LittleRedSpirit

BRD Racing for the T motor bits. http://www.brdracing.com/

Old Holden Parts Paul just emailed me a photo. Check out the robot he made from car bits.

The last thing you want is cheap rim widening. To end up with a wheel as high quality as an original jap 3 piece wheel you would need to have a high quality outer made, machine off the old outers, weld on the new, Machine and roll them true, refinish centres, polish the outers, new bolts, then there's the assembly time. A high quality outer can cost up to $200 each for a 15 inch wheel. To do it right you need to spend $350+ per wheel. If you pay any less than that you are going to be getting something less than you'd want to drive on. A lot o0f places silicon inners and outers together, but this is not the best idea, especially if your wheels were welded originally. You need to make sure the outers are the correct grade of aluminium, some are too rigid and they are impossible to polish right and they will fracture rather than bend when contacted harshly.

Do a proper scan of the Corolla ones so it becomes useful info for when you buy a car. Holden ones would be awesome, and much more valuable then the Toyota ones. Get that stuff and ebay it!

They probably just scrapped em mate, that's an easy $80 for a moron junkie. Sadly. :scarymovie:

Rians surge tank is under the floor, so he should be fine.

More good points above. On the issue of parting out, as a frequent helper of others with their conversions, there's nothing worse than when you help someone build a car, and they get it so close to being ready; it just needs maybe another grand spent to finish it off right, and they get the first signs of life out of it and sell it. Thus undermining and undervaluing all the hours others have helped them. Fair enough if you pranged it, it can't be helped, shit happens, but if you get someone's help to improve something a whole lot then sell it on a whim you just suck the life out of everything to do with it, including the person who helped you.

If some things are borderline they may cover their asses by just not offering a certain approval code. If there is good justification for not needing one, I.E. if your diff is a jdm ae86 or t18 unit that bolts in with no mods it wont need approval. With 4ages, you can just go change the engine number from a 4ac number, but if that is your excuse when you kill someone drifting in your 2x the stock power corolla with stock brakes then it wont stand up in court potentially. Cost me around $200 to have a plate with the three codes I needed fitted. I think I'm mod plated for seats, engine, and brakes, but Ill have to check.

I'm not planning on organising anything. I'm sure if you got in touch with NPC in Brisbane they could make the same thing for you.

Retro is big right now, Id like to see the sega looking rc logo!

Research for me is key. I have been doing the 2az project in no sensible fashion with regards to the above guidelines. I purchased the motor 3 or more years ago, and have been keeping a spreadsheet so in hindsight I can account for every dollar spent on it. For this build, with no known work to go on, I had to work things out. There are I guess different levels of complexity that need to be considered when planning which engine to use. Level 1 conversions would be ones that use mainly stock parts. I'm talking 16 v 4age into ae71-86 as a level 1. Stock mounts, exhaust, inlet, management. You just have to connect it up correctly to make it happen, and use parts that arent trashed to begin with. Level 2 would be perhaps a 20v into an ae86-71. Where you have the opportunity to do some engineering (cooling bits, tune and management). You begin to see more variety in the finished results here, as peoples choices of components effect the outcome. Level 3 would be maybe looking at something that requires mounts and crossmember fabrication to make it work, or extensive research of combinations of parts to construct solutions. Frequently in this business you can find there is already something in production that does exactly what you need it to, but sometimes its not easy to find or discover and it ends up being easier to just make it and be done with it. Level 4 would be something that requires total re-orientation, mounts, transmission adaptation, be it off the shelf or home made. Where you need to fabricate your manifolds from scratch, design a full exhaust, mounts, cross members and re-engineer most external systems on the engine to make it fit. This is where I have found myself with the 2az build and its been exactly what I was wanting from a project. To some its surely retarded to invest this much in this way but I have a vision based on nothing more than an ideal version of a Corolla in my eyes and I want to make it real. To gel the old soul of a 30 year old chassis seamlessly with some modern exotic materials and some excellent homespun bespoke engineering. To make something that is in its entirety a manifestation of all your own ideas and research. So you need to consider exactly what you want from the project. Is it a means to an end to get a little thrash beast on the road fast, or is it an opportunity to get involved technically in something that is a reflection of your own thinking? How far along the scale are you from one extreme to another? What are your goals? Is time important, or is spending no money the overriding decision definer? Rookie mistakes: 1. Buying parts before you even know what you want or need. Throwing money around when what you need to spend is time. 2. Buying cars and parts for 'market' prices regardless of condition. 3. Buying a shit rusty car to rebuild that you will never be psyched to drive. Find the right chassis it might take some time. 4. Finishing it off too quickly, thus leaving a dozen small annoying issues that you may never fix. 5. Lending tools. 6. Taking on too advanced a project without the ability, just to compete with what your mates are doing.

Colour coded! Must be a factory option. :wootjump:

Go to plumbing shops and get some of the awesome anti seize shit that they use on galvanised pipes. Had some when I wrecked the ra40 and a rusty ae86 halfcut a few years back and it was just incredible. Cost about $40 though, but what at price your knuckles and time?

