snot35

What are you aiming to do with the car? Is it fun only? Track hack? How much do you want to spend? The way I see it: T motors are very robust and have been shown to handle a lot of boost, but to get good power you'll be pouring a heap of money into it and parts are getting hard to find. I wouldn't use it as a base. A motors are reasonably supported, but starting to get a bit old. If you've stripped an AE71 you've got all the bits to bolt it in. If it's a mild setup you should do OK, if it's not the gearbox won't last long and you'll be looking for W boxes which is getting more expensive and harder to find. SR's a pretty common, supported and parts are bought and sold a fair bit. If you want cheap power it's probably the way to go. There's a bit of work in conversion, but only a bit more than with an EFI A motor. Of course, the further down the list you go, the less street able the car will be and the more the cops will get upset if you get pulled over.

You've forgotten that it's also supercharged at up to 25 pounds :) Another no for side pipes. There is a lot to gain from properly made manifolds. Single pipes like that are just a PITA

Good to see you chipping away at it! You're making me feel guilty for not doing anything with mine, apart from accumulating more parts (and jobs). I blame the children myself :P :)

Your boot floor says steep descent. :lolcry:

Is it just me, or is that a pretty short wheel based kart? That thing is going to be a hand full! :)

Those things are scarily fast, but look like stacks of fun. What sort of kart?

Nice on both! I started trying to get to the cams last night to see if it had any, but ran out of time. It certainly has stock cam pulleys, so I suspect that the block will be stock. I want an E8 for $200! That would suit the 4AGE so well with ITBs... As far as I can tell the flywheel is Toda, or a copy.

So I picked up a 2nd gen 4AGE on the weekend. It's out of an AE86, so it's got loom, all the RWD parts, engine mounts, ecu and a T50 on the back. The block itself is toast, it was run without oil and chucked rods out of the side, but I figured I could sell the gearbox to easily cover the costs of getting the whole package and I'd have a bunch of RWD bits that will come in handy. Checked it over I noticed that it had TRD cast into the shifter mount, so it's got a short throw shifter on it. Nice! Took it home, pulled off the gearbox and it has a lightweight chromoly flywheel and 3 puck racing clutch in it, yes! Anyway, I needed to find some rev heads and share that one. Has anyone else had good scores like this?

This is shaping up very nicely indeed :)

If you can find one in good nick then I reckon he's right.

Bit of work, but all fixable without it being ridiculously expensive, well, maybe except for the Webers. Keep at it!

Wow! Nice work!

Actually, coil is another good point. It certainly sounds electrical to me.

Have you considered that if the timing mark is jumping around it might be an ignition problem? The light is triggered by ignition events after all. I would have thought if the chain was stretched then the timing would be pretty consistently out, rather than erratic. I'd be checking everything for wear or binding while you have the chain off. Oil pump and shaft up to the dizzy. The dizzy, cam etc. Also, the chain will be loose when the engine isn't running. Oil pressure pushes that shoe out to give it tension. Make sure that isn't binding and check the cam/dizzy/oil pump drive setup for any damage to teeth which might be making things erratic. I hope you're patient, this may take some chasing. It's actually sounds like a dodgy condenser to me, but I take it you've replaced that (assuming you're still running points)? When you replaced it, did you clean up all the electrical contact points? If you haven't, it might be worth going through the ignition system and check it. Things like, where the condenser bolts to the pad, that can be tidied up with a little sand paper for better contact. Let us know how you get on.

Yep, LSD is another good idea if you can get it.

Definitely get gas. I've got a Cigweld which I've done body work panels with. Another consideration I had was spares. Basic Cigweld spares are on the shelf at Bunnings, anything more can be ordered there, so it's a bit more convenient. Also get one that can go down to smaller tips for body work, it makes heat control easier. I got mine second hand for about the same as a new Chinese welder. It's heavy, solid and still going strong.

Yeah, you're going to have a blast! One of the things I'd say about khanacross is if you can get rally treads and are allowed to run them it will make a huge differences to over all times. Also, the rules state that you can have no straight longer than 100m so khanacross is more about acceleration rather than outright speed. To that end, don't build a peaky race motor, you want something with torque. You may actually find that the 7AFE is more suited to khanacross than the 4AGE, it just won't sound as good! For my money, your list is close but I'd put rally tires at the top of the list, even second hand they make a huge difference. Get some with as sharp an edge as possible. A good seat and harness helps with the confidence. Strip as much weight as you possibly can. If you don't care about looks then get rid of bonnet webbing, gut doors, air con etc. I wouldn't be too worried about getting rid of drum brakes. As long as you can get the hydraulic handbrake to work with them they'll do OK. You'll have a bit of fun with the handbrake as I believe the braking circuits in these are dual cross over. Someone could probably confirm that.

Yours are Fireballs Altezza :P

Over the years they changed the way they test and publish horsepower figures. In true Japanese style as they developed things, they were miniaturised and the horses became smaller :P :) Emissions requirements also kicked in and spoiled the fun, so they had to do all they could to get power back. Never mind, it's all easily rectified!

Nice, chuck it in the Rides section and I'm sure there will be a few people watching with interest. Photos help too. Get into it! :)

Nice one. I went to Toyota MegaWeb a few years ago. Great spot! Shame they weren't doing the live car restoration when I was there..

Hey Andy, are you finding much difference between the 606 and the 740?

What sort of weight old steel vs new glass?

I'm sensing you're going to build the toughest looking KE30 I've ever seen.... :)

It makes sense, I suspect my seat will fail before the plate!