LittleRedSpirit

Fairly certain that one ECU is enough, provided there isn't a second motor somewhere we haven't noticed. Haltech would be better for this application than the 4agze ecu. Just use whatever map sensor the haltech uses. It needs to be a 3 bar most likely so it will work properly with boost.

I just got a different speed sensor from the wreckers, it fits just like the Toyota one but it is quite different, I assume it has more pulse per rev than the 4 pulse Toyota one, so I will pop the top off it and try to mod it to a 1 pulse type and if that works, I should have flawless speedo data.

Cool, I just like the table the adaptronic gives you as it give me the instantaneous instances of TPS, and rpm, temp, all that so I can best judge which sectors to tune. I assume the LM2 just logs the afrs, but how does it relate that to the ecu data at that instant?

Why is the LM2 better you think? I really just want to datalog each day and make changes at night, I don't want to use a readout or anything like that because I have it on good authority they aren't that useful as a tuning tool. It seems pretty straight forward to do it through data acquisition. Is the LM2 more accurate? Didn't go to the drags, I couldn't >| find anyone who was up to go race...

You are wasting a lot of money by buying a clutch over from the states. Postage would be killer no matter how good the exchange is right now, fact is if you wanted to blow $350 on TTT stuff, theres a bunch of stuff you would have more use for than a puck clutch with a 4ac. Just buy an OEM Japanese made clutch kit, Exedy, whatever, it wont matter with 57KW at the flywheel. You don't have the power to slide on bitumen properly, or the diff, so why do you need a clutch that can do it in theory if the rest of the car cannot. So just stick with what you need. Itd be like painting a racing stripe on a tortoise. Look into some suspension bits, you will enjoy the benefits of them everytime you drive the car, unlike the clutch, that will shit you to tears once you realise that you wont be drifting anyhow but are stuck with a difficult clutch to drive.

There will be a big fat white wire coming from the stock loom to the battery positive, I think this supplies the key and dash with power which in turn goes to the 12v trigger of the starter when you key it. Its often brittle and in poor condition in old ke70 looms, so try cutting a bit off the end if its brittle or damaged and pull it up a bit, crimp on a new lug and bolt it on the battery with everything else. There's 3 wires in a plastic connector there in a 70/71 loom. Its often completely rooted. I think from memory: green, yellow and the big white one. You can't really easily get a plug and pins to replace it but you can easily just cut off the ends and crimp on new lugs, bolt it to the positive terminal and see if that helps. I've just had to do this with my loom as I have been having similar starting issues. My dash lights were shit and blinking sometimes before I did this, but now its even luminescence and good cranking when it starts. Good luck. Also, is your alternator charging properly? Condition of the cable from alternator to battery?

Cheers again for the info guys. Drags tonight. Bring your cars! I'm mad keen to see how the 4.5s go. Might be able to go a bit quicker. Just rang QLD transport, I now have all 12 points back! Wooooooot! Happy days. I've had that hanging over me since February 2008! I had a bad patch when I had to commute to Toowoomba to work, and I had gotten 4 small fines in a month period. No more than 115 but still they robbed me of my remaining points. Its nice to be over that now! I can stop fretting about driving for a bit! :laff: :laff: :laff:

Sounds like a patchy plan. If it were me Id sell the s13 suspension and get ae86 gear for the front end, ditch the cut springs, the t18 diff is nice but not nice behind a ca18. Its as expensive as any diff to fix... Got any pics of the car? If you ask me the price of a bare shell revolves directly around 1 thing. Ease of restoration. If it were just a straight car that you can wheel into a body shop and paint, and not worry about rust or dents then its worth top dollar. If it needs rust repaired in numerous places, has been paddocked and is all beat up underneath, has had badly executed repairs or modifications its not really worth much at all. Id say top dollar for a nice, clean rolling example that you can paint and use, maybe $1000. If its going to require work then scrap value I guess. Its up to you to decide how far along the range it is. Steer clear of cars that have rust in the sills or anywhere underneath. Mechanics will not put them on a hoist as they will colllapse and fall on them, so it is essentially useless. Steer clear of a car that has rust in the roof, around the screens, or in the pillars. You could expect a bit under the boot lid around the seal, or in the lower rear 1/4 panels, this is easier to fix than structural members, which I think need to be fixed at a shop and will cost a lot more than the $1000 a straight and rust free shell should cost.

Well at least its not too hard to get under there, and rotate it and see if it fixes it.

