LittleRedSpirit

Looks terrific but I think you need to practice your glassing and get some compound curves into the body. Should go like stink on poop.

Cheers mate. I took a long drive in the country today, did about 400 k's. Sadly I went for a short drive after I got home and the diff started to get loud. Knowing what I know about failed diffs, its a bearing problem and will be fixed asap with no further use of the car till its done. The lucky thing is I have another diff lying around that is supposed to be a rebuilt one, I just don't know the ratio. As the pain men say, theres only one way to find out. Ill probably fit it tomorrow then pull the centre out of the noisy bitch and send it to the shop, to be rebuilt with my spare 4.5:1 cw&p and bearing set. I knew I bought them for a reason. The Ill probably sell the 4.3s or fit them to the spare diff if the ratio sucks when I swap it over.

Stock Brakes, shitty. AE86 Stock Brakes, better than stock ke70, still kinda shitty unless you freshen them up. Not a big upgrade, still single piston and thin unvented rotors. JDM AE86 stock brakes, better than the above due to venting but otherwise the same. FC RX7 - Work well, can get to fit under 14s, expect to go swapping master cylinders to make it function. Your brakes will stick ouy past the mounting face on the rim, and this will affect the fitment of wheels since you will require spoke clearance, no mk3 ssr or the like will fit. You may need to redrill and machine rotors to fit these too. Its a bit of a pain when rotors need replacing. TTT Wilwood - 11 inch rotor, fits under 15s, ultra light weight calipers, awesome rotors that are also lightweight. Bolt on kit, no swapping out the master cylinder. Awesome performance mod. Racebrakes - Same as above but a bigger rotor (the TTT kit is technically a racebrakes kit anyhow, just the smaller one). Group 4 Fabrications - Have 13 and 15 inch rotor packages available with AP calipers. Pretty exxy, close to $2000 pounds sterling. Unsure of quality or hydraulic implications due to having never used them. K sport kits - made of play dough and shiny bottle tops. Not up for stopping a tricycle, let alone a car. Greddy 6 piston kit - Looks awesome, never tried it.

Cooling system is a seperate thing, your problem probably relates to air, fuel, or both. If its lean sounding, it will crackle and pop a bit, sound a bit harsher and have more of a bark to it, rich sounds a bit sweeter, with almost a faint gurle to it. Smell is a good indicator, lean smells like a clean chemical reaction has taken place, rich smells fruity and fuelly. Like when a car first starts up and is enriched, you have that fuelly exhaust smell. Again hard to teach on the webs. The reason I ask, is if you have a straight up vaccuum leak it wont be rich. Leads me to believe you have a fuel related issue, or a sensor giving bad info leading to an extra input of fuel. Did you keep the diagnostic plug when you wired the car?

Hmmm. Damaged vac lines, faulty idle control, misreading sensor, be it map or tps. Does it sound rich or lean as it hunts up in the revs? If its lean sounding most likely a vac leak. Did you make major dynamic changes to the motor, IE more compression, camshaft duration increase? What ecu?

My channel is called MJBOGAN. Have a look if you want, mostly just drag vids of my car, and a few mates.

Might need to heat the ring and cool the threaded tube, then try again.

I don't suppose you actually have a big C spanner, the tool designed for the job? You can borrow mine if need be. If you feel its just stuck and not cross threaded or damaged so as it will be unusable, I would go ahead and fit them then use the car to anchor them, then do it on the car. Just like how an axle is easier to get out of a diff while the housing is still in the car. use the car to hold it in place while you crank on it.

Add a price please, nice bike.

Ive been having an issue with a shoddy bulb holder causing lots of bulbs to fail. Inspect all the contacts in the system, test the resistance of the wires. you may find it easy to swap out the rear light harness and see if it is the cause of some of the issues. Although with the parkers not working it may well be a fuse or some damaged wires under the dash or in the kick panels.

SO youve been to Toowoomba then.

Well I'm now thinking I might rub back and paint the rest. Then I think I will go ahead and get a new pin stripe done much like the old one. I like it a lot.

Now have white panels all fitted up and aligned, but still a brown bonnet, it looks kinda cool actually.

Yeah it looks great in the photos but I must confess there is probably only about 80% prep done. Lets face it if I made it perfect it would be out of place on the car. There's a slightly detectable scratch here and there in the primer. Looks good enough for a white finish I guess, and it will look better after a polish. :rolls:

Pics.

Gaurds are now white and shiny, once the paint is nice and hard I will finish the car and go for a drive all pretty. Trumpets may be a week or 2 yet so will do the other work once the bits come.

Car is looking good. And coming along fast!

Ok, So now the door sits neatly. Also, I have finished all my prep and undercoating of the gaurds, beaver panel, and vent panel. They just need a light rub back by hand and then some peak White. Probably 3 coats, then a buff and maybe another coat.

I think its a bad idea, the stock airbox has a better attempt at cold air induction (if the plastic snorkels are still present) than a pod will ever give you. Your stock 4k will be getting enough air provided it has a clean filter element. If the 4k is modified you should be looking at upgrading the carb anyhow. Putting a pod there will suck a lot more hot air and negate any performance gain from the extra flow, as hot air is less dense and carries less oxygen, which means less pop when things go bang inside the motor. Perhaps if you locate the pod somewhere inside its own enclosure, and give it a supply of cold air, it will be able to get enough cold air to not be worse than before. I think the old, stick a pod on it logic has been disproved enough times by now.

Hey thanks alot, I have to say your rally car is proving to be some heady inspiration. My car is still all nice under the panels from when I bare metal repainted it while doing the conversion. I got a new adaptronic loom in the mail today, I will raid some wires from it to connect my o2 sensor to get a cleaner idle, and low load economy. About time I did that. I'm even fixing the door alignment! About time I know, I've nearly wrecked the door seal.

I got keen and started painting my front end today. I rubbed a gaurd and the vent panel back to bare metal and got them to the undercoat stage. Finally. I'm planning on removing the whole inlet and cleaning and reconfiguring it with the new trumpets, and removing all the engine lacquer that remains from when I purchased the engine. Then I will refinish the top cover and fit the new exhaust manifold heat shield I have designed and had folded up as a prototype.

Finally they took photos of my car. Finally.

Sorry, I forgot to call. Doh. Wasn't a good night for spectators anyhow, or drivers, with the oil down and all that. Yeah Jons car was in need of some further chassis tuning to make it either hook up or spin smoother. It was tramping and bouncing a lot eh. I think it made him a bit shy of the throttle off the line.