snot35

Sure, I think the explanation was probably along the lines of, given the incredibly high voltage and the resistance caused by the other components of the system, dropping a few k (resistance, not money ;) ) in the wires really isn't money well spent. As you say, it all either works, or it doesn't.

I dug out a HEC715 recently, can check for markings if you like. My old man always used to tell me the resistance of plug leads wasn't that crucial, but I can't remember why. He's an electronics guy, so it probably made sense. Also, a few people a while back were doing elec conversions with an aftermarket setup, was it hotspark or something? Might be worth talking about that as K parts get rarer.

Yeah, I don't think it's fuel pump either, but I'm grasping at straws too so I'm trying to eliminate as much as possible. You could be right about the injector drives. I thought that relay was OK, but it's getting hot. The same was occurring for the thermo fan relay. I hope to put aside some time on the weekend, but it's going to be 41 and 39, so it'll really test my enthusiasm! :)

It wouldn't have long enough to get warm, but I haven't checked. I did a bunch of troubleshooting last week, short of starting it because it was a little late at night. I went through the diagnostics manual with the multimeter and tested everything. So far, nothing stood out as being dodgy. Right resistance on the injectors and temp sensors, coil is OK and all the right voltages are at the ECU pins for firing up the fuel pump, injectors etc. I did notice the ECU relay does get quite hot. I'm not sure if this is normal? Also I got stuck trying to find engine main relay no. 2. I'm not sure where this is in an AE82. I suspect it's one of the two by the accelerator pedal. I tried to test these and couldn't make sense of it. It seems that they aren't getting power, but the ECU and everything else is, so I'm guessing I haven't correctly identified it all. The fuel pressure line does go quite hard when I jumped the fuel pump test. I've bought a new filter just in case, but it isn't yet fitted. The belt is in. I need to attempt some more starts on the weekend. Any recommendations for how to test fuel pressure boosted?

TEO is mostly back together as of about 11 last night. I didn't want to carry on trying to start an uncooperative car so I moved to the shed and started cleaning up the tie rods I picked up. I'll clean them up and get the cross member all back together and into the car so at least I feel like I'm making progress!

Right, new timing belt is in. It hasn't made as much difference as I thought it would, I'm still not totally happy with where the dizzy is going in. I'm starting to brain storm about what else it could be. Given it starts nicely then stops, then subsequent restarts get harder and harder, I'm thinking maybe it's a clogged fuel filter? I don't have a pressure gauge, anyone got any good tricks for how I would check it? I'll try starting it again on the weekend and see what we get.

Never used to like Aussie muscle. Lately, I've found myself changing my mind! Get into it! :)

So I've ordered a new timing belt for TEO (The Evil One, the twinky that won't start). I should be getting that tomorrow. Hopefully I can then time it, reassemble and get it to start to I can move on. Cleaned the shed the other night, so hopefully that will allow me to be more productive!

Looks like plasticine to me!

I was going to say O2 sensor as well, sounds like things are occurring closed loop ranges. Does it feel fine under wide open throttle? Regarding the speed sensor, the speedo in the dash cluster has an output that plugs into the ECU to provide the speed. You'd have to transplant a speedo from a twin cam corolla or work out some other way of generating a signal. I'm pretty sure many people have run without speed input to the ECU without any problems.

hehehe, always the way! I was maneuvering mine last night to get all the necessary bits off, some of which included lifting the motor with a jack to clear a breaker bar. This morning I walk out and there's a lovely stream of oil out the bottom going down the drive way. I've obviously dislodged something. F&$#ing car! :) Not as bad as a snapped bolt but...

God I hate working on FWD cars, did I mention that? I'm struggling to see how this car ran given how shot the timing belt seems to be. Following the book it seems impossible to get everything to line up as the Toyota gods intended. I'll see if I can pick up a new belt in the next couple of days and fit it. Current problem is removing the harmonic balancer. I think I'm going to like working on this motor when it's in the KE70.