Not much to report this week. However, I have been back to Prime Engineering @ Darra and collected the modified oil filter spigot. I couldn't find an oil filter spigot that suited my needs so I had the engineers @ Prime weld up to build the existing one, then cut it off and re tap it the right length. Its basically a shorter version of the previous spigot that also held on the oil cooler/warmer system. Now my oil filter can still be put in the convenient stock location, but its about an inch and a half from hanging out of the stone tray, instead of just poking through. Hopefully this means it wont be damaged by day to day driving. Have purchased a new vvti switch from Toyota. Cost me $126. Not too bad, I think they gave me some sort of trade price. Tested the thermostat, and it was sluggish for my liking. Debating whether to use a cooler 72 or 76 degree Celsius thermostat instead. However the cooling system should work totally stock so I don't know if its worth it. Running out of things to do on the mechanical side for now. I've got to get this body rolling. I'm still waiting for Rick Sendall to finish off my coilovers, and then once that's done I can put the shell together and send it over to him for the headers and full exhaust to be made. Rick has just purchased a muffler shop in Browns Plains now so hes been a bit busy with that, however he's catching up now so I pray that sometime next week I can get the coilovers and bush adapters for my diff back so I can fit them up. Ive also got my mounts in at PRP Sheet metal to be powder coated a dark bluish Grey colour. Could have collected those on Friday but I forgot. He will also hopefully have my 8mm starter plate finished as well. I still will need to scribe it in to fit neat and close off the starter recess. Still to buy - EFI Fuel Lines Fuel pump High pressure. Adaptronic ECU Have headers made and coated. Exhaust. ADM Grill for chassis. More sheet alloy for fabrications so I can mount the surge tank to a plate with the pumps and filter for ease of install/removal as a unit. Still need a stock oil pan so I can move the drain bung to the lowest point. Getting ever more excited for this build. Wondering what the weight will be when done. If I can assume the engine is 12kg lighter with accessories than a 4age, less also some extra weight as I plan to reduce the size and complexity of the exhaust manifold, that probably weighs no more than the longer mild steel headers I plan to use. The gearbox will take up the difference in engine weights, but centralise the weight. I also plan on placing the battery in the back seat area for greater mass centralisation. Taking into account the glass bonnet and hatch, I could be below 900 kgs for the wet rolling chassis I hope. Might be able to squeeze in a cage and have it about the same weight as a stock car all told. F Diff adds a fair bit of weight, Id estimate 15-20 kg there, but its in the rear and low to the ground, however unsprung. As much as I wanted it to drive like an original ae86, it may well be a bit different thanks to the extra weight over the middle and rear of the car. Do any of my readers own motor sport scales?

Yes exactly. HP Per litre of capacity, its not a great motor in stock form. However HP per kg of engine its hard to top.

Saying things like gl or dx describes cars sold in the market wherever you are. Different cars have different names in different markets. For example, in Australia we have cs, csx, or xx designations to name a few. This has not much to do with the front end panels and more to do with the quality of trim and level of std equipment in our market. For this reason we call them flat or early front, slant or late front, or panel van front, which is different again. They all marry up to different models I suspect you have, but saying dx or gl wont describe this to many Aussies. You should put up pics. From the pic of your stolen car, I can tell you that the round light model will need the guards and bonnet from your old car. It is what we call a flat or early front here in aussie. Then you can source the other bits to go with it. You will need lights and bumpers and beaver panel and grill, as well as the bit that ties it together in the front middle area. Please put up a pic of your current car.

Wondering what timing it uses while cranking. I think you should check the injectors with a light to make sure they are working.

What kind of idle control do you have? Do you just use a tap? What rpm is it idling at when it runs. Have you got access to a timing light?

Have you fitted a fuel filter yet? Is there a steel line pinched half shut under the car? Regs always honk when they are coming up to pressure. Keen to know the result of the light test on injectors.

Hello. Simply want to put my resources into finishing the other car (2azfe ae86) that I've been building. With 12k already in that build, and another 3-4 grand to spend to do it right, I'm getting to the point where I would like to sell this car and put all the time and funds into the 2azfe car. Plus, owning a Corolla is a never ending project. For example, you can't just neglect a car and not do the maintenance because you have another build happening. Since the 2azfe efforts have been ramped up I've done plenty on the 71 as well. New wheel bearings front and rear, new headers and extensive retuning, modified the exhaust a bit to make it more free flowing, changed to better rear calipers. So the idea is to move her along to a nice home while its all running beautifully and hopefully make someone very happy. Its a hard thing to find the right buyer, as most people don't want to buy a car with everything done, they would prefer to build one. I'm looking for the person that wants to save 3 years of their life and a bunch of money and just get it in their hands. Even though it makes sense its not a description of a Corolla person.

How rude. So what you doing today now?

Hey guys, theres a red ke30 wagon there, one owner - $1700. Sitting in the top yard where they sell the whole cars from. Very minimal rust although paint is faded. Might be a 55 but it doesnt have any bonnet flutes. Its a manual. The guy said, "oh and its only got 75,000ks on it", and I say "ah yeah but it resets at 100,000 so who knows", and hes like, "oh yeah", haha. Anyhow, I reckon you could get it for a grand if you waved some cash around. Looks like someone had polished back to the rear doors, and just stopped. Supposed to run sweet. Id give it a 6/10 overall, as its all there, it just needs love. Body was very straight, not much in the way of dents or carpark damage, just faded and a little rust.

That statement doesn't make sense to me. Explain?

OK, now the engine has the clutch and flywheel fitted, the gearbox mated up, and its all cleaned up ready for rwd installation. Too many fiddly jobs to mention. I dropped the mounts off to be powder coated a dark grey colour. Motor, box and diff have been wrapped and palletised so that I can start doing body work soon. Just need to chase up coilovers and then get it rolling for paint. Wish I had a scale, Id like to weigh motor n box.