bottle, got it running, pointed towards the door of the shed and took off for the Gold coast. Plenty of people drive on the street with it, but its not a good idea. I'm pretty sure this dude was a salesman of some sort and not the kind of guy who needs to do a tax return. If you get my drift. Leave it up to these kind of morons.

Who can identify these two Brothers? A Karma point to the first person to do so.

$ wise VN motors are good. I think its preferable to use something Japanese and aluminium. If you use an alloy engine you could get by with minimal balance changes in the car. That would make for the ultimate KE me thinks. There is a member on here with a 2grfe ae86. Thats where its at. :lovin:

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Went to the wreckers today. Found my map sensor, idle controller, and a whole bunch of brackets and bushes for the pin type radiator mounts. Also got a pressure safe radiator filler tank. Still just need radiator fans and I can finish setting up the engine bay and get it wired.