My time is currently going into getting the donor car going: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69731-car-no-start-ae82-twinky/ Why I thought it was going to be a quick job, I don't know! :) Loose timing belts and a lack of proper coolant use makes me worry about the condition of the donor. I'll press on and try to get it going so I can work out the condition. Otherwise the hunt may be on for another.

I wish my 4AG was currently that tidy! :)

Yeah I have a bit of experience with belts, it definitely doesn't seem right. The belt looks a bit rough, and I'm pretty confident that the 2kg for 4mm deflection or whatever the manual states has been surpassed.

Cheers, I've got the 4AGE and diagnostic manual, so I'm working them through. Haven't quite got the cam covers off yet, but that's what I'm working towards. There's so much slack in the belt that it all moves about when I'm trying to align things, so I think I need to get rid of that or I'm just going to be chasing my tail continually. I can't wait to get this in RWD format, working on the front of FWD motors sucks!

Yeah, you said that before, I didn't listen!! I feel like a bit of a nonce for spending a couple of hours heading in the wrong direction on that one. At least I know the TPS is OK! :) Thanks all for the help, even when I'm being unintentionally uncooperative ;)

I've just had a thought, I think I'm doing it wrong. I should be checking the alignment at the rotor, not the pickup, because that would need to trigger the ignitor and coil well before the spark is needed! There's me over thinking things :) I'll try and get out for another go a little later.....

I've been slotting and reslotting the dizzy for far too long! I'm trying to align it so that one of the points of the star for the trigger is aligned with the pick up. No matter how much I adjust the initial alignment when I put it in, it rotates too far, so it either won't line up, or is right at the edge of adjustment. This is either aligning it at TDC or 10 degrees. The rotor is also aligning at what I would consider to be a weird spot, being too far through rotation. It doesn't quite make sense at the moment! The dizzy shaft is all one piece isn't it on 4AGEs? It seems like something has rotated.

So I've checked the TPS, all readings came out fine. I'm wrestling with timing though. If I align the marks on the distributor and install it, it's impossible for me to time it properly. I can get it to 10 degrees manually timed, but this is pretty much near the limit of the travel of the distributor, so something just isn't right. The cams seem reasonably aligned, it certainly doesn't look like the exhaust cam is out by a tooth or anything like that. I did notice that the belt really seems looser than it should be. I'm not sure if that has a bearing when everything seems to align easily enough. I'll take the covers off and have a look, but it all seems quite weird.

They are. It actually runs sweet first try for a few seconds then dies. If I hit any throttle it definitely dies. Second retry it will catch a little but not stay going, third is near impossible. I'm not giving it throttle normally, so I'm not flooding it, but it does seem like it's getting flooded. I know what you're talking about boosted, I saw that part in one of the links above which shows testing the TPS in the diagnosis manual. The first small movement stays in range of a switch, then the rest of the range outputs proper throttle signal. I ran out of energy to test it last night, I'll keep at it and work through the manual, I'm just hoping if I post here someone will have a bright idea and help me short cut the process a bit :)

How often do you come across variations in the chamber depths? I can't say I noticed it on my spare head, but I didn't look closely either.

From my research when I was looking into Dellorto's, people just don't understand how to jet the pollution carbs, it's different to the non pollution carbs, so people tend to give up. I've got a book about Weber and Dellorto tuning somewhere that does talk about the F and G carbs, PM me your email and I'll see if I can dig it up. I'd probably use the carbs that are in the best condition as a base... Some details here: http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2694&sid=e55b4c4ef1e0c12790914d42697e06b9 https://elthamracing.wordpress.com/2010/02/14/jetting/ I used to have a really good link on KP61.net that was K motor specific, but that site seems to have vanished. The general gist seems to be, don't tune the idle circuit like a normal circuit.

Personally, I'd mock it up and check how the rockers wipe the pads on top of the valve. There's no substitute for actually checking.

Formula Ford are 13", or at least, used to be. As are Formula 3, if you want to go completely nuts! I think the width of the rears may be a bit wide, but not sure.