Redwarf

Correct . I will continue to buy tools from the companies that do cover wear and tear. Thats one of the reasons why snapon isnt cheap. But they do stand by their warranties, and therefore have my business for my work tooling.

A lifetime warranty should be just that. If the jaws spread on my spanner, give me another one. Snapon: yes sir, no problem. Sidchrome, I'm sorry sir, our warranty doesn't cover that, that's wear and tear. . I'm a professional. I buy and use good quality tools. I don't mind paying good dollars for something with a good warranty. When it becomes inadequate to do the job, please can I have one that will. I've seen Snapon replace 40 year old ratchets because they're shagged. Here sir, heres a new one. A warranty (and service) like that builds loyalty. Sidchrome used to be like that. Talk to anyone over forty who's used them. Now they're not.

Why would you bother making a close box for just first and second??? If it's just for doing khanacrosses, you need to learn to drive faster.

Depends on the purpose for what you want to use it. My work tool box is a mix of snap on and stahlwille. Stahlwille tools feel a little unusual to use initially, but you get used to them, and they make some great specialty tools. I need to be able to go anywhere anytime so my tools are all in a stahlwille 5 tray cantilever box that locks up nice and tight. Never had a problem with either warranties for these two, and I've broken some stuff over the years. For home I have a kincrome wallmount which does the job. If I had my time again I'd probably buy a force set. Force are the trade tool brand in qld. I do have a issue with Sidchrome these days in that I have had difficulties with their warranties. Often they won't warranty "fair wear and tear" which is a cop out. Buy the best you can afford. When I was an apprentice I started with Sidchrome and over the years replaced with better stuff. The gear I have now will do me until retirement.

Trev towing with his AE82 up a big hill. :D

Gday. Per the forum rules, all items MUST have a price. I know you want swaps, but a price will give an idea of what you value the car at. Regards Rollaclub Mods.

The greatest stuff I've ever come across for moving ceased stuff is called "mouse milk". I have unscrewed the inscrutable with that.

You need to post this in the "wanted to buy" section please. Locked:

I must be old. I didn't get either.

Economy of words, Dave. :) Next i'll try a haiku. Edit: Fuel pump is broken Now in the twilight of life Replacement needed.

Fuel pump. No it isn't. It's broken. Replace it.

Probably because you don't drive like a tool. I have had road registered race cars and modified cars for over 20 years now. Was pulled over twice in the early days (yes, I deserved it too....) but have never been pulled over in Qld, and probably haven't been pulled over in 15 years. Why? Because if I have to drive them somewhere, I don't drive like a tool. Carbonboy, you're a better man than I. I can Mig, Tig and Arc, but I can't oxy to save myself. I have NEVER had the knack to do it.

If you want to be employed, go for it. If you want a career, find something else.

Sexy. Good to see you back, Banjo. :)

Needs more pink. Moved to correct section.

I last drove Lakeside about two weeks before it was resurfaced. I was doing hot laps in a brand new RX8 GT and had it step out at that point doing warp something. Brown trouser moment. It's a drivers track. You drive it at 95%. Always leave something in the toolbox . Bump it up to 98% for a lap, or 100% for two corner. Anything more and you'll take home a cube. I was talking to the guy that runs it and Willowbank, and he, at the time, stated he'd pulled more wrecked cars off Lakeside in 7 months than he had off Willowbank in 7 years. It is a track that must be treated with respect.

So much to do, so little time. Have been spending a bit of time with this thing recently. Wow does it need some work. Front left LCA is bent. Have alloy ones to replace both sides. STi quick rack to go in. Needs new power steering pump. Changing all four driveshafts. Interior and boot area a mess. My auto elec nearly had a baby when he saw it. Wires strung everywhere. Photo's below of some of the quality wiring jobs. But don't worry, everything was wrapped up in race tape, so it was safe. Need to change to fuel tank, as this one's full of crud. Looked at theat the other day, not a pleasant job. Still, it'll be worth it in the end. Pics of MCA Proflex shocks. Mmmmmmmm. Interior. Centre guage thingy is now gone. It'll all go into the centre control area Quality wiring.

Just as long as you realise that for every dollar spent, you'll be lucky to get 20c - 30c back when you sell it. 3SG. The one of RobJ's in Tassie (since sold) still makes my eyes glaze over.

Before this gets any leverage at all, you really need to talk to Irokin. There are alot of issues involved that you may not realise. To that end, I'm going to close this thread. However I will reopen it once things have been sorted out. PM on way to original poster. Regards R

You are looking to put this in a 40 year old car, with leaf springs and standard front discs that are a hand span across. Front strut, front brakes will need upgrade. Brake master wil need upgrade. Hydraulic clutch install required. Engine cross member to be modified, gearbox crossmember to be modified. It wouldn't surprise me if you run into trouble with shifter mounting problems due to the cross beam nearby. Custom tailshaft. Diff upgrade with brakes to suit. Throw some time and money at the rear end (yes, leafs will cope with it, but it'll need some work...). Rewiring, fuel system, cooling system, engine management. And you'll still have a 40 year old car, that's going to twist and flex. $20K wont cut it.

You wont get there with 20K.

Yes they are, and yes it is.

Build it to CAMS schedule J. That way it can be resold as a drift/ track/ rally car. If you don't build it to CAMS spec, you close the door to many potential buyers.

Unless your driveline is as equally robust as a hilux diff, hard launches are only going to end up obliterating other parts of your car.