Clapped out

Tis in a "hows it going" state, just needs a bit of tlc, cheers phatke30!

3k bottom end + 5k head = ..........................i want to be there when you fire it up! he he.......! cheers phatke30!

All crash, Geebung. :D

They're different, cheers phatke30!

Sounds like you put a rod through the side of the block yeah? cheers phatke30!

95% sure its your timing! cheers phatke30!

I think your on the ball cameron, i'll have a dig through the shed and see if i've got a spare. the ballast resistor in the pic is a brand new one, although it seems like it could be faulty. tojo2, the brown wire thats on the minus side of the the coil goes to the tachometre, there is a black wire on the minus side as well (hard to see in pic) which goes to the distributor. the red wire you also mentioned, i have tried to measure (even when cranking) although there doesn't seem to be any power what so ever, and yeah, i've disconnected all the unnecesseary wires (non factory), well removed as they were leading to no-where (maybe install for some reason by a previous owner). cheers phatke30!

^^^^^ I didnt check the voltage while cranking. One would think it shouldn't drop bugger all. When it comes to all the ohms equations.........? i don't understand. You mentioned i may have blew a fuse for the ignition? all is good, checked all the fuses, ive always got power from the main power wire that comes out of the loom to the ballast resistor even after the car has conked out, those other two auxiliary wires (so to speak) that come out of the loom (see pic avove, red/black to coil) don't have power at all in every senario. You also mentioned about disconnecting the fuel pump and priming? i alreay tried that, well sort of, i just removed the trigger wire and connected directly to the battery just to see if it had been a problem, still no difference. since i don't have a real clue what I'm doing, i got the old boy to check it out. not sure what he was measuring, he said that the trigger wire to the fuel pump relay is drawing next to nothing, so should't be a problem there, ALTHOUGH, As you (cam) mentioned above, the resistor is suppose to run at 8 volts with power running through it? i have average 12v at one end and average 4 volts the other end, if standard is suppose to be 8v this is not good. QUESTION, are there different types of ballast resistors? Maybe i'm running the wrong one if thats the case? Seems quite simple if everything seems to be in order and the only noticable problem from the beggining is the ballast resistor (getting hot), and a different voltage outcome. My spare parts guy seems to think ballast resistors are all the same, can someone clarify this? also thatnks for the help, cheers phatke30!

^^^^^^^^i hear where your coming from cam, although lack of fuel doesn't seem to be the problem. What i did this arvo was i pulled out the good old multi-metre! Okey doke, first i thought id see if there was any voltage coming from the two wires Tazrx suggested............but to no avail! there was no voltage at all coming from the wires with the ignition on and even with the engine cranking, is this a problem? I tested the voltage, from the wire that comes out of the loom to the ballast resistor, - 11.98v (car not running) After the ballast resistor with ingnition on and car not running - 3.86v, is this normal? re-routed the so to speak "enguage wire" to turn the fuel pump on, directly to the battery, started the car and the prick still stalled even with the fuel pump on! I've checked the fuel side of things, every ting A O K! i done this with the two wires tazrx suggested........disconnected. Although the ballast resister is still hot like a frying pan...........what the? I've also checked the condition of the above mention (cameron) in the dizzy...............A O K again, i'm lost! forgot to mention....stock coil. cheers phatke30!

The wires where you are refering to tazrx, one is the power source that comes out of the factory loom and the other wire (brown), thats the wire that runs up to the relay to trip it in and out (when ignition is either switched on/off (fuel pump)). And also a big favor from you to me..............please? I don't suppose you could explain to me about the ON and START power? These two wires, they are the black and red ones? cheers phatke30!

Agreed! don't suppose i could twist your arm to come?.................................maybe i could bring some di&*y di^%y ladies? lol! cheers phatke30!

he he........ :hmm:

hey dude, ONE- yes, they have slight crease marks from factory TWO- that is the vehicle identification number (VIN), it also has the same number stamped onto the alloy manufacture plate on the firewall (there are two, I'm refering to the one on the drivers side). the number stamped on the firewall is your chassis number. THREE- just pull the tank out and give it a clean, or maybe replace if your worried, hope this helps, cheers phatke30!

hi guys and girls, First thing's first.......I'M A RETARD WHEN IT COMES TO AUTO ELECTRICS! :hmm: On a more seroius note, i decided i'd have a go at sorting out my ignition situation today, attempting to run wires to the right things...rah..rah..rah, it's a bit hard to explain what i have done so the pictures will do the talking for me, Things were working fine before............until i touched it today. What i have done...I decided to wire up my fuel pump properly (i think) rather than having it running directly off of the positive on the coil (not good). You can see in the pic i have installed a relay, This is how i have wired it up, On the back of the relay packet, Pin30-power in pin85-earth pin86-switch pin87-power out accessory How i have followed pin30-power source direct from the battery pin85-earthed out to body pin86-ignition wire in the engine bay pin87-fuel pump PROBLEM! I installed a ballast resistor, i kept chewing through points every month, so i thought i'd chuck one in, since i have wired it all up this way, i start the car, then after a couple of minutes of the engine running the bastard cuts out and won't fire again, when this happenes the ballast resistor is like a frying pan and is way too hot to even touch! What have i done wrong? should i have not have tapped into the ignition wire to switch on the relay? Can someone please shed some light on the subject for me? thanks in advance, phatke30!

Did he try to start the car and piss off when he seen you coming? :jamie: Only joking mate, cheers phatke30!

Start of the gc motorway, done deal! :)

This is sort of related...............Can any goldcoast members verify how those road works are going down there on smith st? is it still like a four wheel drive track? Do some of us have to take an alternate route Getting to the dinner? May not be suitable for members with lowered cars thats all, cheers phatke30!

Thanks both of you guys! Very much appreciated! I'm going to have a look into them and see What differences there are between the above parts listed, cheers phatke30!

Hi all, I need the part number for a 3k bigport manifold gasket (gasket that goes between the manifolds and the head (inlet & exhaust)), I've done a search of the forum and typed in "3k bigport manifold gasket part number" but to no avail, my local parts guy doesn't know what i'm on about, supercheap and repco are just a bunch of F#*&%$!ds, either that or if someone could tell me the exact model of corolla they came out in, Thanks in advance, cheers phatke30!

Spotted last night 'pacman' with his yellow ke55 and also this morning spotted what looked very tidy a blue ke20 pulled over on the side of the road on beams road, gave him a hoot and waved, cheers phatke30!

That sucks! i'd turkey slap the guy! :( cheers phatke30!

Thats my personal pick, thats what i run in mine, make sure you grab a new filter with it as well :( , cheers phatke30!

If its a 1980 wagon, it will have ke38 xxxxxx on the chassis/vin number, cheers phatke30!

Its in his sig fella.

Good on ya mate! Glad you saved a rolla from the wreckers and the yellow one looks reasonably tidy, cheers phatke30!