LittleRedSpirit

The more serious the cage, the more fun the monkey bars are.

Not really. Fiddly id say but not hard. Once you get your head around how the bending tool works its pretty easy to do. Just have to remember to put the flare nuts on before you flare it. Haha.

The diffs arent marked the body is on the build plate, if your lucky. A car that has a borgy has no stamp on the plate usually. Anyhow, look for the Hilux diff with the narrowest track and make that fit so its not too wide for your chassis. RN25 from memory.

WMMH, a good bargain. Had a few awesome ones lately. Just bought my business an Altendorf panel saw. That was a great deal. Just got a Stanton turntable, st150- the best one- for $260. Bargain and a half. Also picked up a new everlast speed bag with the wall mount and all for $37. Having a great time with this shit.

They are steel with Cad plating like all toyota ones are before mother time browns them off. They came from IFS at rocklea. Industrial fittings sales. I bought the bender from Glenfords, a neat little urwin one. Flare nuts are the dearest bit, a couple of bucks each. The 6 metre bit of tube was only $13.

You can join a series if your car fits the rules of one, however unless its built for a class it may not be as competitive as you might like. You can join a sporting car club, and this opens up a lot of options for khana days, hillclimbs, track days, rally etc and is a good way to meet other rabid car people and get more ideas. I believe rollaclub members around Brisbane are often members of the NDSCC for example. http://www.ndscc.asn.au/ You can go to Willowbank and drag race too. Its not a hard thing to get into, as I understand it, you can race almost any car in a handicapped competition. If you want to do rallying, this takes a more concerted effort to develop a good gravel car. Perhaps not for the casual dabbler.

Yes I too have called them and asked, Hello, do you have any rwd toyotas on your lot? Response: " Oh I dunno man, there might be some down there, probably not." Plus I asked how much for something to gauge prices and they seemed expensive. Nothing beats wacol wreckers except they struggle to find toyotas now.

Yes I'm rejoicing in how tidy it looks now. Except I still have to pull the axles out to fit the baffles into the housing when I find some. I'm sure I could run it without, but I just like hard corners too much and that's what this car is designed for. I'm sure it will be as grotty as any other rear end after a year under a car on the street. ;)

Good find, I shall investigate. I did a lot of work on the diff today. I made the new hard lines for it and flared and fitted them. I'm happy with how the longer line is under the panhatd mount for protection. I also made a remote breather kit for it, with a 90 degree fitting, two spare barbs and the stock fitting. Just needs a longer bit of hose. Did a little bit of blacksmithing to get the top 4 link mounts perfect aswell. I went through all my old bits and found enough washers and bolts for the panhard and shocky mounts aswell. I asked the diff shop about it, and apparently the diff isnt baffled, so I need to source a pair of f series baffles. The part number is 42108 30010. If your looking for other genuine parts and prices could you check that please Jake? Otherwise I have to rape them from an f series at the wreckers that someone can most likely use.

Thats why my figures are high, I keep spreadsheets.

Thanks for having a look. Ive been chasing a guy from toymods for one but he keeps never getting it done. Might have to pay 300 ish for a genuine assembly. Most likely fab something if I had to do that I guess.

WGMG, showing up at court an hour and 15 from home to find its just yet another mention. GRRRRRRR. Passive aggressive life wasting prosecutors.

If its a 99 to 06 Celica I'd like the thermofans from it for mine.

You want to buy genuine Toyota flywheel bolts designed for that application. Bolt shop bolts would be not an ideal fix. Pressure plate bolts maybe but not flywheel bolts.

Yeah or they did the smart thing and bought an ae71, and an ae93 sx and didnt have to buy much individually. There is a propensity for young car builders to be stingy which leads to them not being willing or possible able to make a bulk purchase that will make things easier. People complain about buying everything individually but they don't explore the other options. For example, if you need ra40 struts and you can get a whole ra40 for cheap from somewhere, buy it, keep what you want, sell the rest. It takes time to do but it makes building your car much more affordable and you meet more car people along the way who can broaden your network of people that can help you find stuff.

Celica rad has side tanks for reduced height, a drain in the bottom corner and a breather in the top corner, also there is one attachment for the overflow. I think I might even pipe the overflow off the top bleed thread with a banjo bolt as its the highest point and it will help air escape.

I spent about 15-16 k on mine, and nobody wants to give me any good money for it. And thats not counting development, but instead just the actual value that sits in the car today in parts.

Just calculated the speeds in each gear for this car. 6500 rpm limit 55 in 1st 96 in 2nd 143 in 3rd 182 in 4th 212 in 5th Should tear balls. If you push revs to 6800 58 100 149 191 221 At cruising revs 2800 23 41 62 78 91 I like how they all are about a particular speed limit, should be easy to cruise around in and stay under the limit.

On another note, the gears I used were the 3.9 gears from the old corona diff. They were in good condition and I prefer the ratio with the torquey motor, at least on paper. People told me that I would need a crown wheel spacer up to 3mm, but you can adjust the pinion displacement out by just using a slightly slimmer bearing on one side of the carrier and winding it over on the threads. There is plenty of adjustment. Perhaps with a different ratio, the pinion is slimmer and you may need to use a spacer, but they informed me that was not required. The bearings from the old diff were remarkable, just dead smooth races, but the cylinders themselves were showing some signs of wear, one even had pitting in the middle of it, I don't know from what, perhaps lubrication issues as they aged. There's nothing like the old Japanese stuff when it comes to bearings I think,

Need ideas for brakes, I might just try to find a vented rotor that fits suits a Wilwood 2 piston caliper with a handbrake. Then make a bracket.

Diff owes me $1710 and about 5 hours of my time.

I have a spreadsheet Ive been keeping. Let me revise it and Ill let you know.

Surprisingly, today yielded a lot of awesome if expensive progress. Diff lapping rang me. Diff all done. Specs are... 3.9:1 Lexus torsen LSD. Type 2 (the type with parallel shafts along the pinion, not accross. The stronger type.) F series mk 2 corona diff with ae86 mounts fitted. New jap oil seals. New pinion and carrier bearings. Solid pinion spacer conversion. Comes with penrite limslip 140 and penrite LSD addittive. Housing was measured and straightened at the diff shop after it was welded. Has ke70 swaybar mounts on it. So I collected it, went by bunnings. Bought etch primer and two cans of hammer tone gunmetal grey. Took it all back to the shop and soda blasted the housing. I then prepsolled it and did the paint. Came up amazingly well. e