kangaroosa

I heard you right down the end of my street. It sounds nuts!! I forgot to mention there is a BP servo down the road so you could fill up after that little squirt :jamie:

Its just bolted to the wheel well with the supplied soft mount. Earth straight to the mounting. The Ign Wire come from the pump relay in the engine bay. The fuel line plugs straight onto the top of the fuel tank where the existing line was. From there it goes into an efi fuel filter and then into the pump Then the outlet off the pump goes behind the tank and through the floor where the existing line goes. Its then just hose clamped on the metal line that runs under the car. In the engine bay, I have a Holley Red regulator and inline pressure gauge. The pics wont attach so i'll try them later......if you read this before then. *EDIT* Pics just uploaded

I have a 7000km old S3 Extend port in the shed that is blowing smoke. It was using the external oil cooler, so i'm in no rush to test if the oil pressure lag was at fault with this current motor. As for the fuel, I'm going to Echuca next week. Still undecided whether to take the rolla and 4 tanks of fuel or the daily and 2 tanks. ;) So what did you other guys get up to after we left? Did the cruise continue?

I was there a few weeks back and there was an XT130 Corona there with all the front end still present (struts, LCA's and steering arms). I was half tempted to yank it out for anyone on here that wanted it......but i got a case of the Coombies. Worth taking a look there if your chasing that gear as they normally get snapped up pretty quickly.

I was thinking the same thing about tools when I left this morning.....its a Rotary after all ;) I was more worried about leaving behind the Jerry can of fuel I normally carry in the boot.

My phone keeps reverting back to crappy settings so this is the best i've got. Good to meet you all anyway. Its been years since I've had a Rolla to cruise in, so all the faces were new to me.

Was just contemplating this. Its raining with lightning and thunder right now. The forecast is for rain and showers tommorrow. Doesnt really make for nice cruising weather, so i'm a no go at this point in time. If I wake up and the sun is shining, I may change my mind.

You planning on going City bound? (I guess thats a given considering beach rd ends at Mordialloc) I went through Frankston the other day and cops were everywhere....fortunately they had a few Commodores pulled over. I might be up for this one tommorrow since I think I finally had the Rolla sorted.

You can get a 3 row core fitted to the stock KE radiator. I had that coupled with a 10" DC Thermo and never had issues. The standad fan and shroud is preferable anyway, and will cool any K engine you have....no matter how wild it is. Anything bigger than a KE radiator will be useless without cutting up the radiator support to get full airflow over the larger core.

$550 incl GST. That included cutting down of the struts, supply and fit of the coilover kit and supply and fit of the springs. I think the upper mount had to be modified to suit the larger diam shocker thread?? Thats trade price btw through pedders. Full retail was over $1000

Yes the PCD is the same. You use the Corona hubs which are 4x114.3 as well. 15"s fit fine. I had trouble trying to find 14"s that would fit, when i was troubleshooting my excessive front track. The only machining will be to the rotor. They just foul on the caliper, so they have to be machined down 2-3mm in diameter which your brake shop can do. The pads don't contact the entire face of the rotor (they stop a few mm from the outter edge) so there is no problem with them over hanging the outter edge of the rotor. The holes in the rotors have to be drilled 1mm bigger in diameter so it bolts up to the hub. You can actually use (S5 RX7 ?) pads in the landcruiser calipers. So that opens a whole world of selection when it comes to pad choice.

I have the usual Corona Strut, Peugeot Rotors and Landcruiser Calipers on mine. I had the Strut cut down to suit SV21 KYB shocks and had a Pedders coilover kit fitted. I've also upgraded to a VN V8 1" Master Cylinder which bolts straight up to a KE55 or 30 Booster (you'll have to check which bolt pattern is right). The stock RX7 brakes from a S1,2,3 are not worth rooting around with. The later model calipers are popular, but thats about all. If your after simplicity, this is one of the easier proven conversions. Chuck some good pads in there and they pull up like nothing you've owned before. Mine V's Stock - You do the Maths

If it doesnt cook at idle, but it does it at speed.....Then the radiator isnt getting good air flow and isnt cooling efficiently when its got load on it. Some tubes in the radiator could be blocked which provides enough cooling at idle with the fan, but when the engine is under load the cooling system is sub par. The Water Pump may need looking at aswell. Get a digital thermometer with a probe. Shove it in the top fins of the rad and then the bottom. If there is no noticeable temp difference then the rad isnt doing its job. Stick the probe in the radiator water and see what temp its really at. I had a speco gauge tell me my car was on 97deg, whereas the digital probe and a mercury cooking thermomter both read ~86deg. Don't believe whatever the Std gauge reads. I had this exact issue with the rotary a few weeks back.

Write up another receipt. I bought my engine 3 years before i got the mods approved. I lost the receipt so i called up the original engine owner and asked if he minded me writing up another receipt and back dating it. He was fine with it.

Sounds like your Xmas break is sorted :lol: The Holley red was a nice choice. I have them in mine....they're a bit loud even with the soft mounts. Then again the Carter fuel pump was louder.

You run one or the other. On Tweakit.net you can get a PWR Rad for under $800. My PWR oil Cooler was $350. What size oil cooler did you get? I couldnt really fit a S1 cooler without chopping the car up.

The engine number isnt stamped on the head if its a K motor. If you have changed the engine block, you will need to provide a reciept for the purchased engine to show its not stolen.

New S1 RX7 Mounts. Circular Type.

This is how i went about it with my KE30. Maybe you could adapt the concept to suit your pedal box. It takes a bit of measuring to get the right mounting point on the pedal to achieve the right throw of the rod. The master would obviously be mounted in the engine bay on the other side of the firewall. I have added a brass tube on the threaded rod to act as a bearing for the coupling. Its all welded up on the main points as well so theres no chance of something coming loose. The outter nut is loctited on so it can be removed for whatever reason.

What brand and pics?

At a guess it would be borderline. Go get your car measured up at a tyre shop and they will tell you what offset you can afford to run in 15x7. Assuming you don't care about the regulations regarding max wheel track increases....

I had 15x7 +11 on the front of my KE30 and it was 'just' inside the front gaurd and cleared the strut with 10mm to spare. The rears were 15x7 +25 and was set in from the gaurd about 25mm. So i guess you could maybe get away with something close to a 0 offset on the rear.

You thin your paint to a certain consistancy....not to a ratio. Ratios may get it in the ball park, but getting the right mix will perfect it. I have never used Supercheap paint, nor would i ever. You get what you pay with Paints. Reading a book and doing some googling may help save you money infact. When you put the first pot of paint onto your car and it runs like crazy.....its going to cost you wet and dry paper, more paint, more thinnners plus your time. You will need 15-20psi in pressure, but you will need a steady supply. A compressor running out of puff midway through a panel is never fun. I've written a few how to's on painting already and i'm not going to do it again. But find a spare panel and practice first. Get your pressure and spray pattern right. This is my car that I sprayed a few months back in Automotive Acrylic. Just so you know what finish you can achieve if you spend some money on 'decent' paint and thinners.

Interesting, I didnt know they were stocked locally. I might investigate that. Did your radiator come with all the right mounts? I heard some fitting and re-drilling was necessary for most blokes. What about thermo fan allowances -Was there any mounts for them or did you have to make mounts yourself. As for the Rad......yeah i think I payed close to $200 to have it re-cored, plus about $50 to have pipes moved a few times and clean it etc. So the $100 I get will pay for a tank of fuel and for the RX7 Rad to be freshened up which should be ready tommorrow.

The only ones I have.