LittleRedSpirit

Diff has a new left side wheel bearing now. Also, car is for sale so hit me up if your interested. $10k minus wheels n logger. If you wanted it cheaper I can take suspension fruit out n work out a deal.

Got a speco electric oil pressure gauge yesterday for this car. I've also taken the oil filter adapter that goes through the cooler warmer to hold it on to Prime engineering and they are adding some metal with the welder, and the re machining the thread in the right place so I can just use that part and not waste another morning at the wreckers taking oil filters off grotty old motors.

Youll learn to love a lumpy daily.

Is that a steel rear bumper? Was the glass not durable enough for rally? Or is it just painted silver?

Hahaha. Fire the hoe.

The panelvan cluster has a curved face whereas the sedan n wagon cluster has a flat one. So I'm sure you could fab something up but it would require the ability to thermoform the polycarbonate to get the curved face correct if you wanted to make a clear screen for a van.

Yeah thanks Jake, Id appreciate it if you could ask, I can't see how it would cause a problem having now done it, the flange plate for the pipe that comes from higher up on the motor actually had a thread tapped into the hole aswell as the studs, so deleting it is even simpler than making a cover plate ala 20v rwd setup. Silly me went and made a plate from 1/4 inch aluminium plate then noticed that it wasnt required, haha. So the other connection to the cooler warmer is just a threaded barb the next size up from the upper one. Luckily I had the right tapered brass barbs lying around in the shed so I fitted them up. Next was removing the cooler warmer itself, which was as simple as one 10mm nut and stud, and the 30mm centre spigot that holds it in. I guess its really the same as the 5s that went before it, and most people remove those cooler warmers on them without issue, so hopefully its all good. I also made a more accurate template for my starter spacer plate and delivered it to PRP sheet metal for plasma cutting. While I was there I delivered the phenolic sheet and an itb gasket so that they can make me as many of them as the sheet allows (which will work out to 20, perfectly enough). I bolted up the box and was able to reach into the starter hole to get a measurement of how far to leave the spigot bearing sticking out (its the double row style). I came up with exactly 12mm, so with a margin of safety I left it hanging out 9.5mm so it wont bind up on the nose of the input shaft. I also noticed that one time when I knocked over the new motor I snapped the plug off the vvti switch, so Ive ordered a new one ($137 ouch). Needs to be done, oh well. Serves me right for careless reversing. So I cleaned all the flywheel bolts and the holes they go into, then noticed my loctite was missing. At this point I gave up for the day and went home, via the bolt shop to get some perfect bolts for my engine mounts. Of course I found my loctite at home in my home toolkit, haha. So tomorrow, I will go past the wreckers and try to find a shorter oil filter spigot so I don't need to modify the stock one and I can fit an oil filter safely. It sits about 1.5 inches higher up out of harms way now that the cooler warmer block is removed. It tidies up the look of the engine a lot on the exhaust side now without all the pipes and junk hanging off it. I removed any stray fwd related accessories, bolts and hoses and have it back pretty close to a bare bones rwd build now. The heater hoses work out really neat, and really you have a choice about 2 sets of connections with the way the cooler warmer ports work. I'm going to use the standard connections with one shortened and one changed from a nipple to a banjo bolt feed. Keep it all behind the head. So finally when I get in tomorrow I can bolt up and torque the flywheel and clutch, fit the box, and bolt it up ready and waiting for installation. I found a couple of slaves that worked floating around the shed too and I also got a trick 90 degree fitting for the clutch line from some shit old kia at the wreckers last time I was there.

Hopefully after today, I have the motor n box together and they wont need to come apart again, and the thing can be glad wrapped and put aside for later fitment when the shell gets finished.

Did some more on this now. I took the new motor to work today and modified it for rwd. I cut away the alloy for the starter. I also Modified the heater hose that protrudes backwards (shortened it to miss the firewall. I drilled and tapped the m12 hole in the rear of the motor that was just drilled and not tapped. I also modified the left engine mount to clear the dipstick, and rebent the dipstick tube into a more rwd friendly shape. I collected the gearbox from diff lapping and cleaned the outside of it a bit, then I refitted the bellhousing, torqued the bolts to 35NM and then put it aside. Tomorrow I can bolt the motor and box together and setup the flywheel and clutch system that Ive created, and do some final testing and checking of the clutch forks operation. Once I have motor and box united, Ill fiddle with the accessories till its ready to drop into the chassis and Ill have to put it aside till my coil overs come back and I can get it rolling and do some more work on it. I'm also wondering if I can easily delete the factory oil warmer/cooler arrangement.