The guy who drops off the parcel post in your area must be ripped by now!

We can tell you stuff all day but until you download their control apps and their manuals and read them you wont be able to make an actual informed decision, theres no substitute for reading and learning for you at this point. A/M ecu use isn't for everyone, if your not willing to read and learn, you will never get to the right answer when you have to configure or repair something. You have to watch out as well as some ECU companies require you to actually send them the ecu so it can be configured for a particular application, which can be costly and a pain in the arse.

Who can guess this one... "Mad MC skills leave me struck, and I roll with my kitties cause I'm 'ard as f@$k." Natural Born Killers Once upon a time, a woman was picking up firewood. She came upon a poisonous snake frozen in the snow. She took the snake home and nursed it back to health. One day the snake bit her on the cheek. As she lay dying, she asked the snake, "Why have you done this to me?" And the snake answered, "Look, bitch, you knew I was a snake." You'll never understand, Wayne. You and me, we're not even the same species. I used to be you, then I evolved. From where you're standing, you're a man. From where I'm standing, you're an ape. You're not even an ape. You're a media person. Media's like the weather, only it's man-made weather. Murder? It's pure. You're the one made it impure. You're buying and selling fear. You say "why?" I say "why bother?" It's just murder. All God's creatures do it. You look in the forests and you see species killing other species, our species killing all species including the forests, and we just call it industry, not murder.

From Bleak House by Charles Dickens; "The father of this pleasant grandfather, of the neighbourhood of Mount Pleasant, was a horny-skinned, two-legged, money-getting species of spider who spun webs to catch unwary flies and retired into holes until they were entrapped. The name of this old pagan's god was Compound Interest. "

XF Falcon. Auto. Big and White. Very flat riding car. Could put a maccas drink next to the shifter and just drive around with it sitting there. Flatmates girlfriend took down a power pole with it trying to dodge, of all things, a possum. Put me in hospital for 2 weeks with a cut throat from the windscreen. Didnt chip a tooth but. Car was a write off and the scum sucking tow truck drivers took the speakers out of it. Tow truck drivers=scum of the earth. Kinda like lawyers but with no teeth, education or judges to answer to. Took the hit like no rolla could... Was only doing about 55kph but the pole still sunk back far enough to hit the block and drive it into the firewall.

Now wired up an o2 sensor. Its just a 1 wire, the next step would be securing a wideband sensor to tune with, then I can switch back to the narrow band and it will take car of itself after that.

So you tested the pump but how did you do the wiring in tank? Did you test your pump and wiring all together, or was the pump just tested loosely then fitted after. Did you ground it aswell as give it power, is the ground clean and with solid contact? If you did it under the body you may need to sand back or brush back the deadener. How is it wired, did you use the pinout on the ecu to trigger a relay?

Adaptronic are committed to using sensors that come in the motor, I know Haltech often require their own hardware along with the ecu, eg cas.

So now Ive been to jaycar, I have shielded cable for the o2 sensor and I also have the pins to fix the wiring where the crimps are coming undone. Jaycar now sells 2, 3, 4, and 6 pin waterproof connectors for cars, like the round rubber sealed ones that most Map sensors use. I got a 3 pin one for the MVSS. I also have the resistor to use to hopefully make the MVSS work appropriately.

Adaptronic e 420 c can do your boost control aswell.

Got fuel now. lol. Heres some pics, I made this little trim to guide air into the radiator.

Wish I saw this yesterday, I just polished my wheels.

Awesome Trev. Thats exactly the kind of real world experience I was hoping to be guided by. I moved the MVSS ground wire, same issues. Will try a different power source next, but then Ill swap out the wire and see if that helps. Failing that the resistor mod can be done.

Ok speed sensor is shit again, no idea whats going on there, it worked fine a day ago. I just emailed Andy Wyatt from adaptronic asking for a few bits and pieces and wires so I can work on the loom a bit, and asked about the MVSS connection and the use of a shielded wire in that application. Probably going to splurge on a wideband o2 sensor soon, I fighure its a bit cheaper than dyno time again and again whenever I change something, whcih is real often lately. I can't decide between a tech edge or innovate kit. Leaning towards innovate but Id like to hear some opinions from people who have used wideband lamda gear before. I asked the bloke on the dyno last time and he said the best he has used is a motec kit and that cost over 2 grand. don't think I can find that kind of money.

Heres how it looks now. Much better, cleaner lines on this front end.