LittleRedSpirit

Mounted the radiator today. I just hope the fans fit when I get them. Need abut more aluminium to finish it.

Overseas spec ae71 with 1.5l 3au had k50-a engine setup. Usually still cable clutch I think, but not 100% on that detail.

Go straight to a w box. You will break t50s if you drive it hard. a W box conversion costs about 2 t50 conversions, however 2 t50s will last you 3 months behind a hard driven 4agze.

Then maybe its a CS that had the wing option and the spirit seats were a wreckers find. Maybe the guy found a spirit and took the dash, and seats. I don't think spirits ever had a boot/fuel release cable. It came in my csx but my spirit never had it.

A spirit would have the stripe up the side and the decals, otherwise its just a csx where someone has had the $66 option of the factory fitted spoiler. I once bought and wrecked out a rusty white ae71 csx with a factory optioned wing and all receipts. Might still have it somewhere. Anyhow, the seats I can't explain, I didn't think they were in anything other than spirits. Sometimes manufacturers stuff in different bits towards the end of a series. My CSX is AE71 emsfa also. Spirits were white blue and red only, with red by far being the best colour. If its one of those colours, then it may have just had the decals removed early on in its life.

Youve got some high profile people to ruckshambo.

PM the dude, you may have a better chance.

No. hahaha. :scarymovie:

It's 35 mm closer requiring a shorter bar.

Brian Crowers site lists it mate. Bit over 9mm lift.

Use a heat gun a little to warm up the moulded liner for that perfect fit. Locate the holes with nails or pins, and then remove it and use a tube of metal such as curtain rod and and block of soft wood as a substrate to punch the holes. Like a great big paper hole punch.

Ill take a photo and put it up today.

Ive got a fibreglass gtr xu1 spoiler of that type, yes it does fit quite well with minimal mods. The hole for the lock even lines up.

Thats ok, I was hunting for a spare borg housing, as my mate already cut the mounts off the diff I was hoarding for the mounts. I was in a bit of a panic. However upon talking to the fabricator about it, he can just make the upper mounts for the 4 links, and then the rest of it is easy as described above. I'm excited to get it back, and with the modified geometry I can't wait to drive on it and feel how it grips. I'm not far from ordering my ecu Justin, so we can have a day with the soldering iron soon. I'm very keen for you to teach me the finer points of wiring a car. I'm thinking that I should have the fabricator move the panhard mount down also, to do a similar geometry correction to the panhard that we are doing to the other arms.

Buy it. Looks super tidy, however its got the ugly spec aftermarket side windows cause someone was a bit stingy when they bought the car and didn't spring the extra $70 for the factory option windows.

I guess if I applied myself for a few weeks it would be done, however I feel if I did that I'd be broke pretty quick. So no choice but to tinker as I go. The diff is at the fabricators now. Its not all that hard to adapt a mk 2 corona diff. You can plate and redrill the lower 4 link mounts, add the top ones, which are way off on the corona housing. The shock mount is correct, and the panhard is close to perfect, maybe 35mm away, but I can adjust that out. Then swaybar mounts and thats that. The cool thing is Rick is shifting the 4 link bush holes down, to get the arms at the right angle. Pinion angle I can adjust with the adjustable uppers. I have the manifold back too its all sweet to go.

Getting closer on this one. I just ordered the rose jointed bits I need to fabricate the tensioner, also, I have to collect the newly acid cleaned and faced manifold and throttles today from the head shop. I'm dropping my diff in to the fabricator tomorrow arvo, then once he finishes it, I will send the whole halfcut over to have extractors made in a 4-2-1 design.

A mock up of my intake manifold based on Toyota's own cutaway detail.

I don't have an issue with people grave-digging old for sale threads. Just this week someone bumped a thread from 2009 I made and its now resulted in a sale so who cares. If the item is obviously sold and this can be learned from the content of the thread, then a grave dig is inappropriate, but while there is hope I say go for it. That is what the search function is for. Grave digs can yield the best bargains. After 3 years people can be willing to do deals. Thats how Mungi mods got his van for $200. Nobody had bothered to call for ages so the guy just wanted to shift it.

Tyre kicking wankers. Had this member message me to buy some bits, I gave him a cheap price with very cheap included shipping. He gets to the point where we exchange bank info and addresses and at that time only I find out he is the USA. Don't you ʞ©$ɟing think that I would need to find out how much international shipping is? Thats why we have a profile with a location. If you don't trust rollaclub enough to give a general indication of your location in your profile, I don't trust you enough to bother dealing with your bs. Seriously, am I meant to be a psychic and tell automatically where you live? Don't you think a minto Koyo light for $45AU shipped to New Mexico is just a little bit too cheap to be realistic? Did you think I would get to the point where you tell me where you are and I would just absorb the cost? WTF? Neg repped for stupidity/attempted con.

I agree with Mungi RA6x series struts are incorrect for the ae86/ke70 chassis. The bigger chassis is set up differently.

I had a long talk with the guy who rebuilds shock absorbers in Brisbane a few months back. Most jap shocks with adjusters in the top of the chrome shaft will lose their adjustment once they get rebuilt. Konis are made to be rebuilt and retain adjustment, and I think TRDs etc where you have the clicker on the back of the lower body are able to rebuilt and retain adjustment also. I have seen rebuilt tokico illumias before and they had the adjuster removed as part of the rebuild process.

And don't have the coilovers made until yopu have selected your dampers as the strut tube needs to be lengthened in relationship with the shock body and travel it permits.

Rotor machining cost about $30 a side at the most, and there are some people who can travel around and do it mobile also. You must have asked someone to do it who doesnt have the machinery in house as for $150 then you have to assume they are taking it somewhere and paying to have it done and mark it up. It should usually be about $20 a rotor if you take them to the place to be done. I guess youre learning about buying and selling parts too. There are a few gripes I have with this as well. People when selling seem to try and standardise prices as if they are new parts, when secondhand bits should be priced purely on condition. For example, struts are worthless if the stub axles are worn or corroded, as there can never be any bearings that will work or last properly fitted to them. Most people buy them sight unseen over the net and hope for the best. In my experience the kids that sell bits to you on car forums almost always lie to you, or they lie by omission. EG "you didn't tell em they were bent" answer "you didn't ask". That type of shit. People will knowingly sell you shit you don't need if they want to sell it. Even good mates will try it on if they think you have more cash than them and they want it. I had someone bring something round, tell me that he thought it would fit my car (even though it was completely unnecessary) and insist for over an hour that I pay him for it. Needless to say this person isn't a friend any more. You can beat this racket by only dealing with certain people who are honest, looking at things before you buy them, and negotiating down the price of poor quality parts. If they would prefer to sell it for a million bucks aven if its rooted, then just put it down as youve learned something about them and move on. If I were you Id sell the ae86 gear and try to recoup what you paid for them, then Id buy xt130 gear for $50 from a wrecker, and spend the extra $200 towards the otomoto coilover kit to complete the work. Then its about $200 more and you have coilovers. You can use the xt brakes initially as even the single pot ones are a big upgrade from ae86, bigger diameter and pad area.

The fastest cars around the Nurburgring are the larger road going supercars with streetable suspension. They can munch all the ripple strips. The f1 cars cannot. You need to build suspension for the condition that it will be used in.