Brisbane motor importers. It was not listed at $800 but I'm a good negotiator, and I was buying an ae86 halfcut at the same time, so had a fair bit of buying power.

A front wheel drive halfcut has no place in a rwd conversion. All you need is a motor with accessories, try to get one with clutch, flywheel, manifolds and an alternator. The fwd starter, airbox, mounts, gearbox, etc is all dead to you. As is anything in the body. Wheres that meme, the one about plans 4age conversion - buys ae101 halfcut? haha. You basically need next to nothing from the fwd halfcut. Ive been able to buy a 20v and accessories from an importer before and its cost as little as $800. Just deal with a shop that will give you a compression test. If a 20v has had an oil change, then it would have minimal sludge in the head. A good importer will let you pop a top cover off and have a look at whats in there.

Yeah its a brand created to embody all the problems with 1. Gen Y. 2. Car people. We should do a knockoff brand thats called: "Dillest" or "Chillest" and make slogans up like, "You may not know cars, but you know how Hectic you are". Or, : "Caution - Car frequently parking" Or we can do official club memebership to the HPCOA, the hard parking club of Australia.

This is where driver training can fill the gap.

Somebody post a vin diesel meme stat.

AE86 or AE71 speedo cable will work. You might need to order the correct nylon speedo drive gears so it reads correctly. Depends on your final drive ratio too of course.

The sharp edges around alloy crankcases. Ouch!

Had a little holiday to Caloundra, and managed some nice images of the bushfires. What a sunset. I was expecting some Pterodactyls to fly over.

Medical system. Hospitals treat you like a selfish ʇ~~ɔ unless you have life threatening injuries. So you decide to pay so you can take control of the situation. You sell something youd rather have kept for a cheap price, hurriedly so you can meet the first possible booking and pay for the surgery. Then you get a call 4 hours after parting with a big stack of hard earned cash saying a made up excuse about how the theatre isn't magically available any more so they need to reschedule 2 weeks later. Pain in the arse when you already know the doctor is on holidays and the weather is so good he might just stay another week in Noosa. And of course they don't care about their clients, this delay has meant now that the surgery falls right in the middle of a work project, and derails my entire life. Not to mention you cannot get any money back from medicare until the surgery is complete, so I'm expected to be out of pocket for a a stack of money for whatever indefinate period it takes to get the doctor to show up to the surgery. Welcome to the real world, doctors. Where time is money, promises matter and people expect you to keep your word. What a change from Doctor land where you can sustain 13 mortgages at once and send your kids to 30k a year private schools. Where dates and times are someone elses problems and money rains from the pockets of all those people you meet. ʇ~~ɔs.

T>K in stock form. K has a special place in our hearts though. What it loses in power and technology, it gains in reliability.

Insulated the surge tank with some medium density self adhesive sheet from Clark rubber. Should help deflect any debris and hopefully stop the swirl pot from absorbing any radiant heat. Also becomes less noticeable. I also did a bit of cleaning up on the edges of the fuel pump bracket and installed a splined stud for it so its easy to fit the pump with one tool. I rubber lined the base of it. My plan is to make a rubber lined plate to mount it all to from aluminium and fit it as a unit with pump and surge tank all together. Hopefully the multiple layers of rubber mounting keep the fuel pumps quiet.

It will be much the same, that said, I don't mind making small modifications. Cheers. :thumbsup:

Smashed the F diff open today. Literally, haha. I fitted the baffles which just absolutely fit like a glove as per factory, even though the diff wasn't equipped with them originally. Thanks to Sam Q for supplying those. What a great resolution. :clover: It all went back together nicely. Sealed with Toyota black sealant. :paw: Very happy. :yes: Now the only issue will be handbrake cables, I hope, being drums, its as simple as using the ke70 cables. I also met Chris and Tony Scott today. It was good to finally put a face to a name after previous conversations I've had with Chris on the phone, and of course to meet the 2 guys responsible for what I think is the most epic car on Rollaclub, with the results to back it up. :drinks: