snot35

Noooo! That sucks guys. Good you've lived to fight another day, hopefully it will be an equally as sweet Corolla!

Wow, nice work guys!

Guys, got my S14 that I want to get rid of. Needs some work, more details on gumtree: http://www.gumtree.com.au/m-my-ad.html?adId=1025500522 Cheers

Yeah, that's an odd requirement. Aren't Corona 4 stud too? Re drill for sure

As long as those flares are nicely filled, I don't think anyone will pay much attention to the bumpers :)

Yeah, looks like a reasonable base. Get into it! :)

With a locker, worrying about 1/4 turn feel is probably obsolete. Your driving finesse should now become driving flamboyance ;)

Interesting. I thought this one through not long ago when finding some 36mm IDF's in a Upullit. Passed on them because I didn't want to chop the bonnet. It would have been tight, even in a '70. You can also buy phenolic spacers to suit those Webers on ebay, with varying heights which is interesting. I like the idea of recycling though, nice!

Are 7K equipped with hydraulic lifters? That will dictate cam choice to some degree.

32mm chokes for a 4K are way too big. Unless it's a full race motor and you don't care about nice acceleration I reckon you'll have a hard time tuning it to ever run nicely. Off the top of my head 140 is too big too. Best start with the yellowpages and find a carb guy that will do Solex's. You might have to search for a while though! These guys seem to be the place to go for keeping these carbs alive and for parts. They may be able to offer advice: http://www.rmcarburetors.net/

Have you had a look under your car to work out how this all hangs together?

Love it, I'll probably need to know that sort of repair one day. I've got a head start now! :)

I'm much rather use something like that that's probably accurately turned to the correct dimensions with parallel faces than a stack of washers from Bunnings. This is one of those interfaces where failure isn't an option. For my money the AJPS setup is the best and is the only one I'd consider using. Plenty of thread engagement etc.

Yeah cool. You don't need longer LCA's. The only thing you'll have to worry about it whether you can actually wind enough thread into the tie rod end so get the correct toe setting. You could probably measure this before installation. Measure the thickness of the washers. Then mark the thread going into the tie rod end that thickness out from the end of tie rod end. If it will wind in that much you're good. If not then you probably will need longer LCA's or tie rods.

How wide are the spacers and where do they go? If they operate on the same principle as the AJPS spacer you do not necessarily need longer arms. The spacer goes between the rack and ball joint, pushing the steering arms outward from the center line of the car. If anything you'll need to wind more thread into the rod ends to compensate if nothing else is changed. However, it is a good time to do longer LCA's if you can. I used KE30 arms in mine which gives an extra 10mm a side. This would roughly cancel out the extra 20mm or so of the spacer. This also gives you a little more negative camber (or some if you don't have it at all), which is a good thing. Can you link to any details of the product? This will allow us to be more specific.

Ah, yes of course, I'd forgotten about that happening for smaller events. You're going to be stuck with compromises if that's the case, but if you're going to make it work reasonably well for both circumstances I'd be getting back to stock-ish ride height and be running reasonably soft springs. I don't think incredibly fancy suspension is going to help you. One of the things I'd like to do further down the track is convert to 2.25" springs on the front struts (and maybe do some fabrication work so I can use the same style spring on the back) so that I have a decent range of springs available to me for tuning. Getting a decent range that will fit stock spring perches is difficult and usually the rates are designed for tarmac which is useless for dirt. Far too hard. I'd consider going back to stock springs all 'round to be honest. Or if the XT130 is in a workable state try those. They will most likely have a harder spring than an AE71 which wouldn't be a bad thing, but it wouldn't be 175lb hard. You'd have to see what ride height you're left with though.

Well I'd say more grip is a function of setting a car up, but anyway. Soft back, softening the front should also give back some grip as well. A little camber and as much castor as you can handle, done. It will be unhealthy for the bushes, as mentioned above.

From memory the way that actually rate horsepower changed somewhere around that era, you're probably comparing apples and oranges. Everyone is right, 5K is the way to go. Stroke is the same and there's greater potential for bigger valves if you really want to rev it. Plus the port design on the 5K's that I've seen is much nicer. The short turn is actually a turn and not a step. The 4KU manifold might be one of the small port variants, so you wouldn't be gaining much.

I can't say for sure, as I'm still experimenting with setup on mine, but 175 seems quite hard. Remember by stiffening/raising the front and lowering the back you're making it more difficult for weight to get forward onto the front tyres. Generally when setting up for a turn you're braking quite hard to put weight onto the tyres to make them work before turning in. My current setup is TE72 struts, stock height (currently too high I think, I also have slight positive camber). These springs are probably only 120lb though. I'm running stock rear springs too, should be 90-100lb. Stock front bar, no rear bar and a locked diff. I like the setup, I've never had noticeable under steer problems, but then the locked diff requires a bit more aggression. Road tyres on dirt are always going to be a bit hairy when it's wet. My first step would be to get some second hand rally treads if you can, they make all the difference in the world. They also like to be run without too much camber. AE71 and XT130 gear should not change camber. Crank in as much caster as your arms can handle, that should help a lot. I need to trim the guards to get more into mine. Personally I'd go for some gas struts. You can change the fluid in wet legs to firm them up, but given their age and springs and shims in there are probably pretty tired. Making them work harder will shorten their life quite quickly. I reckon I'd save the money and skip adjustable LCA's for a while. Really good shocks are probably the best investment if you can swing it.

So it's a genuine K powered car then :)

Yeah, it is Cornes Toyota. Not quite as cool as the Publica though!

So I can't say mmint, is that right?

Passing the Toyota dealership on Unley Road the other night, there is an extremely clean looking KE25 on display in the showroom. Just in case anyone wants a look :) I was hoping it would be a Levin or Trueno, but couldn't see any flares. Didn't go in for a closer look.

My preference would be a wired connection. Bluetooth can be a bit flaky.

Just go 3TGTE for the replica, no one would ever know ;)