snot35

It's MAP. I've checked power to the ECU, but not outputs to the fuel pump.

I just finished reading that MR2 thread too. Stout power. I need to hurry up and finish my conversion so I can start modifying!

Cheers. Does the fuel pump on these prime and then stop, or run continually? I didn't hear anything, but wasn't listening out for it. Power was going to the ECU and I have checked the ECU relay. If I get a chance on the weekend that the ECU is triggering things. It's been sitting for a while, it might just need a bit more cranking.

Yep, that dyno run sounds right :)

It's not quite that much of a can of worms, and something that I'm not likely to grow fond of either! But definitely hassle me again in a month or two ;) Who knows, maybe I'll have a productive summer!

You're cruel! :) I'm finding in between children, family sickness most of winter and work, I'm not getting much done. All the tar is off of the firewall and I've given it a paint. Another quick coat and I'll put most of the dash back in. I've also managed to get the donor car to turn over from being completely dead. It's not starting though, so I'll get into that on the weekend if only briefly. My missus has started freaking out about me using power tools of an evening as the shed is more or less under the house. Yet another hurdle! I'm not going to pressure myself about the project though, or I'll end up hating the sight of it and it will get abandoned. I may have picked up another piece o' crap that I can do khana's in while I build this thing....

Oh don't say that :( The guy I bought it from didn't seem the sharpest tool. I'll check for spark. I've got a digital multi meter, I'll see if I can check for injector pulses with that. Thanks all for the help so far :)

Yeah, usual stuff then. I can't hear the fuel pump, but then it's in tank and under the floor so that didn't surprise me. I'll check it out. One step at a time :)

So it turns out the ALT fuse was gone on this one. I thought I'd checked it with a meter rather than by sight, but obviously I hadn't. New fuse and the dash is now on and it will crank over. It's not starting though, so on to the next round of troubleshooting! What's the first port of call, should I just jumper the diagnostics port and go from there?

That's what threw me, the longer doors. That is a lot of effort to go to! Be keen to see how this turn out.

I like the clutch line solution. Shame more people don't do it that way!

Wow, how was the two door conversion done, any ideas? It looks like a proper factory two door to me..

If you've got a carb specialist handy that hsould make it easier! I guess you'd need to work out the linkage type on the carbs, I believe some bikes are push pull with two cables, where cars are generally single cable and spring return. Linkages are fairly easy though, they should be a pretty small part of this project.

You'll get a few jealous comments from people down here, these cars are rare and I'm pretty sure all ours are K powered. Sounds like you've got a 3T engine with a T50 hanging off of it. That should get along quite well! Visit brdracing.com for bits for that one. I have nothing more useful to add, but good luck with the build and sorry about the Supra. Glad you're still in one piece and welcome!

I'm pretty sure all Aussie 4AGE cars had oil coolers, but they are set to open above a certain pressure instead of by temperature. I'd like to change my setup to thermo controlled at some stage. I guess Toyota didn't see a problem with fitting them, so maybe it doesn't have a huge down side? I don't believe there are larger pumps available for the 4AGE. And I echo the comments on the bumper, subtle change but vastly better :) Oh, and thanks for the fuel system details oldskewl! This is a bridge I have to cross soon. Currently I have an external EFI pump, but the line sizes do bug me. People claim they don't have problems with the carb sized lines, but I wonder about their limits.

When I was debating this, CBR600 carbs seemed to be the cheapest. I'd imagine you'd need to do some fab work for linkages. My intention at the time was to get carbs including trumpets so you could either box them, or go with socks initially to save work on getting all that done. Also, you need to give some thought to the fuel pump, bike carbs are designed to run at very low pressure and generally the pump on bikes is different to car pumps. They are usually an interrupter pump that is able to turn off once the appropriate pressure is achieved, where car pumps are constant. I believe you can mess around with return lines to get it to work, but it sounded finicky and just another thing to go wrong. Also consider the rest of the engine. If you're still running stock ports and exhaust then the car is probably going to be noisier post conversion, but not actually quicker.

Nice work, finally, play time!

Authenticity? :)

You'd still want to check.

There are rarely cheap answers to these problems. I'd suggest if you can't afford to do a twin Weber conversion you're not actually going to do that much better with bike carbs unless you can do all the fab and tuning yourself. Remember they aren't a really common setup, so finding places to tune them may be difficult. If it's a car you rely on, don't do it.

Didn't you have one of those? :)

Thanks for the offer. That part of the project is a fair way down the line, there are a lot of other things to get working first, but I'll keep it in mind :)

Was it difficult to fit the tacho? I have a similar issue, KE70 dash and a donor AE82 twin cam, so I might do this conversion :)

Well, technically the head isn't stock ;) But keep it up, I'm enjoying the build! :)

It'll be good to see what sort of power you get :)