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snot35

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Everything posted by snot35

  1. Pedal box mostly in, just need to get a hole saw of the right size to install the clutch slave. Clutch slave still needs painting though and I'm finding everything in my shed is rusting at the moment, so I'm rushing around trying to clean and oil everything :/
  2. Damn, at least you got a cool photo out of it!
  3. I'm getting tired of complimenting this project. But I am using it as inspiration for my 4AGE conversion/khana car. Now you've added years to my project. Thanks, thanks a lot! :)
  4. Excellent suggestions. I was only checking fuses by sight, but they're fair points. When this weather clears, I'll get into it :)
  5. 'Cause assault always helps in these situations :) Good no one was hurt. Sorry your ride is smooshed. Hopefully the insurance pays out nicely and you can buy it back for peanuts and take all the good bits off!
  6. No such luck on previous knowledge. I bought it cheap as it didn't work. The guy claimed it had been running just the week before. The battery doesn't seem to hold charge particularly well, so Hiro's suggestion could be a good one. I was just surprised it almost meant no dash lights. Haven't tried again with it yet. It's been too cold and wet to work on cars outside :)
  7. Dash came completely out last night so I could do a good job of aligning the pedal box. Took off a bit of the firewall tar that I couldn't get to previously, but it's still quite sticky, which is annoying! Now, onto drilling some holes and putting in the pedal box and doing the remainder of the tar :)
  8. I'll sort photos later, but pedal box is out. Brake master, booster, valve and lines are out. Bit of scrubbing has been done and it looks nicer. A few sundries are still attached to the front end, but they'll come off soon and I'll start sorting all the bolts etc. so they end up back in the right spots. It's so tempting to get carried away, but I'm trying to make sure the car gets back on the road sooner rather than later. It will still take a while. I am debating sourcing a new dash pad though, the old one is terrible. Trying not to get too carried away with tidying up the cockpit just yet. I need a session on the wire wheel before doing some painting, but I need to coordinate that with the wife. That sort of thing always takes longer :P
  9. Not sure if there is a specific fuse, but you should be able to jumper the blower motor straight to any 12V source to check it.
  10. LOL Mechanical Sympathy
  11. So, it's on like Donkey Kong! Last night was a productive night. Guards are off, cross member and most of the suspension is out and the engine bay is nearly stripped. Being a Khana car there is dirt everywhere and a bit of rust around the place that has always bugged me. The intention is to scrub it all, paint bits that need painting before putting in the 4AGE. I also took a bit of time to start familiarising myself with the KE70 wiring loom so that I can do a tidy install when the 4AGE goes in. After the frenzy, this is what I'm left with: Pedal box is also done, just needs assembly. And just 'cause I could never find it when I searched, some pictures of the cross member, narrow mounts are for K motor, wide for A motor. I'm also debating doing some seam welding while it's all apart. The only problem is the shed is a little close to the house, so I have to be judicious with the power tools when I work, which is at night when everyone is asleep. I'll work something out :)
  12. Cheers. I'll try a jump start. I don't think I've ever come across a car that won't even light the dash. This is with the battery straight off the charger before trying to start. Maybe that has thrown me. No harm in trying to jump start. Clutch start isn't an option, it's at the bottom of a hill :)
  13. Not yet, starter is buried under the exhaust manifold and not easy to get to. Initial thoughts are that it's something else as I don't have dash lights, but I suppose it could be more than one problem.
  14. Gentlemen, I'm hoping some brains can help me out with where to look. I have a late AE82 Twin Cam Seca which has an electrical problem. When hooked up I get no dash lights and it doesn't turn over. I don't think the starter solenoid even clunks. Battery voltage is reasonable. I can find 12V at the coil and most of the spots I've tried on the fuse/relay box in the engine bay seem to have power. All fuses are OK. The EFI fuse was blown in the engine bay, but has been replaced. The fuses in the driver's kick panel are OK too. Any particular spots I should check to expedite the process? I've got some wiring diagrams downloaded which I will follow through, it's just a question of getting the time to do it. It's annoying, as this is a late Seca the wiring is different the the earlier Twin Cams. It seems to be more like an AE93 with the fusible links etc. Thanks Mike
  15. Wow, no updates for over a year. Time has been precious with two young boys. The 70 has been parked for quite some time. In that time though, I've come across a few bargains which has meant that I've changed direction. The original plan was to refit a 4K and keep going. It would be the cheapest option. I even had the 4K ready to go. Of course, waiting in the wings is a bunch of stuff from an AE71 that I stripped, so there was always the temptation to go 4AGE. Then a block came up. From a JDM AE86, for $300. It had been starved of oil and had chucked a rod, but came with everything, including a gearbox. I decided to grab it, so that the RWD conversion would be easy, I could just grab a FWD big port and swap it. Brought it home and found that it also had a Toda chromoly flywheel and 3 puck clutch on it. Score! So now I have a spare set of engine stays etc. and a spare gearbox. It seemed prudent to go down the 4AGE path. The hunt then began. Eventually I scored a series 3 AE82 Seca with a red and black top in it. It currently doesn't start, but I've been assured that it does. It was a bit of a punt to grab a car that doesn't start, so I can't check engine condition, but it meant I got it for cheap. So now work begins. It's going to be slow, I only seem to get into the shed on week nights after 9:30 and my use of power tools is a bit limited. I haven't been able to work out what's wrong with the Seca yet. There were some blown fuses which I replaced. All fuse able links seem fine and when there is power the EFI relays seem to clunk, but no dash lights and no start. Over the past week I stripped the pedal box and started painting it to get the conversion going. I also picked up a Bosch 070 on the weekend. All I need now apart from sundries is a radiator (still have the KE70, but it's pretty rough) and a lift pump. Here's last nights effort etch primed. I'm not sure why these are bare metal from factory...
  16. Back out! Nice, that must be a good feeling :)
  17. Well that's a milestone, nice! :y:
  18. Coming together nicely :)
  19. By short motor, do you mean you have a block with the head and nothing else? If you have the head, other bolt on's should work well. If it's missing the head I probably wouldn't bother, as there are some pretty major differences between 4K and 5K setups (generally) in that regard. e.g. push rods and rockers may not be compatible. Have a decent search through this forum, there is plenty of detail in here about the differences.
  20. So what's going in it?
  21. Sweet, I'll be watching this.
  22. That's rallying I guess. I look forward to seeing the replacement!
  23. Rocks, bottoming out, bottoming out on rocks, rough landings....
  24. No, the pitch on the steering arms is the same as the pitch on AE86 struts. I'm running AE86 power steering arms with series 3 TE72 struts. It doesn't directly translate, the T stuff is generally a bit bigger. To put my struts in to my KE70 I had to swap the top hats on the struts to the KE70 ones, as the TE72 ones messed up the castor. Thinking about it, unless you're getting the JDM AE86 brakes or wanting to do a brake upgrade there probably isn't much point in putting in AE86 struts. The wheel bearings and discs are roughly the same size, so it won't really be an upgrade. The TE72 has the larger diameter struts, so you can put good shocks in it, unlike the KE70. You've also got the good diff (T diff). A lot of it translates reasonably well between KE70, TE72 and AE86, but there are often minor differences. Search and ask questions about what you want to do. A lot of it has been done before :)
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