snot35

I'm pretty sure RA40 won't be easier, they are very similar. The only advantage to my knowledge is that the spindle on the RA40 strut is larger and takes a bigger bearing, so is therefore stronger. If you're not doing stuff (e.g. rally) where you're going to pound the life out of it, AE86 is just fine. If you have AE86, I'd probably look at what you can do to fix what you don't like about them unless you come across some others or RA40 gear cheap.

Yeah I'm pretty sure they're welded underneath. You want a lathe or similar to get them out cleanly. Then, convert to inverted bilsteins with these ;) http://grp4fabrications.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=565

Looks like it works OK? :)

You're a tease :)

Another vote for the SX. KE30's are cool, but as time goes on, getting parts is going to become harder and harder. Great if you're an enthusiast. Not so great if you need it to get to work or studies.

*like*

What's a TE16? I don't know if that even exists, are you in the US? If you're sticking to generations, generally anything xE7x will fit in. So, for example, I have TE72 struts in my KE70. They went in using the KE70 strut tops to suit the chassis bolt holes. I've got them bolted to AE86 power steering arms which are actually mated to KE30 lower control arms and tie rods. The TE72 struts are bigger in diameter, I'm using AE86 inserts in mine. AE86 struts can also be used with the appropriate strut tops. Let us know what you're struts are actually from, if there is a TE16 it's very old and there'd be few people here that would be able to confirm it would work I'd image. I'd also be wondering what size brakes you can actually fit to those struts. It would probably be something quite small and unsuitable!

We've just picked up a T30 to lug the family, and maybe tow the Corolla if necessary. Even the manual is so unexciting to drive! When I first started driving it, it was depressing, but then I reminded myself that it's a tow car and it's not a fun car :) There's a decent looking forum of X Trail nuts, if you haven't found it already: baustralianxtrail.runboard.com I haven't used it too much yet. I think they're a pretty good thing generally. I'm not so sure about T31 info, as I was focussed on the T30. I get the idea with the T30 at least, the dual mass flywheel is a pain. I'm guessing (but don't know) that the T31 probably has dual mass too. There are replacement kits available which take it back to single mass, they're about $600. I believe the dual mass flywheels are designed to be replaced rather than machined and that's about $2K in parts. Probably not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but worth knowing about, especially at inspection. They're pretty common cars though, so parts availability and price seems pretty good. There always seems to be ones at auction and plenty about being wrecked. Do the usual; check recalls and get a decent inspection and I reckon you'll do well. That's what I'm trying to do :)

So I did a bit of a run a couple of days ago to Elizabeth and Gillman. Wow, truly sad as far as Corolla's go! Probably the highlight was two AE93 Twin Cams, both with small ports, one missing a dizzy. Otherwise I don't think I spotted a single RWD Corolla. It's all pretty much AE82's etc. A couple of Corona's, an XT130 but no struts. But really slim pickings! :/

That's sort of why I asked. If you're getting headers made, then it's curious to ask for tube sizing, I would have thought the maker would be able to help with that, or you're leaning toward a shot in the dark which is probably the same as getting something off the shelf :) There's a fair art to proper headers, is my understanding.

Any reason for custom headers over something commercial?

hehehe Excel, horrible. But disposable! It's a fair point. I've got a friends one in my driveway that I hate the site of. I'm not sure if I want it gone, or if I want to do khanas in it ;)

I'd like to point out, you're asking a bunch of Corolla fans, so there may be bias! I'd say, it depends. We're talking about cars that are getting toward 30 years old, so it's really going to depend on how well the car has been maintained. You can guarantee that if it has original suspension etc. then that will all be shot by now. The motors and drive line is generally bullet proof and will last many k's with fairly minimal maintenance, but that doesn't mean it isn't shot. Also, they do rust. They are obviously also lacking many safety features, ABS, airbags, crumple zones etc etc. This makes them very simple cars. If you want something that you don't mind putting a bit of work into, and you want to learn more about, then they are a brilliant first choice. They are basic, don't require special tools generally and are very easy to work on. If you don't want to take much of an interest in the condition of the car when you buy it, and just want to drive it with all the creature comforts, I'd go for something newer (probably still a corolla ;) ). They're becoming an enthusiast car, if they aren't already, but for very good reason!

People don't tend to touch the vacuum advance. I'm not 100% sure how you'd modify that, or even if it would be worth it. Generally re curving is done by change the springs and weights in the unit, but you need to know where you want to head with it. Generally with modified engines you have more initial advance, less overall advance, and it comes in sooner. You achieve this by heavier weights or lighter springs and by modifying the limits of the weights' movement. All up, it's a lot of research and experimentation, or just send it to someone with experience and the right gear to test it. Tell them your setup and save yourself a hell of a lot of hassle. If you have the time and love experimenting, have a go. I love experimenting, but have no time, so I'd be getting someone else to do it :)

Take note that there are two types, the AE71 and ADM AE86 box has the clutch cylinder on the passengers side, the JDM AE86 is on the drivers side. If yours is a 4AC and you plan to keep it that way then it might be better to get a box with the clutch slave on the passengers side so the exhaust heat doesn't affect your hydraulics. If you plan to go twin cam at some stage, try and get a JDM box and just live with it for a little while. You can get all sorts of braided lines etc. to help with the heat, so it's not a huge issue, but if you're starting from scratch, may as well choose wisely.

Very nice. I'm keen to see shots of it in its' natural habitat :)

Yeah I like what you're doing with the LCA's. So what is the ball joint you're using, and it looks like you need to put your own taper on it or something??

NOS! Now this is interesting....

I'm not entirely sure what you mean by C notched chassis section, or how much of the floor has been removed, but you don't have to remove the whole lot necessarily. This might be good for a look, this is how the world championship rally Ford Escorts were done back in the day. They were very successful, so it's proven. I'm always shocked about how light the gauge of metal holding everything together is, but there you go. Arms there are 30", boxes added for the arms, they turret things too for the shocks. http://hyme.techno.net.au/FFCC/Escort%20Rally%20car%20files/Chapter%2005%20-%20Rear%20Suspension.pdf

I've never used these guys personally, but I get the idea they're quite active in the scene and specialize in Corolla's, so it might be worth a chat. http://rdmechanicalshop.com/

Yep, there is. I think there's four of them or something. So you want all the philips head screws out of the front, and then right in under the dash the bolts nearer the front edge. It then comes out really easily.

I reckon I might steal your leak down testing methodology sometime soon. Cheers! :)

That thing is nuts! Hang in there, imagine it full noise in the forests, you know it will be worth it :)

Are you being literal? :)

You may need to update the firewall plate.... :)