snot35

Not currently, I pulled it out again. Can't remember why now :) I'll leave everything aligned and put it back in and double check tonight. Cheers.

Alright, using a screw driver down the hole, the pulley seems to line up with TDC as near as is possible to tell. I also whipped off the cam covers and the pulleys are in the right spot, so that's all good. Couldn't be bothered digging out the meter to do the TPS, I've had enough today. :)

Cheers. I did time it by hand, so the star was pointing at the pick up when I had it statically timed to 10 degrees and the rotor seemed to be pointing in the right direction. Admittedly I have not verified that TDC on the pulley is true TDC, I should really put that on the list of things to check. Good idea to check TPS too, thanks. Thanks for the links, I'll have a read.

Right, I've been chipping away at this one. ECU is fine, and is indicating normal codes when jumpered. It has new plugs and the leads measure OK for resistance. Cap and rotor is OK. I can get it to start and catch, but then it dies. Subsequent restarts are more laboured, and then it needs to sit for a while before it will restart nicely. I've set base timing manually, but it doesn't stay running long enough for me to check it on the timing light. It seems like it's over fueling, there's a definite fuel smell. There are a few immediate problems, but I'm not sure they're contributing factors: - The seal on the dizzy has gone, so there is oil everywhere. There is some oil in the dizzy, but I don't think it's enough to really upset the signal. Indeed you can hear the zaps if the ignition is on and you turn it by hand. - There's a VSV valve with a broken lead floating around the engine bay, I believe it used to connect to the airbox, but this thing has a pod filter. It has been bypassed, as far as I can tell the vacuum line coming from it used to go to the airbox, then a larger vacuum line came out of the same fitting and went to an adjusting valve by the bonnet hinge. The other air line goes to the throttle body. I've seen an old post (Hiro?) where this wasn't even connected and the car went OK, so I don't think it's that. Any ideas? I'm working through the diagnostic manual slowly, but the first step is to set base timing, so that's a little off putting! :) I have a leak down tester, so I might fire up the compressor on the weekend to check to make sure it's nothing like that. I don't have a pressure gauge suitable for EFI, I might try and source one. Any help greatly appreciated! Mike

Yeah I gave the rack a freshen up a few pages back. The car came to me with split boots and a pretty grubby rack, so I gave it some attention. Seems to be reasonably well adjusted now, so it's back on the cross member with new boots and mounting bushes. :)

If it's a road car, keep the EFI? :)

My brother worked there years ago and I'm not surprised. Many of their wheels were quickly knocked off by Chinese companies and they were under cut. I don't think there was a whole lot they could do about it. Their production processes were pretty old fashioned too!

Oh, I finally have a decent phone camera too, so I might actually get some shots in here!

Spent some time working on the donor car. I've managed to get the engine to start now, but it won't stay started. I was trying to set base timing but it kept conking out. Then I worked out that you're supposed to short the diagnostic plug, damn fangled EFI! I've picked up some replacement tie rods, so when I get a chance I'll get that back together and the cross member back in. So next steps are: - See if I can pull any codes off of the donor car and manually set timing. Hopefully that's all I need, if not I'll work my way through the 4AGE diagnostic manual. - Give the tie rods a scrub and then put the cross member back in and bolt up that and the LCA's, might as well bolt the struts back up too - Scrub and paint the steering column

Love your work, I reckon I might have to try the same and nick the dash out of my donor twinky once the engine goes in.

Cool, home made bench? Details please? :)

Exactly. If you have access to the car the motor came from, grab the fuel tank, it'll be an EFI tank with baffles and an in tank pump. It more or less bolts in, although I believe you have to muck around with fuel filler to get it to fit in an AE71. So your options are: - get a JDM AE86 tank and do some mods - get a lift pump, surge tank and EFI pump Remember that EFI works at a far higher pressure thank carb, so you need to make sure all the lines between the EFI pump and the motor are EFI capable.

I must be the only one doing this :) Lonsdale, 3 KE30/55's, an AE71 auto and a couple of KE70's. Also RA40 missing struts, XT130 missing LCA's but still with struts. AE71 is missing radiator, which is what I wanted! Grrr Couple of ST13X's, a twin cam AE82 with motor, one without.

All good on the cross member. Rack is back on. Now I'm chasing some tie rods and I've cross threaded and wrecked on of them and can't get it back on. Hoping to rectify that with a wrecker run tomorrow so I can get the cross member and suspension back in. Cleaning it all a little, but not getting too carried away with painting for now. Only the bits that will really suck to get out again at a later date. Stupid plumbing in the house busted which slowed me a little! :/

From memory for at least a year or two the WRC Subaru Imprezza's ran their turbo vertically or near vertically. However, finding out details about that is going to be difficult. With the quick search I did, I could only find some poor quality pictures.

Wouldn't the actual piston set up be the same between disk and drum brakes? I.e. if the sealing was a problem for drum brakes, then it would be for disks. I would have thought that the valve is probably holding the shoes close to the drum as there is a return spring between drum shoes. If they returned fully after brake application then you'd have to pump them a fair way before they'd actually provide braking, which wouldn't be ideal. I've never tackled the disk to drum problem, but it seems an after market valve should offer the least mucking around.

Wow, this thing looks a bit nuts! Good luck with the build :)

Cross member is still tacky, so perhaps I painted it too thick :/ I hope I don't have to re do it, that would be a pain. Tried to pressure test the heater core but couldn't get nice sealing with my dodgy bike tube plugs. Was going to keep trying but the 1 year old sounded like he was going to be a pain all night so I quit to grab any sleep I could just in case. Slept fine, don't feel any better :) Annoyed by lack of progress though!

Still chipping away. Cross member is painted and if I'm happy with the finish I'll bolt that in over the next few nights and start putting suspension components back in. So the immediate list is: - Cross member fitting - Pressure test the heater core, fit if OK or take it to a rad place if it isn't - Wire wheel and paint the end of the steering column that pokes into the engine bay. It's grubby and it just annoys me! Hopefully the core is OK and I can get to putting that back in so I can put the dash back. Phone is f'ed, it won't read my SD card so I can't take pictures with it. If I remember I'll grab the proper camera.

As said, brand name lowering springs for the front, reset leaves and probably some roll center adjusters to keep the geometry all in step.

Old clutch hole filled, bogged and painted. Looks good from the engine bay side. OK from the interior side, but you can't see that with the dash in anyway. I keep stopping to decide whether to do an OK job, or a really good job taking longer. At the moment I think I just want to get to some events as soon as possible so I'm not going to get carried away. Pedal box is reassembled and installed. Clutch slave is in and some of the dash is back in. I'm still trying to remember where everything goes, but it seems simple enough. Next I need to test whether my dodgy fix on the heater core is any good. If it's not I'll have to get it fixed or deleted. Also trying to decide what to do with the dash pad. It's cracked and crap looking. I'd love to paint or flock it, but it may just go straight back in for the moment so I can concentrate on the engine bay. I began cleaning up the brake master. It's all rusty and horrible looking, so I'll finish that off shortly so it can go in. Tried to take a pic, but my phone was being a sh!t. Maybe next time. I also need to work out where to run the ECU cabling.

That thing is awesome, love it!

And then? :)

Video link? :) Thing looks awesome, nice work! You must be pretty happy :)

The thing I really need it a baby sitter! :) My only real problem is time with a 1 and 3 year old boys. Still, they won't be this age forever and it's a bunch of fun :) Still, last night I managed to get paint onto the firewall. I just need to plate the old clutch hole and then I'll put the dash back in. I'll get some pics when I can.